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Discussion Starter #22
I'm not super worried about the IMRC, I'll likely rig it to be the short runner position and let the turbo do it's thing.
I got the VCT delete on and cam timing done. I set the gear to 10* off and rotated it back to 0 so that the top of the cam lobes pointed at each other/180* out. I'm not sure if that's correct or if it should go another degree or not, hard to eyeball past where I have it, not wanting to check it on the crank shaft but I may have to.

Should get out of work a little early so I'll pull the 6 speed off and probably list it for sale on facebook market place or here. Don't want to deal with it without cables or shifter for it, must've left it in the donor car or got lost in the move.
Shouldn't be hard to pull the tranny out, I think its like 13 bolts or so? I'll probably drain the liquids out of the blow motor, put it on stands and start taking it apart. We'll see how far I get
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Didnt get out as early as I thought. Only got the trans off
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Friday and Saturday should be the big days to get this thing running proper again. Before I go to bed today I'm gonna pull the fuel rail, injectors and harness of the blown motor and hook it up to the ST170/SVT motor. If time allows before I passout, I'll drain the fluids and disconnect the harnesses and plumbing in the car.
Did a little research on the Cam timing, it seems like the general consensus is 12* of cam timing advance. I'll fix that too.

For anyone who would care about a SVT swapped - VCT deleted - Zetec MTX & ECU'd - boosted tune, I can post a modifiable tune file on here once I get it going well enough. It will still require you to get the SCT Pro-Racer software, the X4 and a little button clicking to get the car to start. While adaptive learning could probably compensate for your locality I would not recommend uploading it to your car and hitting the road without at-least a little datalogging and fine tuning on your end. I would also not recommend trying this unless you have a decent understanding of how a motor works and how the ECU interacts with said motor. There is at least a couple decent series on youtube to help you understand before you jump off the deep end, I'll provide one that isn't bad to start with in the future. I would highly recommend getting a SCT Pro-Racer 'guide book' of the sorts, I personally used Don LaSota's book; YMMV and proceed at your own risk. I'm sure there are better books out there but I'm cheap and it fit the bill.

If you're unsure about any of it, there are always tuners out there willing to help you out. Tom (1turbofocus) is one of them, and there plenty of other fish in the sea to choose from.

Should I give the tune away for free, I'll also provide a datalog to go with it. It'll help you decide if you really wanna trust some stranger on the internet with your, albeit cheap and easily replaceable, motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #25



USDM harness and injectors all set to go the ST170 motor, gotta splice the coolant temp sensor and its all plugged in and ready to go.

Still have to swap the clutch and flywheel over and mate the MTX75 trans before its really ready for its new home. Should be fun!
I'll pull apart the EDM zetec motor and see what went wrong tomorrow/ASAP
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Harness is complete, I spliced the water temp sensor into the USDM one and although it's not required I lengthened the oil pressure sensor. Everything else on the Engine harness bolts into the ST170/SVT motor with the Zetec rail and injectors. I also swapped the pans and installed the oil feed on the block; I'm sure there is other small stuff I did but I just don't remember it, I think some coolany hose stuff was put on the motor? Who knows....

I also removed the Zetec clutch to swap it onto the ST170/SVT motor, lots of hot spots and the disc itself looks low to me. If I have to get them turned, I was wondering if there were any benefits to using the SVT/ST170 flywheel. I could weigh them and see if there are any weight differences but since I'm at work at the moment does anyone know if there is any reason it wouldn't work? They both clearly bolt on to each other and the only differences I see are on the clutch discs are the spline counts; pressure plates look identical as well.

I'll probably get a new disc from autozone/rockauto/whatever and send it assuming flywheels are interchangeable.

EDIT: no point to the ST170 flywheel, did a little research and it turns out dual mass flywheels are not as good as single mass flywheels for performance. I'd like to get this car on NCCR or VIR a few times this year and a single mass flywheel just fits the bill better. Also, replacements are 5x cheaper
 

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Discussion Starter #27
More clutch numbers...

For reference zetec and SVT flywheels/pressure plates must match, can't get around that one BUT the discs are where things get interesting.

At its highest point, the 'snout' of the spline hole, the zetec disc is 5mm taller than the SVT disc. I dont think this is a big deal if you want to use an SVT flywheel(fw from now on)/pressure plate (pp from now on, childish yes but it works) onto a Zetec disc and trans. Just more for the input shaft to grab onto.

Might be an issue using a zetec fw/pp on an SVT disc and trans;less input shaft to grab onto. That said I doubt 5mm is really going to be a big deal when the input shaft has to go thru the disc, into the crankshaft anyways. I'd run it if I were u, it's probably a moot point either way.

Disc similarities are the diameter, both just shy of 9" like a 1.5mm short.
From flywheel snout end to friction disc is identical both at 12mm.
Same with friction pad depth, both were iirc 28mm?
Both discs sandwich inbetween each others fw and pp the same as far as eyeballing it goes. SVT into zetec slightly easier and zetec into SVT slightly snug-er. No contact that shouldn't be there though.


Guy at clutch masters says only CM clutches will work with their light weight flywheel for the SVT. Not sure if I believe them yet so I bought a used one for $60 shipped. He says it's a conversion one so only CM clutches will work; I'm pressing "x" to doubt and will verify with the stock stuff here. I bet one if them fit just fine
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Good to see you are still tinkering with the ol girl.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Been tinkering with her on and off. Just haven't returned to the forum in awhile. Getting a little more into IG, more so than Facebook but still trying to limit time online.

Im sure once this project is done and I don't need a venue to write out long drawn out thoughts for the sake of the project I'll probably disappear again unfortunately.

Every forum I've joined for the cars I've had over the past 5 years has been dead. Turbo bricks and GRM are the only exceptions to that...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So clutch masters flywheel must go with clutch masters pressure plate.

You MIGHT be able to get away using your own disc. The friction surface is only a couple mm wider than the disc on a normal focus, which is good I think. Clutch masters fly wheel is essentially a SVT disc with those springs on it, smaller diameter disc but wider friction pad.

Also, slammed SVT motor into the car today, tried to start it but no start. The motor makes odd, deep thumping noises when cranking. I think I may have screwed up the cam timing on the car, which sucks because it's way easier to do it with the motor out of the car.

Almost, I'm awfully close
 

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Discussion Starter #31
found a PDF link on here for setting cam timing on a SVT motors. I definitely screwed it up. i guess you're supposed to loosen the cam bolts when you put the belt on and I did not. I can almost guarantee that when i put the belt on the crank rotated a little bit to get the belt to fit.

UGH, this is something that I easily shouldve researched first.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
It runs! sorta...

just want to verify, per this thread, that Retarding the cam is counter clockwise and Advancing the cam is clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It runs! It works!


Some splicing of wires, Zetec ECU/harness/Flywheel & clutch assembly, MTX75, Adj Cam gears, VCT delete and I stole the front cover off the SVT to retain my Zetec poly mount.

I still need a coolant hose, brake booster line and fluids for the gearbox and cooling system. Other than that, its tune and drive!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So, I did the SVT head swap like Ive seen on iminhells thread but my ECU is not reading anything from it. Just -40* the entire time, I'm sure I have a CEL for it but with all the missing sensors I have yet to run through them all.

Is there something specific I need to get it working or does my wiring suck and i just need to redo it?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
continuity shows fine, but it starts at like 70* F and then drops to -40* F little confused on that one
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Sounds like it is wired backwards.
what i thought, havent changed it yet tho lol

working on it idling at 3k more often than 1k.... not sure about that one either
 

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Discussion Starter #38
also, revs hang really really bad sitting here at idle. im about to go to a church parking lot or something and get this going a little better away from my neighbors
 

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Discussion Starter #39
maiden voyage the car made last night ended in a dead fuel pump; it just didnt want to prime very well.
normally you can hear the car prime at a normal volume, last night it was extremely quiet and the car wouldnt start at a 7-11 we stopped at to get starter fluid looking for a vacuum leak. But if you wanted to turn the car on and off a whole bunch and faux prime it, it would start and run only for a short period.
Dang it!!! Car is sooo sooo close


 
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