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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I have a 2005 ZX4 with the 2.0L. So I've got the "swirl flaps of death" problem. The engine was making a pretty bad ticking noise, so after some research it turned out to be the swirl flaps that are in the intake runners.

So I got the intake off the car, and the swirl flaps are out. They were indeed screwed. So how exactly, can I put it back together without them? I've read a few threads here, where people say you need to epoxy up the holes after you remove the swirl flaps.

So is there anything else? What is the procedure to do this without getting any check engine codes? I can't really afford to purchase a new intake, and it does seem like a lot of people just remove the swirl flaps and never look back.
 

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Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using FF Mobile
Nope, the dtec's have them...Basically to swirl/tumble the air going into the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here is a pic of the engine. I assume its the DOHC model. I didn't know there were 2 models of the 2.0L. I thought there was only one for 2005. Is the procedure different for the different models? Would it matter about how to delete the swirl flaps?
 

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Old Phart
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There's only one engine for the 2005 focus in the USA/Canada, and it's the DOHC Duratec engine.

Take a look at the long bumps in front & behind the spark plug coils, those cover the two cams.

You can leave the actuator operational to avoid codes, holes that need to be plugged are any that lead to the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold (vacuum leaks).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah sorry I meant DOHC. Went back and edited the post to say DOHC.

But thanks to all for the replies. So basically all you do, is seal up all the holes, between each intake runner. Then plug everything back up, like normal.

I was curious about leaving the actuator operation... without it having anything to be able to "actuate". Essentially it can't tell if its actually doing anything, it will just try to move the rod and nothing will happen. Do I have this right so far?

Also, one of my "inserts" (as per the how to guide in the link) crumbled into bits as I was taking it out. Another cracked. I was being careful, I know better than to strong arm stuff like this. But, i guess they had just seen too many heat cycles. Do I have to use the inserts? Given the way I've seen some other manifolds mate up to other engines over the years, I would assume that the answer is no. That you do not actually need those inserts that used to hold onto the flaps. Some manifolds just don't really seem to care about an ultra smooth transition. But I just thought I'd ask.
 

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You'd want to leave the actuator working, as you'll have no cel & its not hurting anything. Like Sailor mentioned above, you'd want to plug all the holes that go to the outside such as the actuator linkage on the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. You've all been a very big help. I have to say that I was quite relieved to find out that this noise wasn't something wrong with the head.
 

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Try removing the vacuum line going to the actuator, which is right below the t/b & see if you like the throttle response or not. Say how many miles are on your car?
 

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Old Phart
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And the internal ones where the rod goes through.
I actually doubt that would be a problem, as long as they don't lead to an external air source.

Yamaha used a cross drilled tube in the head for balancing vacuum between intake ports on 4 cyl. engines for a number of years, most effective at/near idle. A block off tool was needed for tune up work when balancing carbs/throttle bodies to get accurate individual readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Try removing the vacuum line going to the actuator, which is right below the t/b & see if you like the throttle response or not. Say how many miles are on your car?

156k miles on the odometer

Didn't know about removing the vacuum line lol.
 

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156k miles on the odometer

Didn't know about removing the vacuum line lol.
It'd be so much easier to remove & plug the vacuum line going to the actuator to see how you like the throttle response vs removing the i/m.
 

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Ok! Sooo, let me get this straight. Regular, old "JB Weld" which is made for metal, is used to fill holes in some sort of plastic???!! It actually bonds?? That doesn't seem any safer than having those pieces of metal and plastic that can break apart and destroy your engine. Wouldn't you want to use a epoxy made for plastic??! I have been, briefly, looking into doing this and can't really find any defanite answer on what type of plastic is used, but I still don't see how a agent made to bond metal will bond to the plastic safely.
Correct me if I'm wrong!! Was looking at the "JB Plastic Bond". ?????
 

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Ok! Sooo, let me get this straight. Regular, old "JB Weld" which is made for metal, is used to fill holes in some sort of plastic???!! It actually bonds?? That doesn't seem any safer than having those pieces of metal and plastic that can break apart and destroy your engine. Wouldn't you want to use a epoxy made for plastic??! I have been, briefly, looking into doing this and can't really find any defanite answer on what type of plastic is used, but I still don't see how a agent made to bond metal will bond to the plastic safely.
Correct me if I'm wrong!! Was looking at the "JB Plastic Bond". ?????
You could remove the flaps only and reinstall the rod and actuator. The rod will rotate, but there will be no flaps. You won't have to epoxy anything this way
 

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You could remove the flaps only and reinstall the rod and actuator. The rod will rotate, but there will be no flaps. You won't have to epoxy anything this way
Duh! I didnt think of that! Then, also, if ant of the parts are worn or if I break something too where theres gap I could just fill that. Much less to worry about. Ingestion wise anyways. LOL

But the question still remains! Will proper prep with o.g. jb weld hold under pressure and vibration on plastic??
 
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