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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This will apply to 2001-2006 ZX3s
This is for the drivers side & took me about 2 hours. Got new regulator for $69 plus shipping



Follow these instructions for door panel removal.

Unscrew speaker and then unplug.

Take out Door Latch: The screw hole is a tab that will pull out the back of the plate has an l shaped tab

Take out the crash foam It's on hooks it sort of lifts up and back

Carefully use a utilty knife to peal back the moisture barrier. It's very easy to tear.

Once you have that off here's what you have

the numbers refer to the Images below

Position the window so that the rear rail screw is accesable and secure with tape
Image 1



Reposition the window so that the front rail screw is accesable and secure with tape
Image 2



Pull out window from the exterior side of the door
it will come out at an angle front side down


Unscrew the 5 bolts of the regulator

Image 3



Pull out the regulator


Install new regulator



Put back in window it will go in at an angle front side down
Put back the moisture barrier
Put back Door latch
Screw in speaker and then replug.
Reinstall crash foam
Put back panel
 

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Not too shabby. Sending the link to Chad (S2) to add to the FAQ. Thanks for the effort, it is quite appreciated, rep'd.
 

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FWIW....I've done this exact job on many different cars. It's really not necessary to remove the window itself. You lower the window far enough to remove the screws/bolts (usually just two) that hold the window to the regulator. Then you push the window upward in it's tracks by hand. Wrap several pieces of long duct tape around the top of the window frame attached to both sides of the window (to keep it from falling down while you're working).

This simplifies the operation, and avoids possible scratching of the window or the door frame.

If the window regulator is hopelessly jammed, you may not be able to get the window far enough down to get to the attachment bolts. In that case you may need to cut the control cables.

A while back, Nissan had a massive recall of all the regulators on several models. They paid the mechanic about 1.4 hrs labor time to do all four doors. I got pretty good at that......[mad]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Bluefront
I'd add that as an alternate
I was going to tape it up, but the window was pretty wobbly
It only took a minute to take out and 3 to put back

You could probalby do this in your sleep...but then again i only did one[:)~]
 

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helpp

Hello, im new here.. ive been looking for a window regulator! i need the passenger side! i couldnt find the same one as in the picture! i know this is and old topic. I want to ask where did you get that window regulator?
 

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Nice write up, I had to do this blind. BUT one problem I had that you did not adress, is running the new wiring into the car, they use these stupid plastic modular connectors in the door, so ya have to drill new holes. I have the tracks and motors in but havent ran the wires yet. I cant open the doors all the way in my small garage. lol. :(
 

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Nice write up, I had to do this blind. BUT one problem I had that you did not adress, is running the new wiring into the car, they use these stupid plastic modular connectors in the door, so ya have to drill new holes. I have the tracks and motors in but havent ran the wires yet. I cant open the doors all the way in my small garage. lol. :(
doing the same thing... did you find some info on how to wire it up? i got all the goodies from a DOA foci and i am going to transplant.
 

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No I still havent gotten to it, just finished all the chasis. it shouldnt be to difficult, most of the wires were on harness's and you just unplugged them, helps to label them with tape, the only cut wires you would have to adress are the ones going in the door, so just reconnect them. Sounds easier then it is I know but, hope that helps.
 

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Symptoms for failed Power Window Regulator???

Hello, can you tell me what the symptoms are? My drivers side window will not open, the motor runs and it moves up and down half an inch and makes a grinding noise. Seems like the regulator could be frozen or broken but I do not want to do all this work if there is an easier fix. Thanks! My car has 100K miles and is a 2001 model.
 

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You have the symptoms.....................cable has derailed and locked up the works.
 

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just wondering, can you give more details about removing the door latch, can't get it off, grrrr.... [mecry]

Thanks!
I see the quote is 3 plus years old but wanted to share what I learned last night when replacing my drivers door window regulator. Like jongun78, I was puzzled on how to remove the inside door handle assembly from the door frame. You can Pull & Wiggle & Snap the assembly off the door and you might or might not break it in the process. I found a smarter method. After the interior door panel has been removed... Using a medium/heavy duty hemostat, I was able to reach into the slot where the window glass slides into and Pinch the plastic tab/prong that is securing the door handle onto the door. Once the prong was squeezed by the hemostat, I Pulled, Wiggled, Snapped the handle assembly off of the door frame. If that one little plastic prong gets broken your screwed.

Thank you to the OP for this how-to thread. I also used the link below to help me learn how to do this job. This was my first time doing a window regulator. After a month of driving with a broken window regulator, I am so happy to have my power window working again.

I bought a XW4Z-54234A44-AA "spacer" in advance but oddly never saw where it was used. Never really looked for it. Strange. Realized
I missed or forgot about it only after the job was done.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/206251168/Ford-Focus-Window-Regulator-Replacement
 

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The spacer is used on rear glass only, it attaches differently to the regulator than front one with the two white plastic grabber clips. Glass has a hole, spacer goes in it and then a plastic expander pin into the center to expand it out tight.

The Scribd document is for a REAR window but the basics are the same except for the glass attachment.
 

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The spacer is used on rear glass only
Ah dang-it, I shoulda caught that before. Thank you for the info. Bought it at my local Ford dealer, so will return this small spacer and get 16 bucks back. If it weighed 1 pound, I guess it might sell for $1,600.00 or more. -jk I accepted prices on Ford (+GM +others) parts long ago, no complaints from me... so I bought a Dorman window regulator.

Thanks again, Cheers!
 

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Hey I'm still cussing over the last snap ring I bought from them.........$15 for THAT???!!

The Dorman part virtually the same as Ford but without the oval stamped on it and the Ford one breaks as quick........easy $50 savings there and Ford gives no lifetime warranty like over the counter does. One of the few parts you should keep the receipt on, they break more than once. I've been through like 5 now on two cars, even went to rebuilding the broken ones. The unobtanium part (Ebay only) is the two window clips that commonly break. One is same as manual window one but the other is different and power only. The manual one can easily be found at the scrapyard as they don't break, it is the power motor running window up/down till it hits hard that breaks them. If you train yourself to not bash them hard they then last much longer, I barely kiss them nowadays and never go down 100% to bottom either.
 

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I see the quote is 3 plus years old but wanted to share what I learned last night when replacing my drivers door window regulator. Like jongun78, I was puzzled on how to remove the inside door handle assembly from the door frame. You can Pull & Wiggle & Snap the assembly off the door and you might or might not break it in the process. I found a smarter method. After the interior door panel has been removed... Using a medium/heavy duty hemostat, I was able to reach into the slot where the window glass slides into and Pinch the plastic tab/prong that is securing the door handle onto the door. Once the prong was squeezed by the hemostat, I Pulled, Wiggled, Snapped the handle assembly off of the door frame. If that one little plastic prong gets broken your screwed.

Thank you to the OP for this how-to thread. I also used the link below to help me learn how to do this job. This was my first time doing a window regulator. After a month of driving with a broken window regulator, I am so happy to have my power window working again.

I bought a XW4Z-54234A44-AA "spacer" in advance but oddly never saw where it was used. Never really looked for it. Strange. Realized
I missed or forgot about it only after the job was done.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/206251168/Ford-Focus-Window-Regulator-Replacement
Why would you want to remove the door handle?
 

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Can't get door panel off without doing it.

BTW, proper handle assembly popping loose at least on the earlier models is...rotate FRONT of assembly out and toward centerline of car, then once front is popped loose go forward to unhook the back.
 

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Why would you want to remove the door handle?
I guess you are saying that the (drivers) regulator can be replaced without disconnecting the door handle assembly from the door frame? Maybe it can? Do you know that I am talking about the handle that is on the inside of the car?

This thread shows it removed. It was in my way when removing the delicate moisture barrier foam. I got the moisture barrier *removed without tearing it, but if the door handle stays on the door, you must tear it... at least on my car.

* = not fully removed, just peeled it fully forward, leaving one edge still connected.
 

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Can't get door panel off without doing it.
Not on mine. Panel comes off while door handle is fully attached onto the door frame.

The small accessory panel that holds the door lock switch and power window controls must be removed first, and then wiggled around the door handle... and then the door panel can be removed.
 
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