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Discussion Starter #41
Not good, you'll have terrible tire wear and a squirrely ride. Change the entire sub-frame, and then you can cut the arms off and you can compare them to see which need replacing. Just be careful to soak the body bolts real well, and remove them carefully... even in Arkansas they must be getting kind of thin down by the bolt head.


Can you explain your reasoning/answer?


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Grey Friar
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Not sure which part, but you've got positive camber and a huge amount of toe-in on one side of the rear... that will make the car jump to one side over certain bumps, and will cause that tire to rub along the ground and wear away at a high rate.

If it's the bolts you're wondering about, they rust. I replaced the stock sun-frame on my '02, with an FRPP adjustable one, in '09 (five years of salted highways in winter). The bolts were about half their normal diameter near the head when they came out. If I hadn't held the breaker bar real straight, I might have put too much sideways torque on a bolt and broke one. They were in there real tight (rusty) and a lot of pressure all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Not sure which part, but you've got positive camber and a huge amount of toe-in on one side of the rear... that will make the car jump to one side over certain bumps, and will cause that tire to rub along the ground and wear away at a high rate. .

Bingo. It does do that.



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Old Phart
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Agreed - good response!

That's just way beyond usable, and without obvious damage to arms the subframe is suspect. You showed one best section of it already - just couldn't tell from the picture if that bend affected the arm mounting point for the camber arm appreciably.

The whole section leading to that mounting point could be slightly bent for example, hard to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The shop that did the alignment was trying to push shims and kits on me to get it in order.
I said no.

Have to goto my local yard and find a donor. I've been interested in swapping the drums to rotors so hopefully I can find a car that has them.


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Old Phart
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Done right, with a base item that's NOT obviously damaged to the point of weakening it, you CAN make adjustments that way to get it operational.

Straight unit is OBVIOUSLY better.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Yeah I'd rather get the parts instead of patching It.


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Discussion Starter #48
FRPP stands for what?


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Discussion Starter #50
Ford Racing Performance Products

Aftermarket sheet from Ford


Thanks sailor. Your so helpful and informative.


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Grey Friar
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Hopefully the bend is not in the subframe. There are two attachment points for the toe arm and the camber arm that could be moved in such a way as to give exactly the kind of problem you are having. However, a visual inspection comparing one side to the other is all that should be required to decide if either of those places is the culprit.

If it's not a subframe issue, you'll know as soon as you get the new alignment specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I am thinking that the bend was elsewhere from the difficulty I had yesterday. The lower control arm had a bolt that was an absolute **** to remove and I never got it. Not the end where the alignment adjust is made-bolts to the rear subframe. I had my 15 and a cheater wrench on it and was warping the hell out of them putting all the ass I had into turning that bolt.
Could be there be other things that are bent? Absolutely. Like you said we'll know when I go get its alignment checked out.
 

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Grey Friar
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I had to cut off most of the bolts when I changed my subframe, and before that when I changed the RLCAs. The bolts get fused to the bushings from corrosion, and you can not break them loose. Be sure to use plenty of anti-seize when you put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Well my opposing statement is that not only my 05 but the 03 I took these parts off were easy to remove. All but the one bolt I've previously mentioned. Maybe it's the areas we live in. Anti-seize is a good idea but I've already put the car back together.

What are RLCA's?

Edit:

Googled it. RLCA = Rear Lower Control Arms.
 

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I am thinking that the bend was elsewhere from the difficulty I had yesterday. The lower control arm had a bolt that was an absolute **** to remove and I never got it. Not the end where the alignment adjust is made-bolts to the rear subframe. I had my 15 and a cheater wrench on it and was warping the hell out of them putting all the ass I had into turning that bolt.
Could be there be other things that are bent? Absolutely. Like you said we'll know when I go get its alignment checked out.
positive camber - possible reasons.
-the upper (banana) arm gets longer. it is curved to begin with, so it conceivable that it may straighten.
-lower control arm can bend to get shorter.
-bent spindle.

unlikely that the toe link bent, as that would cause toe in, but not change camber.
unlikely bent trailing arm because it bends on purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
positive camber - possible reasons.
-the upper (banana) arm gets longer. it is curved to begin with, so it conceivable that it may straighten.
-lower control arm can bend to get shorter.
-bent spindle
Good [hihi]. I replaced all those parts with parts from a donar from the u pick it.
 
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