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Won’t go into gear after clutch install

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2 weeks ago i replaced the clutch on my 07 ford focus 2.o. I assumed it needed a clutch. The batter light kept coming on and the clutch would stop working and eventually the car would die. This Burnt the clutch up??? So i replaced it. I couldn’t handle stabbing the transmission to the motor so i left that part to a friend. He over greased the throw out bearing. And by over greased i mean he put grease in the bleeder valve. The reasons why he thought hat was ok are less important than the outcome. The clutch slipped in every gear and never fully disengaged. I had no choice but to drive the car, and hope it would burn off and go back to normal. While driving home the other night suddenly i started losing power. Didn’t want to downshift and cause anymore glazing to the pressure plate than i have already done. When i got to the last light before the house i went to take off and I couldn’t put it into any gear. And there was a burnt smell. Not a pungent smell and not an overwhelming smell but burnt none the less. Parked the car waited for my husband to check it out in the morning. He snot a mechanic and hates working on cars.

Checked all cables, fuses, bled the clutch several times, still wont go into gear. When the car is turned off it will shift just fine. Not sure what to do now.
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So your friend mistook the bleeder valve as a grease fitting? That realistically may not even have been a big deal if it was bled correctly, brake fluid would probably flush it out reasonably well. Did it even get bled at all? The whole story sounds pretty silly in general but your current symptoms align with having a bad air gap in the clutch system somewhere.

If there's some sort of moly grease in the clutch system, I would be more worried about it seeping backwards into the reservoir. The brake and clutch reservoir are shared so there's a risk that the brake system is now contaminated as well.

Your friend ****** up.
 

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I don't see how the battery light or losing power is related to the clutch.
Regarding losing power, seems it may be another issue altogether. Does the car have the original air filter? Do you know when the spark plugs, and ignition coils were changed?
Also, in addition to air being in the lines, you may have a leak in one of the hydraulic lines or in the clutch master cylinder which prevents you from releasing the clutch. It can also be a flywheel issue The OE dual mass flywheels can start wobbling and make it difficult to shift into gear. The strange thing is that you say it is slipping in gears as well. Maybe the throwout bearing is stuck or there is a mismatch with the flywheel and clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, I decided to just redo the clutch altogether. I can’t be stuck without a car. Thank you for the responses. If I had taken it to a mechanic or done it myself with a Haynes or Chiltons manual I would be moving.
You were right about the backup of grease into the reservoir. No it wasn’t ever bled properly. So do I need to empty the reservoir? All fresh fluids?
I bought a Duralast clutch this time so hopefully it there was a problem with flywheel it won’t happen this time.
about the flywheel should I take fine sandpaper on rotary sander to it?
Thanks y’all!
oh ps. When I took the starter off this time I could see and smell the clutch remnants.Bad deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't see how the battery light or losing power is related to the clutch.
Regarding losing power, seems it may be another issue altogether. Does the car have the original air filter? Do you know when the spark plugs, and ignition coils were changed?
Also, in addition to air being in the lines, you may have a leak in one of the hydraulic lines or in the clutch master cylinder which prevents you from releasing the clutch. It can also be a flywheel issue The OE dual mass flywheels can start wobbling and make it difficult to shift into gear. The strange thing is that you say it is slipping in gears as well. Maybe the throwout bearing is stuck or there is a mismatch with the flywheel and clutch.
New throw out bearing. And I will not be letting anyone grease the bleeder this time!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So your friend mistook the bleeder valve as a grease fitting? That realistically may not even have been a big deal if it was bled correctly, brake fluid would probably flush it out reasonably well. Did it even get bled at all? The whole story sounds pretty silly in general but your current symptoms align with having a bad air gap in the clutch system somewhere.

If there's some sort of moly grease in the clutch system, I would be more worried about it seeping backwards into the reservoir. The brake and clutch reservoir are shared so there's a risk that the brake system is now contaminated as well.

Your friend ** up.
Friend fed up on more than just the bleeder valve. The axles were also in a bind. The boots both threw grease everywhere underneath the car. Not sure how to handle this yet. I pulled the drivers axle without much resistance however the passenger side is proving to be much more difficult. Any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't see how the battery light or losing power is related to the clutch.
Regarding losing power, seems it may be another issue altogether. Does the car have the original air filter? Do you know when the spark plugs, and ignition coils were changed?
Also, in addition to air being in the lines, you may have a leak in one of the hydraulic lines or in the clutch master cylinder which prevents you from releasing the clutch. It can also be a flywheel issue The OE dual mass flywheels can start wobbling and make it difficult to shift into gear. The strange thing is that you say it is slipping in gears as well. Maybe the throwout bearing is stuck or there is a mismatch with the flywheel and clutch.
The over greased throw out bearing wouldn’t cause the clutch to slip? I ignorantly had assumed that it would.
 

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Friend fed up on more than just the bleeder valve. The axles were also in a bind. The boots both threw grease everywhere underneath the car. Not sure how to handle this yet. I pulled the drivers axle without much resistance however the passenger side is proving to be much more difficult. Any advice?
The passenger axle and carrier bearing can all come out as a single piece. That's usually how I do it. Just unbolt the inner half bearing mount from the engine and it slips out, no snap ring. Why would the axles be leaking and throwing grease everywhere? Are the boots torn? They should have what look like metal zip ties holding the boots on.

I would definitely try to avoid using the brakes so as not to push any grease into them. Disconnect and take out the reservoir but be mindful to keep the lines upright so they don't drain. After cleaning out the reservoir really well I would for sure bleed the whole brake system really thoroughly and ensure that nice clean fluid is all that is in there. Same with the clutch master and slave system after it's back together.

If the flywheel is in rough shape, you might see if you can just have a machine shop resurface it. You'd need to call around probably, bigger napa depots have machine shops sometimes. Just follow your service manual exactly when reinstalling the clutch and transmission. Use locktight on the flywheel bolts. If you pulled the axles from the hubs, make sure you torque them correctly when you put it together. The torque spec is 199 foot-pounds. If you don't, you'll wreck your wheel bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The passenger axle and carrier bearing can all come out as a single piece. That's usually how I do it. Just unbolt the inner half bearing mount from the engine and it slips out, no snap ring. Why would the axles be leaking and throwing grease everywhere? Are the boots torn? They should have what look like metal zip ties holding the boots on.

I would definitely try to avoid using the brakes so as not to push any grease into them. Disconnect and take out the reservoir but be mindful to keep the lines upright so they don't drain. After cleaning out the reservoir really well I would for sure bleed the whole brake system really thoroughly and ensure that nice clean fluid is all that is in there. Same with the clutch master and slave system after it's back together.

If the flywheel is in rough shape, you might see if you can just have a machine shop resurface it. You'd need to call around probably, bigger napa depots have machine shops sometimes. Just follow your service manual exactly when reinstalling the clutch and transmission. Use locktight on the flywheel bolts. If you pulled the axles from the hubs, make sure you torque them correctly when you put it together. The torque spec is 199 foot-pounds. If you don't, you'll wreck your wheel bearings.
I replaced one boy when I did the clutch the first time. Maybe they were in a bind? It’sa mess under there.
 

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The over greased throw out bearing wouldn’t cause the clutch to slip? I ignorantly had assumed that it would.
I don't think the grease would get from inside the throwout bearing to the clutch. Maybe the grease is preventing the throwout bearing from releasing. You can maybe try checking the clutch pedal itself to see if it is returning all the way up when you release the clutch. The clutch pedal on my car is missing the return spring, and I have to pull up on the clutch pedal sometimes to reset the position. Honestly I cannot say I know what is going on with your car. Even with the axles, the passenger side one usually comes out of the transmission much easier than the driver's side, I don't know why it is the opposite in your situation.
 

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If the grease got enough packed into bleed screw then there may be enough so that backing off clutch pedal does not let clutch release cleanly because the grease makes a plug in the line. Brake fuild will over time break down the grease and the petroleum distillate in the grease will then blow all rubber seals when they rot from the oil exposure. The entire system needs to be 100% cleaned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the grease got enough packed into bleed screw then there may be enough so that backing off clutch pedal does not let clutch release cleanly because the grease makes a plug in the line. Brake fuild will over time break down the grease and the petroleum distillate in the grease will then blow all rubber seals when they rot from the oil exposure. The entire system needs to be 100% cleaned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I just finished installing clutch again. Put everything back together. Started the car and it jumped when I let off the clutch in reverse. Jumped in first but drove ok. Sounded like something was loose so I was only going about 5 mph. Stopped at light when I tried to take off it just reved. Help
 

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The clutch disc was installed in the correct orientation, yes?
How is the clutch master cylinder?
Did you confirm you had good fluid coming through and there was no more grease in the hydraulic lines (like, none was pushed from the slave up through towards the master)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The fluid level is good. I emptied the resivor and put new clean fluid in and bled the clutch. It feels good. When I start the car put in gear and let off clutch with no gas the engine will not stall.
 

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Sounds like it's not engaging then/stuck.

Confirmed my other questions above? What brand clutch kit, what TOB? New flywheel? Did you clean out any old grease within the bell housing, flywheel, friction surfaces, etc?
 

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The flywheel may need to be resurfaced, or that clutch kit may require a different flywheel than OEM. Something odd happened with the old setup that leads me to believe that part causing the issue wasn't replaced.
 
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