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I would like to spread out my svtf more so I can get better traction with my strutbar.

Do I have to upgrade to bigger wheels that are wider (18's If it was essential), or can I buy a wider tire that will still fit on my stock 17 svtf wheels?

Thanks guys[thumb]
 

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Need bigger wheels
 

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How about going to a 16 inch wheel and just get stickier tires? That way you'll save time at the track by having lighter wheels. :)
 

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Trogdor!!!

Our wheels are 17x7. I don't know if you can spoon wider tires on, sorry.

SVTDavan, another trick is to get racing lug nuts. I don't know if they will fit on our cars, but they will save 1lb per wheel, which is really significant. I found some on the net but they were Japanese and I haven't figured out if they will work on our cars.

I heard the OZ Superleggera wheels in 17x7 were only about 15.6 lbs, which is a lot better than the 21 lb stockers.

I also saw some Enkei wheels that were light, but they don't make them in 4x108. Is there any easy way to change our bolt pattern and offset?
 

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damn thats a large change in weight if you got those superleggera's with the raceing lugs you would save apporimantly 25.6 pounds which would be a signifgant amount of weight
 

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Lightweight rims are so damn expensive. I'd love a set, but at $225 + ship each minimum...I can't justify it myself. If I were you, I'd start out with a set of 235-40-17's. They're slightly shorter, which will help if you have a drop and shorten your grear ratios somewhat. Also, the speedo will only be off 1 mph at 75....and you will add .79 inch width per tire....more contact patch....for 1/3rd the cost of top notch lightweight wheels and new tires. Swap out that stock battery for a lightweight Genisis...about 200 with the battery tray/hold down. Get a nice cf hood for around 4-600 depending on mfg and lose 45-50 lbs and still be under the cost of the new rims/tires.......just me I guess....but hey, if you can afford it....then by all means.....
 

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235's are going to be tough to fit. depending on the wheel, you might need spacers and maybe some fender rolling (also depending on how low you are). Can't remember where, but I was reading about someone with 225's on his svt and he got some serious rubbing. If memory serves me correctly, he was using a stock suspension...but don't quote me.
 

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HotRodWagon, thanks for the ideas.

At least with motorcycles, they say losing 1 lb of mass from wheels (unsprung mass) is like losing 4 lbs off something sprung. Basically, 1 lb in lighter wheels = 4 lbs from, say a Ti exhaust can. Also, the bike becomes easier to steer with lighter wheels.

I think the same is true for cars, 25lbs lost from wheels is like losing 100lb from the body. Lighter wheels also means easier steering, less wear on brakes, and faster acceleration. I know these yoyos with 26" wheels and no brake mods end up burning through pads like crazy, all because the increased wheel weights.

I found a set of wheels on ebay that sell for $700, and claim to be 14.7 lbs, for 17x7, which is unreal! The OZ Chrono Evolution are similar in weight, but cost about $250 each.

I like the battery idea, I am thinking about doing that for my bike too. Is there an easy way to relocate the battery in the trunk?

If I could just win the lotto...or get a raise... another issue is this, what makes a better car, $2700 in lighter stuff, or the JRSC?

(Does anyone that runs aftermarket wheels also run spacers to get that 49mm offset?)
 

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Weight reduction and redirection is an old tried and true hot rod trick. If you are going to the track, remove everything you can safely remove, like the spare, jack, rear seat, empty the washer fliud, get the lightest battery ect.

Think twice about all those add-ons we all like so much.

Bring dry ice to pack around the intake manifold.

If your running 1320 get a set of stock 14s or 15s for the back, all they do is follow the leader.

One of the great things about fwd is that when removeing weight from the rear of the car we arent removing weight from over the drive wheels.

Lots of ways to reduce or redirect weight, just stand there and look, it will come to you.
 

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rayrevolver said:
SVTDavan, another trick is to get racing lug nuts. I don't know if they will fit on our cars, but they will save 1lb per wheel, which is really significant. I found some on the net but they were Japanese and I haven't figured out if they will work on our cars.
Dude, the lugnuts holding each wheel on don't even weigh 1lb to start with. If you rode around with NO lugnuts you wouldn't save 1 lb per wheel. What kind of vehicle are you talking about, a F-250 Superduty? =)

Greg
 

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You can fit 225/40 17 on our stock rim without rubbing. Only Nitto makes that size tire! They are the 555 extreme.
 

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Hammong, you are correct. I made a mistake, you save 1 lb total, not 1 lb per wheel.

"In addition to the added security, these nuts also weigh 50% less than stock lug nuts (0.9 oz. vs. 2.1 oz.) On a car with 4 lugs per wheel, this can save you more than a pound! These lug nuts are open ended to comply with most race sanctioning bodies. Sets are available in M12 x 1.5 and M12 x 1.25 and come in chrome, black, or silver and come 20 to a pack."

These kits are $59, which doesn't seem too bad to lose 1 lbs from the rotating mass. Will these fit our cars?
 

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sounds interesting, but don't forget, you are really taking off 1 lb but only 1/2 lb is effective. The drive wheels are really the only ones that will benefit. Reducing unsprung mass will increase handling, but this is almost negligible. From my experiences, if you save 5 lbs a wheel, that is very noticeable...anything less becomes a question of value.
 

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HotRodWagon said:
Lightweight rims are so damn expensive. I'd love a set, but at $225 + ship each minimum...
Sorry, but I just have to laugh at this. You guys have no idea how cheap car stuff is. A set of lightweight aluminum rims for my bike would run me between $2000 and $4000, so $1000 for a set of "4" for a car isn't that much. A good exhaust for a bike is at a minumum of $500 and go well over $2000, $1200 is a good point; so $500 for a Borla isn't such a bad deal. A friend of mine spent $1500 for a set of adjustable shocks for his Audi, a rear shock alone for my bike would cost between $800 and $1800; depending on how much adjustability I wanted.

I haven't done anything to my SFTf yet, but short of a supercharger or turbo, it'll be much cheaper to modify then my bike.

Back to wheels! I don't know how much affect it has on a car, but lighter wheels are a big deal on a bike. By having less unsprung weight, the suspension work much easier. Also, the lower centrifugal forces make the bike easier and quicker to turn. And lastly the lower moment of inertia actually allows wheel to spin up quicker, allowing the bike to accelerate faster. It can actually show up on a dyno as more horsepower and torque.

So if you are going to spend the money, go for thr lighter ones and not the all chromed out with the spinning hub bling-bling garbage!
 

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Wolf71, remember though, most stock bikes come in a higher state of tune that most cars, so mods will be very expensive. I did 160 mph on a mostly stock bike yesterday, how many cars can do that for under $12K...NONE!

I plan to get the OZ Forged AL wheels at $1500 a set in the future. My problem is that my 2001 machinery is already slow and old (420 lbs, 130hp)... You can trash Japanese motorcycles all you want, but when 160 hp bikes that weigh 350 lbs come out for $12K in a few months... LOOK OUT!!!
 

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True, although I don't think my Buell can be considered a high state of tune. Although, the motor is in a much higher state of tune then Harley ever intended the 1200 Evo motor to be.

And I would never trash any bikes, except scooters[:)] I am looking at the new CBR1000RR myself. Only two problems: 1. If I finance it, they want $6000 a year for full coverage insurance for me; unfortunately a DUI almost 3 years ago[:(] 2. I like naked bikes. The new ZX10R and R1 look like they could make nice looking naked bikes, but when it comes to Japanese I prefer Honda.
 

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I just assumed since you rode a Buell you would hate the Japanese bikes... my bad!

I have a 2001 RC51 (RVT1000R) which I love! I put a full race Jardine 2-1 ($390 for the AL!!!) and lost 20 lbs, but the bike is still slower than a stock GSXR-750.

The fact that it was slower wasn't an issue on the street, but I plan to race this year and it will help to get something newer and lighter.

I am Honda guy too, this RC51 is my fourth Honda. I somehow got the coolest insurance guy, he said it doesn't matter what bike you get, or how big, full coverage is $50 a month!! But now he cannot write any new policies, so my next bike will be a pure race bike, and I will keep the RC51 is mostly street legal trim.

The 1000RR is nice, but is going to heavy compared to the other liter 4s. I will most likey get a used GSXR1000 for the time being, it is a monster! Power wheelies in 3rd gear while short shifting!?! Yikes!

Consider getting a used RC51, I really never want another inline-4 bike, but to be competitve you need one, unless you have a lot of money. I live near Willow Springs Raceway in Rosamond, CA. If you come by I will let you ride it, as long as you let me ride your Buell.

Cheers

Ray
 

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My dad is in Palmdale, mom's in Altaneda, so I am down in that area a couple times of year. Haven't had the bike down there in awhile, unless I was just trailering through to the Laughlin River Run. Although, I'm not planning on going this year, might be in Japan around that time. I to love the way twins deliver power. I like the RC's, If I could figure out how to make the side radiators look good, I think it could make a neat looking naked hooligan bike. Even thought of using a Superhawk upper fairing, don't know why but I've always liked the styling of those.

Would love a new RSV-R Factory as well. Even the 999 Duck is starting to grow on me, especially on the Niel Hodgson Fila Replica. But I don't think I'll have $20K+ to blow in the near future.
 
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