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Discussion Starter #1
I have an extra stock guage surround and want to get a guage fitted where the coin tray is.

I've seen the how-to, but I have no experience with fiberglass, and frankly I'm scared to try.

PM me with the details.
 

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tapplastics.com has a decent FAQ...

You can remove the instrument cluster bezel, and then pop out the tray, I am sure it's removable, if not, then just cut it out using a hole cutter or something.

Once you have made room for it to fit, I would mask off the bezel and guage with tons of tape or aluminum foil, then position it where you want it, and secure it, and mold the shape out of modeling clay. You can fiberglass right over the clay without problems just to form the shape. Then pull it away, scoop out and remove the clay, and finish the project.

Cut small sections of woven fiberglass mat, (don't use shredded mat, it makes a mess, and is only like $0.20 cheaper). Soak them with resin with cataylst (hardener) added. Usually it's like 14 drops per every 1 oz of resin. (some resin is a 1 to 1 ratio)...

For a project like this, It would be good to use S2 glass because of it's weight. You don't want a heavy, thick mat for a project like this.


S-2 Glass • 4522
30" width is ideal for surfboards. S-2 glass was the first developed for military missle applications. It is a different glass than standard E-glass and is about 30% stronger and 15% stiffer. Most commonly used for high performance surf and sailboards to provide greater strength with less weight than with E-glass. Use anywhere high strength-to-weight ratios are required. S-2 glass is compatible with all TAP polyester and epoxy resins.
• Width: 30"
• Wt: sq yd • 3.7 oz
• Thickness: 5.5 mil
• Count: 24 x 22 (warp x fill)
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=88


Or, since your project is so small... you can just use fiberglass tape. It'll cut down on costs, and extra cloth that you'd otherwise probably discard.


Fiberglass Tape with Selvage EdgeRoll
length: 50 yd.
Weight: 8.6 oz./sq. yd.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=101


High quality resin, dries almost clear.

TAP Structural Lay-Up Resin
This polyester resin is used for fabrication of boat hulls, car bodies, and other large surfaces. It has a fast cure cycle and its thixotropic properties reduce runoff and sag on vertical surfaces. It has low viscosity for good wet-out on fiberglass cloth, mat, and roving. It has excellent resistance to impact and to cracking or crazing when flexed. Catalyst sold separately.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=35
 

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dp pics after I want to see this
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well, like i said i have no experience with fiberglass. i've never even seen anyone do it before.

i was trying to find someone who has done this before or has experience with fiberglassing to do it and I would pay for materials and work.

i havn't gotten any responses yet, so i may have to read up on it and do some practicing before i take this on.
 

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Fiber glass is not as hard as you might think. I made a formed fiberglass sub enclosure for my wife's VW Eurovan last weekend. You should be able to pick up a book at the local auto store on "how to" I sudjest you pick up an extra coin holder peice incase you screw up. Just give it a shot.
 

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WOO-HOO, i just got another Star!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i have a whole extra bezel i icked up at a junkyard. i need to buy a guage pod now for the fitment.

will i still be able to use the gauge pod when I'm done? or will it be stuck to the fiberglass?

i'll swing by autozone tonight and see what they have.

although i'd still like someone with experience to do it for me so if anyone sees this shoot me a PM
 

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place your nice new guage into a ziplock bag, or wrap tons of cellophane, or tinfoil to protect it from getting stuck to the fiberglass...

Gain experience with working with fiberglass first.... start a small project.
My first project was fiberglassing a 6" cardboard box...

working with fiberglass is easy once you figure out how the catalyst and resin work...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
is it really $30+ dollars for a effin single guage pod? wtf. so not worth it. what could i use for a template?
 

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you have 1 guage that you would like mounted to the instrument bezel? Where that coil tray is...

Gut out the area first using a hole cutter, dremel, or whatever tools you have at your disposal...

Then Place your guage wrapped up with something, inside the bezel, and use modeling clay to secure it's location. Then place the fiberglass over the guage, and use masking tape over the Trim and guage face... Now 2-3 layers of glass, and resinate it... Let it harden for 20-30 minutes, and then you can Use a razor blade, and Cut the area where you masked off the guage face with masking tape. Now you have some raw fiberglass at the area of your guage.

Remove all of it, and Go over the thing again with 1 more layer of glass, then round off the area where the guage would be placed...

If you have the Guage mounting cup, you can use that instead of the guage, since the guage slips right in that...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok, i'm glad i can just use the guage. I would still like someone else to do this for me, I'd pay for it of course. Since I havn't gotten any offers yet I will give it a try when I get the time.

I read the directions from the kit I bought. I got this white woven stuff that I'm supposed to lay down first then I mix this bottle with the harderner and use the scrapping tool to spread it onto where I laid the woven stuff down. Is that really all the is to it? Well I'd like to know what that white woven stuff is, it feels weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shape anything with it. What's it's purpose? Why can't I just use the mixture directly to go directly over the modeling clay?

Also what modeling clay do you suggest? (wont it melt in the summertime or something?
 

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03_SPI_sedan said:
ok, i'm glad i can just use the guage. I would still like someone else to do this for me, I'd pay for it of course. Since I havn't gotten any offers yet I will give it a try when I get the time.

I read the directions from the kit I bought. I got this white woven stuff that I'm supposed to lay down first then I mix this bottle with the harderner and use the scrapping tool to spread it onto where I laid the woven stuff down. Is that really all the is to it? Well I'd like to know what that white woven stuff is, it feels weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shape anything with it. What's it's purpose? Why can't I just use the mixture directly to go directly over the modeling clay?

Also what modeling clay do you suggest? (wont it melt in the summertime or something?
I suggest reading the Fiberglass links in the Car Audio FAQ...
Also, read the FAQ at tapplastics...
HERE -> http://www.tapplastics.com/aboutus/faq.php?

Now... to answer your questions quickly.

Use the clay as a means of hold your guage in place. you can scrape it out, and remove it later.... actually since You are just a beginner, forget I mentioned clay... that's merely a tool to use to aide in shaping of glass, and you can get by without using it.

That white woven stuff.... believe it, or not... Is fiberglass.
Mix the resin with the catalyst (following the directions and ratio on the bottle).

And brush it on with a paint brush. (don't use scraping tools, those will mess up the weave of the fiberglass mat).

Also, more catalyst = less bucket-time (amount of time resin can stay liquid in the bucket before hardening). You can alter the ratio of the resin/hardener to suite your climate conditions, and working time...

For fiberglass projects: have the following materials ready, at your side, before starting the project.

1) box of latex/nitrile gloves.
2) box of paint brushes.
3) many 1 liter measuring buckets.
4) an area to use, where dripping resin doesn't pose a problem.
5) If doing large amounts of sanding, have a respirator, and full clothing.

Resin cannot be removed from cement, pavement, or your driveway as it'll penetrate thru, and into the ground. My mom yelled at me for that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
eek! i keep expecting this to get easier, but it gets harder and harder! i'm really intimidated by this now. My project today once I'm out of work will be to read up on it and try to make something.

The only stupid question I have, that I probly wont be able to find anywhere because it's so stupid is- When you're making something, will the inside (or bottom side) stick to whatever you are molding around?

Foci Fosho- would you be interested in doing this for me? i can ship you the parts, i'll pay for materials and you can come up with the rate for the work. you could even just do the first part (just getting the shape right) then ship it back and i'll even it out, sand it down, and paint it. if you wouldn't mind helping me out, just PM me, and thanks for all the help and info.
 

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Its pretty easy. I started doing using steps and how-to's i found on here and other sites. Good luck and make sure to post some pics when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
wow, haha not even close to working. ill give it another shot tonight.
 

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You need sunlight or temperatures above 70 degrees for resin to cure properly...
Also be sure you are using the correct amount of catalyst.

If you are in a colder/cloudy climate, you can add 5-6 more drops per oz for faster results.

It doesn't work easily indoors, unless you have a space heater that does like 1500 BTU's or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I did it in the garage and it was pritty hot out, maybe thats why it didnt work out. I'm going to tray and make something useful this time. I'm going to make one of those things that go behind the speaker in the door. I'm going to use a speaker, put something about a half inch thick under the botom then cover it in saranwrap. I hope this works out. and doesnt justt turn into goop.
 

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If it makes you feel any better... I went thru like 6-8 yards, and 1 gallon of structural layup resin... when I was attempting to make a fiberglass box, that came out piss poor... So I wasted about $100 of materials...

Learning experience: Don't mix up 10-12 oz's of resin at a time. and do as much work as possible. It's messy, and It's a waste.

Work in small doses, 4 oz's of resin for every 5 minutes worth of fiberglass layup.

With a project this small, the mat you have may be too thick. You can get thin, fiberglass-tape, and lay up 4-5 layers of that, and it'll be as strong, or stronger than 2-3 layers of the thicker stuff.
 

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Run with fiberglass reinforced bondo. I put a piece of PVC pipe with the inside diameter just big enough to fit my Autometer 2 1/16" oil psi gauge, and slowly build up thin layers of fiberglass bondo around it. It works great, and looks bad ass! My car gets upwards of 120 degrees inside it in the summer, and about -20 degrees in the winter and I have had no problems with it cracking.
 
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