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Discussion Starter #1
The question is more towards the end if you want to save some reading...

OK... From the start.
I bought my car on a Wednesday evening (02 svt with a jrsc) and Thursday morning (real bad storms) roads started to flood and I hydro locked it [bigcry]
It had a cold air intake and I didnt have time to change it. I got it back running by Friday (plugs and wires to come in) and put a new filter on the top half of the cai to prevent this from happening again, i bought a stock svt intake off a member here and had to wait for it to ship. I also bought a new MAF.
When i changed the plugs, everything looked good. Then i had an axle break and had to replace the windage tray and oil pan. So while parts were shipping, I did some research and I put in copper cores like ive read on here.

Problem: After three days of driving with no issues, i started to notice blueish smoke from the tail pipe. I checked the plugs and noticed plug from the third cyl looked like garbage. Looked down the plug hole and can see oil sitting on top of the piston.

Tests: Ive done a leak down test and a compression test.
Leak down test:
Cyl 1: 2% loss
Cyl 2: 5% loss
Cyl 3: 3% loss
Cyl 4: 6% loss
Now for a car this old i feel as if these numbers are low (your thoughts?)

Compression Test: These are estamites as they are off the top of my head
Cyl 1: 100
Cyl 2: 105
Cyl 3: 94
Cyl 4: 96 Also seem low... but alldata doesnt give a range. Only says the lowest cant be 75% less then the highest...

Now for the QUESTION:
My friends are telling me valve seals. But, seems to burn alot of oil making me think rings even tho the test numbers are decent... The air from the leak down test did come out the oil fill. It also does not constantly smoke, mostly on start up and higher RPM or even when a heavy load is put on it. (i.e. going up hill in too low of a gear)

Its enough oil burning to foul out the plug enough to cause a slight miss fire in a week, but not enough of a miss fire to throw a CEL.

I need all of you [pray] experts to give me your opinion. Please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I thought. But in the leak down test, it was the best out of all 4 cyl... That is the part I don't understand...
 

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Was the compression test done 100% = between the test meaning what was done for Cyl one , turn engine 4 rotations throttle open of closed etc doen to each compression test

The leak down test same ? the leak down doesnt tell me you have a broken ring gland like the SVT is prone to do if it had ring issues I would expect to see a much higher % on the leak down

If you open the TB and with a light look into the intake how much oil can you see in the intake manifold , the Focus Zetec engine is well known to get a ot of oil into the intake through the valve cover breather and PCV this can be sucked back into the engine and burn the oil

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I showed up at the shop as they started the leak down test. So I missed the compression test. But they didn't open the throttle... And they only rotated the engine once to find tdc again... Sorry guys, fell asleep.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Reading some other forums on oil burning before I go to sleep...

Some info that may help.
Smokes pretty bad on start up (valve seals?)
Also smokes at higher rpms around 4-5K (rings?)
When I wake up Im going to check in the intake with a flash light like you said tom, but I just got out of work and am sleepy.
With tinted windows its kind of hard to tell while driving, but I would say it smokes the worst on start up, to the point while its just idling, it will smoke you out. Seeing how bad it smokes at idle, I would imagine I should be able to see it while driving too.
As Im still new to the focus scene, I also saw something about PCV problems which Im going to read on now. THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!!
 

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Reading some other forums on oil burning before I go to sleep...

Some info that may help.
Smokes pretty bad on start up (valve seals?)
Also smokes at higher rpms around 4-5K (rings?)
When I wake up Im going to check in the intake with a flash light like you said tom, but I just got out of work and am sleepy.
With tinted windows its kind of hard to tell while driving, but I would say it smokes the worst on start up, to the point while its just idling, it will smoke you out. Seeing how bad it smokes at idle, I would imagine I should be able to see it while driving too.
As Im still new to the focus scene, I also saw something about PCV problems which Im going to read on now. THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!!
Your compression and leakdown are good. If the shop is doing a compression test with a closed throttle they are idiot hacks that don't know how to properly do a comp test and I'd take it elsewhere after they refunded my money for wasting my time. Regardless, you are not looking for a specific PSI in this case; rather their comparative values. All cylinders should be within 75% of one another and they are.

Your leakdown is just fine, anything over 20% is bad. But then again, you can't trust any of this because if the shop can't do a proper compression test I doubt they did a proper leakdown.

Hearing air from the valvecover is 100% normal and anyone who knows engine basics knows that rings don't seal 100%.... so some noise SHOULD be heard in the valvecover because it should be the ONLY place you hear it on a good motor. If leakage is <20% and you only hear air in the crankcase - you pass a leakdown.

Now onto why you burn oil:

First off, when the motor "hydrolocked" it developed a vacuum in the pre-throttle intake system. This would cause the engine to suck unusually hard on the PCV catch can and you may have just sucked all the oil out of the catch can. This would make you burn oil for a short period of time and then it will go away.

Are you 100% positive there was no smoke or consumption whatsoever before sucking up a bunch of water? The spec, although laughably liberal is no more than 1qt per 1500 miles.... Technically, according to Ford, you don't have a problem unless it burns more than 1qt per 1500.... and there is a specific way to measure this as well so don't just check the stick from time to time and guess how much it's missing...

Diagnosing oil consumption causes by "when" it smokes isn't the most accurate thing in the world but if you smoke the most on startup and high RPM's it sounds like the intake is collecting oil. It has time to trickle down overnight giving you the startup smoke and the airflow volume at high RPM's would pick it up and introduce it then as well. How would the intake puddle oil? Likely from sucking it through the PCV can while your filter was under water.

Either way, the only thing the comp and leakdown test confirmed is that your rings are still sealing. If that shop knew their ass from their elbow they would have done a wet test just to make sure the rings were not the source of any oil consumption but we've already established their lack of sensible diagnosis [:)~]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ill look up the wet test. Never heard of that before. I did discover that sponge filter in the stock intake(from the tube going to the valve cover) and it was soaked in oil. I took it out from the intake (fingers covered in oil) and put it on the fuse box while I looked in the TB like Tom said. with a light, as I slowly opened the TB I was able to see the oil connect the TB to the butterfly? Sorry I dont know what to call it... Also I can see oil around all the edges of the intake/supercharger. I dont know how to properly "measure" oil consumption, but will also be looking that up as well. I feel as if the oil consumption is rather high.
 

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Well, the presence of a blower will not only increase the likelihood of oil consumption through the crankcase breather but it will also increase the likelihood of bottom-end wear. I'm not giving you a lecture, but you did put a blower on a high compression engine with aluminum pistons... kind-of a No-No situation when it comes to building a motor.....

All that nonsense aside it sounds like all the oil in the intake is from the crankcase. Given this thing runs well and the shop didn't find anything else abnormal I'd recommend you disassemble and clean the entire crankcase venting system (it is surely modified for the blower) and run a can of decarb through the intake to clean it out. A little oil in the intake is good for a roots blower - lubrication, right? But too much is still too much.

The decarb should be done by a proffessional, though. It's tough to successfully execute on a N/A motor let alone something with a roots blower on it. You are basically going to run a liquid solvent through the intake and dance on the line of a REAL hydrolock. If done correctly it will completely clean the top end; if done incorrectly it will completely destroy the bottom-end.

Otherwise if the breather is the source of your consumption and you clean it out/figure out why all the oil is no longer being trapped in the filter media - it will only smoke until it burns out the rest of whatever oil is already in there. Could be days, could be months. Either way it will smoke like a mother, stink like hell and potentially carbon-foul your plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so I did the research on the wet test. I also asked my friend that did the testing for me. He gave me a lengthy explanation on why he didnt do it. I did not build this car, i bought it used. I really dont plan on rebuilding this motor, as I will prob want to build another motor once I get a house (reason for buying this car and getting rid of my G35...) But as unhappy as I am with this car, I think Ill have to go turbo...

Anyways... It didnt burn oil like this before. This is post hydrolock. Since Ive owned it, going on two months. Ive ran it for four fill ups at the pump. (I drive 60 miles a day for work) Otherwise its been down for awhile.
 

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If you have a lot of oil in the intake you need to stop sucking the PCV and valve cover into the intake , vent them to the ground and let them go

You tune being off can cause excessive blowby as well

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This car is killing me!
Now its smoking out of the tube running to the ground from the valve cover (havent done the PCV valve yet...)
It was wierd, seems like it picked up its power that was lost. Now the power is on and off and like i said smokes from the valve cover hole... I put brand new plugs in again... but have no hope or motivation with this thing I didnt check them.[:(!]
 

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So.... you are running a draft tube now with no fresh air side???

Give us a description (detailed) of what kind of crankcase vent you have, when you see see the smoke and exactly what your driveability issue is
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Right now I just have a tube running to the ground. I am reading on a catch can setup. Once I understand everything and know what I need, I will be buying one. From what Im reading sounds like it will not be ran thru the intake but to the atmosphere. Hopefully this is correct.

I was pissed off when I posted the valve cover smoke, because it was something new and the smoke must have went thru the cabin filter and out my vents... I was pissed. I did notice when I got smoke thru the vents, it would smoke out the exhaust.

Run-ability issues: (guessing it is caused by cyl 3 plug being covered in oil) but no low rpm power and it will miss/hesitate once in awhile. Just cruising it will kind of like surge.

I have another question, On startup/warm up i get a noticable amount of condensation from the muffler. Its got the stock cat and a cat back magnaflow exhaust. muffler and resonator.

Update: After taking a day off with the pain in the rear car, Today i changed the PCV valve (little sticky, dont think anything major) and I also checked cyl 3 plug. Still burning oil, but I dont think its as bad. But noticing some more vibrations at an idle since the PCV change...

SORRY FOR ALL THE QUESTIONS, but I havent had much time to read things on this car since everything seems to take a crap at once... Besides the money spent on buying it ive spent $1500 in repairs within the 60hrs of owning it. Sorry again guys.

No, not aware of datalogging. No Wideband. (is that what you were talking about tom?)
I know things are wrong with this set up guys, and I do plan on fixing it right. But with all these repairs im limited on funds now. I DO want a tune from you tom, and I do plan on a wide band. I do expect a engine rebuild (forged pistions, ect)
Dont know what route I want to go as far as same setup, pwrworks or even turbo.
 

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Hands down I would do turbo , see if a local FF member has a xcal3 they could do some datalogging with and loose the PCV cut the bottom off of the PCV , take out the spring and plunger and get a 3/8 hose to go on the pcv rought it over the top raid hose and to the ground , then plug the pcv hose going to the intake

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Trying to think of things that changed . When I got it, I put synthetic oil in it w/o knowing if the previous owner ran it.

I know there was a MYTH that said it could cause the seals to leak. Is there any truth to this MYTH? 125K miles btw...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK GUYS! WHO IS STILL UP?!

I installed a homemade catch can. And I also cut the PCV just like Tom said. The PCV went to a "T" so I took the "T" out and just inserted a union an connected the other two lines from the "T". (I did see that on a forum, so I think it is correct)

Current issue: I have smoke "puffing" out of the dip stick. (noticed some smoke coming out, so I pulled it out a little and smoke is puffing out the dip stick. Thinking that there was something wrong with my catch can, I undid the can and it still smokes out of the dipstick, but more out of the can... So it has to have good flow...

This cannot be normal right?? HELP!!!!
 

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If you have smoke coming out from the PCV vent, the dipstick tube, ect then more than likely you are gonna need to do rings.

As Tom mentioned you may have broke a ring land as well...... I'm sorta an expert in blowing off ring lands.
 
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