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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of anyone running a bigger pulley than the 11psi that comes with the kit. Or is there no bbk for the PW yet?
 

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Mtn. Dew
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It would be a smaller pulley, not a bigger one. They made 10 I think, all of which are gone already. Not sure if they are going to make more or not.

You could also use a larger crank pulley and get more boost.
 

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I wouldn't recommend the larger crank pulley.

If you want one, call the hotline and see if they have any left ... but I think the latest batch was all spoken for.

Check into what Massive is going to offer soon too.
 

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The PW pullies are pressed on.

Massive is developing a swapable pulley - bolt to a press-on hub.

I did use it, but I didn't like it. I didn't like the tight belt routing with the PW tensioner - kinda too tight between the crank and tensioner pullies. And I think the undampened pulley had something to do with the the bearing/bolt failure at sustained high RPM (long time down the straight).
 

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It’s funny that you mention the tight tensioner to crank contact, Looking at the kit, I believe the tensioner pulley is 3.5 inches in diameter.

If you put the 5.7 crank pulley on you will be increasing the crank pulley diameter by ½ and inch, which will move ¼ inch closer to the tensioner.

Now this will be a problem with belt wrap after the crank, as the tensioner under load will account for most of the load dampening due to vibration. If you use a smaller belt you will compound this problem.

The solution is to change the tensioner pulley. It needs to be 3 inches in diameter. By doing this you will increase the distance the tensioner clears the crank, plus you will have a lager surface area in contact with the belt.

IMO that if you when to NAPA and ask them to order the tensioner pulleys for the stock Zetec, you’ll find what your looking for. You just what to make sure that it’s the smooth pulley, as the tensioner pulley rides on the back side of the belt.
[thumb]
 

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You need to make sure the tensioner/idler bearing has the proper backspacing to keep the belt in alignment ... not all pullies have identical bearing spacing (or sizes).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
was there any numbers, as how much this bbk put down on these cars? Can i have a pulley machined custom, not happening right away, because havent even gotten the sc installed yet or even driven a FI car to see what i thought about the power, ive ridden in a ss cobalt SC and it was pretty nice, but this should be much better than that.
 

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COSDEVSVT said:
You need to make sure the tensioner/idler bearing has the proper backspacing to keep the belt in alignment ... not all pullies have identical bearing spacing (or sizes).
I've done my homework on this, here's a few photo's to look at.




Keep in mind this is just one idea, to solve the tensioner crank clearance issues; if you decided to use a 5.7 crank pulley. Napa part number is 209752. I think it coast around $25 dollars.
 

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bryanjw82 said:
was there any numbers, as how much this bbk put down on these cars? Can i have a pulley machined custom, not happening right away, because havent even gotten the sc installed yet or even driven a FI car to see what i thought about the power, ive ridden in a ss cobalt SC and it was pretty nice, but this should be much better than that.
This is the last dyno that I did, not that I'm that great of a tuner; but its right in line with what Focus salvage got when they did it. I think they had 267hp 206tq. The dyno in red is where I started and the blue is the max I had on my last run. Again this is a built engine and lower compression 8.9 to 1 and yes I have the BBK 2.6 pulley snout.
Not that I'm making more boost, as I have a lot of head work done. It should be some where around 13lbs on the Svt. I only see 9-10lbs.

I've been thinking lately about uping the boost, Intake temps are still really low 124-132 average and the max I've seen is around 150 after beatting on it at the track for 30 minutes.



http://www.bolt.com/99dot/photo/1459382
 

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There is more power in that kit, but I don't know how hard I would push a stock motor. A built motor is a better bet..
 

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Lil_RedZX3 said:
99dot, are you pushing 7500 rpms? If so have you had any issues with boost and high rpms?
Again, this is not a stock motor, the valve, spring and retainers are all custom. I didn’t really try to rev it that high either. I had the rev limiter turned off in the tune.

Then again if you look at the dyno sheet; you'll see that it continued to make power tell 7500rpm. I would like to see a little more boost lower,
To elevate the power curve sooner. With a supercharger everything builds with rpm. I believe that with the 2.6 pulley and the stock crank pulley that the pulley ratio is 2.0 to 1. Meaning that if you have rev the car to 7000 rpm the blower is spinning at 14, 0000 rpm.
 

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bryanjw82 said:
was there any numbers, as how much this bbk put down on these cars? Can i have a pulley machined custom, not happening right away, because havent even gotten the sc installed yet or even driven a FI car to see what i thought about the power, ive ridden in a ss cobalt SC and it was pretty nice, but this should be much better than that.
Powerworks does not reccommend the BBK setup without a built lower end. The SVT pistons can only take so much pressure before they break. The PW kit is quite a bit different then the JR kit and makes more power out of the box then the Jackson does with the BBK. Get the kit on the car and drive it before you decide you need more boost.

Jersey
 

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Jerseyboy said:
Powerworks does not reccommend the BBK setup without a built lower end. The SVT pistons can only take so much pressure before they break. The PW kit is quite a bit different then the JR kit and makes more power out of the box then the Jackson does with the BBK. Get the kit on the car and drive it before you decide you need more boost.

Jersey
I agree with Jersey on this, PW does not recommend upping the boost on a stock engine. As they have found that the connecting rod will not hold up for very long. If you still want to push the Powerworks kit to the limit, build the engine up to support more Hp. Or if you’re not sure that you will need more power just leave well enough alone; as straight out of the box the car is a blast to drive.

The build that I have is not your standard kit. I’ve spent a lot of money and time trying to see what the limit is. I’m not sure if there is much left as the roots blower becomes inefficient if spun pass 14,000 rpm. I’m sure in the next few months we will see for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
so just upgraded pistons and rods would work?
 
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