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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[mecry] Ok this is going to be kind of long, but i have no idea whats goiong on so i wanted to tell the whole thing. thanks in advance!

Ok i have an 02 zx3 with an auto trans. Today i was driving down I-95, in the fast lane, doing about 75 or so. i thought my car felt kind of wierd for a second, but i dismissed it thinking it was the wind (we had heavy winds here today). So about another mile down 95, out of nowere it downshifted (or thats what it felt like) and the rpms got real high, prolly close to 5k. and a second after it sounded like it down shifted there was a pretty hard klunk/bang right around my foot well area. The light on the dash with the "!" came on. after i let off the gas and slowerd a little it went back to normal.

so i pulled off onto the shoulder and put it in park and it immediatly the engine died. so im thinking oohh [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)].[:(] i tried to start it and she started right up efortlessly. So i drove on the shoulder for a little and everything seemed fine, so i pulled back onto the highway and all seemed well!

got off 95 another mile or so down the road and was on a two lane rd. (rt. 43) and was driving and it did it again! just like the first time but i wasnt going as fast. so i pulled over, put it in park and all was good. i got out the owners manual and looked for what that light meant and if i recall it was something with the trans.

so i continued to my destination (Pete's Cycle) and everything was good. made it right to their parking lot and (there parking lot goes up a small rise then down a steepish hill) as soon as i went over the rise it stalled and left me drifting about 10mph with no power steering (almost hit a car). so i drifted into a parking spot and put it in park. started it and it started right up, no problems at all.

went in the store, came back out about 25 minutes later, and looked under the car. no fluids leaking, nothing. got in, started right up, and drove home on bel air rd. for about 20 some miles and it never happened again.


I dont really have the money to be spending on a new trans, and it says something about getting it serviced, but i just got it done around 5000 miles ago.



Whats going on with my car?!
 

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sounds like one of the shifting solenoids may be misbehaving

I will see if I can find the post about where there located ( there actually in the transmission but accessible through the trans fluid pan) how to check and replace
 

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Yeah, I would guess a shift solenoid as well. How many miles on car, and has the service been done to the suto trans ??

So, what were you doing at Petes cycle???
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it has 84k on it and yes i just ogt a full auto trans. service done at jiffy lube at around 79-80k.

i was at petes getting a flywheel puller, im in the process of rebuilding my atv
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im not sure what they did, but it cost a hundred and some bucks!
 

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did you get it fixed ????

there is a possibility of the wrong Fluid used to refill which eventually broke down and caused problems with the ATX fluid channels/chambers/solenoids

I'm still searching for that post its buried somewhere on how to check the solenoids and I have a feeling it may of ended up in the How-Tos

(Goin to check again)
 

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This was Snipped from aokrongly Post...

PLEASE get the cars computer scanned for Codes.. just because the Check engine light is off doesn't always mean there isn't codes stored

if you don't have a reader take it to autozone those codes stored will GREATLY help us on helping you find your problem and save you a stealership visit

your car may be suffering from a more advanced version of this problem

---------the next 2 lines are NOT on a Ford Focus, this is what my OLD car had which caused similar problems)
on my old car ( not gunna mention it) it was common for a TCC ( torque converter clutch ) to stick and cause the Automatic transmission to STAY locked in a gear even when slowing down causing the car to abruptly stall


Snippit of an older post
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The first time this issue happened (at 60k miles) I paid a transmission shop $600 to fix it. It just happened again (at 100k miles) and I fixed it myself for about $50. It's a fairly common problem, so I'm posting the symptoms, codes and instructions here to help others.

I own a 2002 Ford Focus with automatic transmission. The symptoms are that the transmission disengages (slips out of gear) when it goes into 3rd gear. When the car slows down to 20 miles an hour or so (or when you stop) it re-engages. You can drive the car in 1st or 2nd gear generally. The transmission light comes on. There are no noises associated with this problem. If you have this problem then it's probably the "A" Solenoid that needs to be replaced. Here's how you make sure that's the case and fix it for $50.

1. You need to pull the diagnostic computer codes. Ford will pull them for you for $100. But, you can do it for free by going to AutoZone. They have a loaner computer diagnostic code puller. If you bring the car they'll just do it for you in the parking lot. If you want to borrow the tool then they will want a $200 security deposit. I recommend that you bring the car to them if you it's close. Also, there are lots of small shops that will pull the code for you for free. There's no reason to pay a "diagnostic fee" to pull the computer repair code. This code will tell you Exactly which solenoid to replace. It's typically the "A" solenoid, though.

2. Once you get the code you need to know which solenoid to replace. Here is a list of diagnostic solenoid codes:

P0750 SSA SSA solenoid circuit failure SSA circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. No reverse gear (short) or no fourth gear (open). Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0751 SSA SSA functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0755 SSB SSB solenoid circuit failure SSB circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0756 SSB SSB functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0760 SSC SSC solenoid circuit failure SSC circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0761 SSC SSC functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0765 SSD SSD solenoid circuit failure SSD circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open, shorted or PCM driver circuit failure during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0766 SSD SSD functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0770 SSE SSE solenoid circuit failure SSE circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open. Shorted or PCM driver circuit failed during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0771 SSE SSE functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.

3. It's fairly easy to replace the solenoid. You need a 5/16 socket and rachet and a tube of Gray RTV Gasket Maker (you can get it at any auto parts store).

4. You need to buy the solenoid. I only found it at Ford. For some reason when I told 3 different parts managers I wanted the "A" solenoid (which is how it's described in every Ford transmission diagram and on the computer code) they didn't know which one it was. There are 6 solenoids in the transmission. The "A" solenoid is the one they sell the most of and probably have on hand - because it goes out fairly often on this model. The Ford part number (off the bag) is XS4Z-7H148-AA. I paid about $45 for it at a Ford dealership.

5. For the repair you need to raise the front of the car. I used ramps, but make sure it's secure. The transaxle (transmission) is in the front right, as you look at the car. The bottom is a pan, like an oil pan, with about 20 bolts holding it on. They're 5/16th's. There's transmission fluid in the pan, but no "drain bolt". So, have a pan ready to catch the fluid once the transmission pan comes loose. Be careful. Transmission fluid is hot, it will make a mess. And, the pan has a silicone gasket seal around it. So, once you get the bolts off/loose you will probably need to work the pan loose. Don't bend it. (Make sure you get all the bolts off, it's easy to miss one.) I left one bolt on the front so I could ease the pan loose from the transmission on the back and let the fluid run into a pan. Then I removed the pan.

6. You will see SIX solenoids in the transmission. You can't miss them. Each one has a different colored wire going to it. The A Solenoid has a white wire going to it, it's a small solenoid in the center on the right. It's held in place by one bolt (that's also 5/16ths). Unplug the wire, remove the bolt and remove the solenoid. Put the new solenoid in.

7. Carefully and completely scrape all the old gasket off the transmission surface the the edge of the fluid pan. Clean it. Then apply the new gasket (from the tube) onto the edge of the pan. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you just apply a thin bead of gasket compound. Don't use too much or the excess will get into your transmission and cause a problem.

8. Replace the pan. Let the gasket set according to the instructions on the tube - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. And refill the transmission with transmission fluid. I was told to use the same fluid I took out, by someone I trust. You use a funnel and refill it through the transmission dipstick tube (front, right of the engine, yellow handle). Make sure you put it in the right place. Fill it slowly. Then run the engine and check the fluid. Add until it reads correctly on the dipstick. You check transmission fluid with the car running and the fluid hot.

9. Look under to car to make sure there are no leaks around the transmission pan. Over the next days and weeks keep an eye out for leaking transmission fluid when you park. If the transmission pan is leaking then you'll need to redo the gasket but do a better job this time.

That's it! It's so easy a 14 year old kid could do it. It doesn't take strength, mechanical ability or the ability to grow a beard. It just takes care, patience and dirty hands. Have a shop do it for you for $450-$600 OR MORE. Or do it yourself for $45 for the part and $5 for a tube of RTV gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
do you think that is the problem? and were can i get solenoids?

Also, if i just take it to autozone, they will get the code for ree?
 
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