[2012selFocus]

Im at almost at 120k

 

[FordFailus2016]

101k on my 16 SE. Had 45k when I got it in May of 17.

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[2012selFocus]

Nice i got mine at 112000

 

[nuclear_dj]

I got mine at about 170k, now approaching 190k.

 

[twistedclown2525]

Just hit 260k on my 2014 SE with the DCT.

 

[2012selFocus]

I got mine at about 170k, now approaching 190k.

Does it still feel strong?

 

[2012selFocus]

Just hit 260k on my 2014 SE with the DCT.

How the dct holding?

 

[twistedclown2525]

The DCT feels just as good as it did when I first got a tune on it from Tom and that was in the early life of the car. I have done about everything that has been said on the forums to try and prolong it's life like checking and improving the ground connections to the body. I do a lot of highway driving on my commute so it stays at a consistent speed most of the time, but I do kick into it frequently when the chance comes up.

 

[2012selFocus]

What kind of other things did you do to prolong it? Also what does toms tune do? Ive been curious about how he tunes it.

 

[twistedclown2525]

What kind of other things did you do to prolong it? Also what does toms tune do? Ive been curious about how he tunes it.

Sorry in advance, this might get a little wordy.

As far as prolonging he life of the DTC there are few things that have been listed in different discussions on the site and videos from users and drivers on youtube. I cannot remember exactly what threads they were in on here, but the search should turn them up with enough looking around. As I mentioned before there was a suggestion about improving the ground connections to the body of the car. This is supposed to help with smoother operation of the electronics in the transmission by having a "cleaner" path for electricity. There has also been mention of how you are to drive with it. Since it is not a traditional automatic but more of a manual shifted by the computer you are supposed to drive it with more commitment when you want to move rather than how you would with an automatic. So even when I am sitting in traffic I don't ease into the pedal like I would my auto ZX3, but I give it enough gas to make it know that I want it to go if that makes sense. There was another mention of adding stiffer motor mounts. Some people don't like the vibration in the cabin, but it does lessen up a great amount after about 5,000 miles. If you were not going to do them all I would at least do the rear motor mount. By doing that you are stiffening up the drivetrain and that is supposed to help.

I have a couple of basic mods on the car like a: bigger throttle body, CAI, catback exhaust and cooler thermostat as well as the motor mounts. The car did well with these, but Tom's tune is what brought it together. He has tuning information around on the site. The basics of it is you purchase a tuner/ flasher from Tom and he sends it out to you. Then you read your vehicle strategy off of the car with it. You then send that to him along with a list of mods, if any, that you have on the car. He will then send you a base tune for the car to flash to the computer. From there you will do a datalog with the flasher plugged in and drive around to get some data for Tom to send back to him. He will then send you a more refined version of the tune to put on your car. For me even just the base tune did wonders for the car. I got: more performance, smoother shifts, and even better gas mileage. I would say the hardest part for me was getting the datalog data that he needed. He is very helpful when it comes to that and willing to answer any questions you may have though. I would send him a message if you have more questions on that.

 

[2012selFocus]

Sorry in advance, this might get a little wordy.

As far as prolonging he life of the DTC there are few things that have been listed in different discussions on the site and videos from users and drivers on youtube. I cannot remember exactly what threads they were in on here, but the search should turn them up with enough looking around. As I mentioned before there was a suggestion about improving the ground connections to the body of the car. This is supposed to help with smoother operation of the electronics in the transmission by having a "cleaner" path for electricity. There has also been mention of how you are to drive with it. Since it is not a traditional automatic but more of a manual shifted by the computer you are supposed to drive it with more commitment when you want to move rather than how you would with an automatic. So even when I am sitting in traffic I don't ease into the pedal like I would my auto ZX3, but I give it enough gas to make it know that I want it to go if that makes sense. There was another mention of adding stiffer motor mounts. Some people don't like the vibration in the cabin, but it does lessen up a great amount after about 5,000 miles. If you were not going to do them all I would at least do the rear motor mount. By doing that you are stiffening up the drivetrain and that is supposed to help.

I have a couple of basic mods on the car like a: bigger throttle body, CAI, catback exhaust and cooler thermostat as well as the motor mounts. The car did well with these, but Tom's tune is what brought it together. He has tuning information around on the site. The basics of it is you purchase a tuner/ flasher from Tom and he sends it out to you. Then you read your vehicle strategy off of the car with it. You then send that to him along with a list of mods, if any, that you have on the car. He will then send you a base tune for the car to flash to the computer. From there you will do a datalog with the flasher plugged in and drive around to get some data for Tom to send back to him. He will then send you a more refined version of the tune to put on your car. For me even just the base tune did wonders for the car. I got: more performance, smoother shifts, and even better gas mileage. I would say the hardest part for me was getting the datalog data that he needed. He is very helpful when it comes to that and willing to answer any questions you may have though. I would send him a message if you have more questions on that.

Thanks for the info

 

[FordFailus2016]

Tom's tune + drive it harder is solid advice for the DCT. I try to push it enough to not make it shift below 3,000 RPM. I actually tend to ease the gas for the first second or two and then blips the throttle. This results in a firm shift and the clutch feels a lot happier this way. I usually use sport auto for the lower gears and then switch back to drive which you can do whenever you really want.

When I went back to stock tune it seemed like the only way I could get it to launch smoothly was with sport manual mode. The car was far easier to get shuddering on the stock tune. Shows what a good custom tune can do for these transmissions.

The one time I really have to be firm with it is when I slow down for someone turning and then get back on the throttle. Even with the tune if I don't hit the gas a good bit it will want to shudder. I'm not sure why this is other than maybe the trans is confused by the sudden inputs.

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[wyvern68]

22K on my 2018 S 5 Sp.

Just getting it broken in. Used to be my daily driver with my Mustang being my weekend drive.

With the lockdown and working from home, I hardly put any miles on it.

Hopefully it will be around for a long time.

 

[Juicedz]

108,000 miles

 

[Yanik]

I give it enough gas to make it know that I want it to go if that makes sense.

+

Tom's tune + drive it harder is solid advice for the DCT. I try to push it enough to not make it shift below 3,000 RPM. I actually tend to ease the gas for the first second or two and then blips the throttle. This results in a firm shift and the clutch feels a lot happier this way. I usually use sport auto for the lower gears and then switch back to drive which you can do whenever you really want.

This.
Yes. I've noticed way better results when my actions are bold and deliberate. You have to feel the seat pushing you forward when you accelerate. And ease the gas for shifts when you want them (or keep adding more gas if you don't want to shift yet) - the point is be in control, conscious about shifting. Just like driving a manual.

 

[Doughboy007]

2014 currently has 119,500. Bought it in 2015 with 10,000 miles on it. Had the clutches done 3 time compliments of ford.

 

[FordFailus2016]

+


This.
Yes. I've noticed way better results when my actions are bold and deliberate. You have to feel the seat pushing you forward when you accelerate. And ease the gas for shifts when you want them (or keep adding more gas if you don't want to shift yet) - the point is be in control, conscious about shifting. Just like driving a manual.

I'd also add that it's more important to be intentionally harder on it in the first 2-3 gears and when changing from on the brakes to on the throttle. Since getting new clutches and tuning it the only time I've had a serious shudder is when I have to slow down because someone ahead of me is turning and then having to get on the gas again to go. Unless I do a good blip of the throttle in that scenario, it wants to shudder.

Gear 4-6 seems to be pretty solid with hardly any real problem. Just seems to be the lower 3 gears that can be prone to noticable shudder. Worse on the stock tune always, as well.

We'll see how she does when it gets hot again, and I'm coming close to 15,000 miles on the new clutches, but with my modified driving habits I'm confident that it should do well. My biggest challenge is not peeling out so fast that I chirp the tires. Seems easy to do with my winter set especially.

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[Dieselman1966]

Im at almost at 120k

2015 SE with 142k and zero problems Other than normal maintenance

 

[mustang0]

2012 SE sport package 5 speed just under 40,000 miles

 

[saintsfins]

130K+ miles, 5spd, drives like new with mostly basic maintenance