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Discussion Starter #1
New guy here. I picked up a 2006 ZXW last week, and have whittled the 15 engine codes down to 3. (Most of them were caused by a broken ground wire in the harness). Now I have P0171, P2004, and P2008. I know what all of these are now thanks to you guys.

This car has been hit in the front before, and probably wasn't put back together right. There is a red wire that hooks into the back side of the engine, and ends in a connector that isn't even connected to anything and just chilling on top of my grill. Any idea what this is? Could it be the culprit for my engine codes?



 

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Vince your Moderator
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I think that it's got stranded wires on the inside of it.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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It might be for the fans though.

Some other member should chime in soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't think it has stranded wires in it. I believe it is a 4 pin connector. It really looks like an SATA cable for a hare drive. Wierd.
 

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Pictures show mostly the block heater cord, 'till the odd connector hooked to the coolant tubes & set on top of the crossbar.

You'll have to follow it back & see what it hooks up to, don't know if anyone will guess even with a better connector picture.
 

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Not to go too far off topic, but you did bring it up in your original post. Your engine codes indicate an issue with the Intake Manifold Runner Control (P2004 and P2008) and P0171 indicates engine running lean. Doing a search of the forum may reveal information on a possible fix for the P200x codes.

P2004 IMRC Stuck Open (bank 1)

P2008 IMRC Circuit Open (bank 1)

With both of those codes makes me wonder if somebody stuck the IMRC system in the open position and then unplugged the IMRC solenoid, perhaps due to the IMRC flaps getting noisy (search for it on the forum if you have not heard about that issue). Possibly since you had other grounding issues there may still be a problem there as well.

And to get back on topic, for the connector that is on the radiator support, what does the inside of it look like?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It looks like it starts as red, then turns black as it heads toward the front of the car. The plug says 'Not for alternating current' on it. I can't get my big head back there far enough to see what it plugs into, but when I accidentally unplugged it a few days ago, it was a male 3-pin.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
As far as the IMRC goes, the vacuum lines to the solenoid and actuator look good, and the actuator is plugged in. The arm is in the up position, does that mean the flaps are open? When I press it down, the idle gets a little bad. Which way should the arm move when I hit the throttle? I'm thinking the actuator might be bad. Any way to test the solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IMRC solved. The connector had broken completely off of the solenoid. When I applied vacuum to the actuator it worked just fine. New part is on the way. I'm starting to think the red wire is im fact a block heater. It just seems like it would have a regular 120v plug at the end near the radiator.
 

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Oh heck, your pictures didn't show that connector was at the end of the large wiring.

Somebody cobbed that together as a custom setup. Whether the original got damaged or they had another reason doesn't matter, you'll have to peel back that covering & attach a regular plug to make it work. Looks totally "cobbed" so check it closely or get a complete new cord.
 

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Broken connectors will definitely cause problems. Was it the solenoid housing itself that broke or the connector that plugged into it? And wonder how it got broke, on second thought, some questions are best left unasked, or if asked unanswered :) .

Instead of looking down, you can try looking up at where that wire is running to by jacking up the car and taking a look, should be able to see the back of the block pretty easy once you get under the car. I know a factory block heater should only stick about an inch outside the block and be brass in color, and is threaded into the block itself. I have recently been looking into adding one of those to my own car, especially after this last winter with its many sub zero days. I just don't know if on non-block heater cars if there is a pressed in freeze plug, or a threaded in plug, so I will have to be getting under my car to check that out soon as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Broken connectors will definitely cause problems. Was it the solenoid housing itself that broke or the connector that plugged into it?

Thanks for all of the help, you guys rock! The entire plug itself snapped off of the solenoid body. I was wondering why the pictures of new ones had connector inputs and mine didn't. I'm pretty sure that was caused by the front end collision. When I replace it, maybe I'll get lucky and the P0171 will clear too. Since i've already got a thread going, i'll just ask this here....

How do you guys' fuel gauges act normally? I just filled this car up and I'm between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank, but I've only gone 60 miles. My last few cars seemed to stay near full for a long time. Do these Focus gauges go down quickly and then slow down a quite bit? I'm worried my gauge calibration might be off.
 

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For the fuel gauge, when you turn the car off where does it rest at?

On my car I found that it should rest at right around the left edge of the E pointer mark, that way when you have a full tank it should read just past the F pointer mark.

After I upgraded the cluster and cloned the mileage from the stock cluster I had to reset all the gauge needles and that is what I found worked the best.
 
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