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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, just to say this, I am clueless when it comes to what I need to drop my car apart from lowering spring. I would like, if possible, to get a total count of everything needed to lower my car so that I won't break anything (like sway bar links, ruin stock shocks, etc), and a dollar amount. Just because I don't want to throw a $200 set of lowering springs on the car and in 6 months have to re-do everything because a stock part broke that couldn't handle the lower springs. So I'll start:

FRPP Lowering Springs: $200 (via FRPP website)

Also, what is the difference between struts, shocks, and dampers? Aren't struts a spring-damper system? So why do I hear people saying things like you need to replace the shocks and get dampers that match the spring level?

Also, this is my DD, so nothing ridiculous. I simply want to get rid of the 4x4 look, so I was thinking a 1.5" drop, yet keep drivability so I'm not bouncing around or hitting hard on every bump in the road. Thanks. I appreciate the help. I would like the know the total dollar amount I am looking at to "properly" lower my car... not just throw a set of springs on it and call it a day.

Note: With school payments (what can I say, I'm a broke college kid), I can not afford coil-overs. So please, no comments suggesting that. Regardless if doing it the way I have described above is MORE than a coil-over kit, I would like to see the total cost analysis so I can compare that to the coil-overs. If the coil-overs are like $500 cheaper, great. But it would still be nice to get a cost break down.
 

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Get the FRPP set. About $300 plus shipping. Damper is a better description of the function of a shock absorber and the terms are used interchangeably. A spring has a natural frequency and will oscillate for a while after the bump is past (technically known as the period of the spring) and the damper/shock absorber uses oil and a piston to damp or absorb these oscillations. Nitrogen is used to pressurize the oil and reduce foaming. Classically, cars have the shock mounted next to the spring (look under the rear of any pickup truck). A strut saves space by placing the spring over the damper and in the front end, the steering upper pivot point is the top of the strut, not a "ball" joint like the lower.

The lowering springs will be stiffer, to account for the reduced travel without bottoming and without matching dampers you will tend to have the bouncy ride you wish to avoid.

Tousley or Hillbish Ford have the best prices on the FRPP kit. I have not lowered my car, but some say you need camber plates up front and camber bolts in the back; depends on where you are alignment wise before lowering as to if you'll be out of spec afterwards. Check prices at Central Florida Motorsports or FSWerks, but you should be able to get the FRPP, camber bolts and camber plates all for less than $500.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Which FPRR set? I don't want the SVT one, it's not low enough.
 

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Do a search in the suspension tread and you'll find it. Like I said, I've not done it, just researched it a lot and the FRPP is usually the lowest cost 1.5 inches.
 

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I will add another comment here, if your car has spent its entire life in Ohio, you will likely have issues with bolts being seized in the lower control arms (rear). So you will probably want to add in the cost of new lower control arms and expect some extra effort to get everything apart (cutting, grinding, etc.).
 

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I will add another comment here, if your car has spent its entire life in Ohio, you will likely have issues with bolts being seized in the lower control arms (rear). So you will probably want to add in the cost of new lower control arms and expect some extra effort to get everything apart (cutting, grinding, etc.).
+1

I just put the SVT kit on my ZX3 and had to replace both lower control arms in the rear. $109 each at the dealer. Make sure you have a tool that can cut the bolts.

Depending on how low you go, you will need to replace other pieces as well in order to get a correct alignment. I think the magic number is a 1.5" drop. Less than that and you're fine, more than that you'll need more parts.
 

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I sprayed my lca bolts with pb blaster everyday for a week before my coilover install. Everything came apart easily and I didn't have to replace my lca's. Its worth a shot to do this, since a can of good penetrating fluid is 10-20 vs the cost of new lca's.
 

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I sprayed my lca bolts with pb blaster everyday for a week before my coilover install. Everything came apart easily and I didn't have to replace my lca's. Its worth a shot to do this, since a can of good penetrating fluid is 10-20 vs the cost of new lca's.
I had 8 years of rust to contend with. PB Blaster just dissolved the rubber in the bushings. :)

To the OP: just don't be surprised if you need to cut off the LCAs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Awesome info! Thanks guys!

So it's looking like:

M-18000-ZX3 Strut/Shock Kit - $199.99 (This comes with strut mounts)
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=8491

M-5560-ZXM Performance Spring Kit - $194.95
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10028

And then 2 lower control arms at $220 (my car has been in Northern Ohio 10 minutes from the lake its entire life)

The sway bar end links were just replaced because one of them was broken.

So I'm looking at around $600 to do this properly?
 

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Make sure to check prices with Tousley and/or Hillbish Ford. The "delivered" price for the shocks and springs should be in the $300.00 area. Tousley had the rear lower control arms for about 78.00 the last time I looked (a while ago). Most major auto part stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc) should be able to get you the control arms for less than 110.00 a piece as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It was told to me that the SVT dampers and shocks will not last very long with the FRPP lowering springs (maybe 10k miles) because they are designed for the SVT springs, not a 1.5" drop, and that I should buy something like the H&R strut and shock set... Is this true, and has anyone had any problems using the SVT dampers / shocks with the FRPP Performance Springs?

And how about something like this:

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...oModel=Focus+ZX3&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=SE

Yes / No? I'd rather get a complete "kit" than piece parts together
 

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It was told to me that the SVT dampers and shocks will not last very long with the FRPP lowering springs (maybe 10k miles) because they are designed for the SVT springs, not a 1.5" drop, and that I should buy something like the H&R strut and shock set... Is this true, and has anyone had any problems using the SVT dampers / shocks with the FRPP Performance Springs?

And how about something like this:

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...oModel=Focus+ZX3&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=SE

Yes / No? I'd rather get a complete "kit" than piece parts together
I got their sportline system for $441.00. Tire rack also has H&R's sport cup kit for $613.00. Acording to their spec's H&R's sport cup kit is lower than the sportline system=2.0/2.2 & H&R's=2.6/2.5. I'd go for a matched set. Checkout Miles at tire rack, he is very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just want to close the wheel gap, not slam it. Haha. And it snows where I live, which is why I simply wanted to do a 1.5" drop, and was thinking the pro-kit. Would I need the anti-roll bar, or no?
 

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The SVT damper and FRPP 1.5" drop spring is an incredibly popular combo and is specifically recommended to be used together by Ford Racing. The SVT shock/strut is proving to be very durable (within limits of course). This combo is also amazing bang for the buck. The Eibach Pro System is also very popular but is a more expensive option.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
And my stock anti-roll bars will be fine?

So FRPP springs, FRPP SVT shock / damper set, sway bar end links while I'm under there, possibly lower control arms, and I will be solid?

The only reason I was looking at the pro-kit was because of what I was told about the SVT dampers, but if they will hold just fine, there's no sense in going the more expensive route for my purposes.

Sorry for asking relatively the same thing over and over, but I keep getting differing information from different people. I just want to be 100% certain that when I order everything, I actually do order EVERYTHING, and I won't be sitting without a car for a few days while different parts come in, or have to redo it all over again because the parts I used weren't suited for the springs and something breaks.
 

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I just want to close the wheel gap, not slam it. Haha. And it snows where I live, which is why I simply wanted to do a 1.5" drop, and was thinking the pro-kit. Would I need the anti-roll bar, or no?

Roll bars are used primarily for fine tuning. Many people find that the increased sping rate and resulting lowering offsets the need for a bar or bigger bar. It becomes a personel preference and it's not a requirement by any means.
 
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