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Engine oil temp is running warm, and noticed no coolant in reservoir after letting the car cool off a couple hours. What 50/50 mix do I purchase. Its just a SE model, nothing fancy, auto trans. Any idea why it would be low on coolant? Any common problems? Thanks
 

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Motorcraft orange coolant. Checks for leaks in the engine bay and under. Look for smoke coming out of your exhaust. Check your oil level and see if coolant is mixing in.

I don't know of any common problems with the cooling system.
 

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Thanks, went to dealer and got correct fluid. I added 3/4 of a jug of 50/50 and all seems well now. The car has 165000 miles on it, I have never had a coolant change. Do you think it evaporated over time, or do I have another issue? Thanks
 

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It's a sealed system so it should not have "evaporated". Could be seeping from somewhere at a very slow rate. I'm not sure if the water pump has a seep hole like others I've seen. Evidence will be seen as dried up coolant close to the point of weeping; a dry flakey build up on hose or metal.

Failing that the other point of loss would be internally from a engine gasket. Coolant would flow into the engine and be consumed and exit through the exhaust appearing as white steam. Otherwise the coolant will flow into the oil and you'd see a foamy "milkshake" within the oil. You wouldn't miss this as it is a mess.

Keep an eye on it and monitor how fast the loss is. Top it up as needed. If there is no evidence of seeping you may want to try a gasket sealer treatment; a coolant additive. I would start with a mild one like coolant tablets.
 

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2006 ZX3 2.0, 2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT
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The overflow tank will weep under pressure if it is cracked, then not leak after the engine cools. That would be the first place to look. Unbolt it and flip it over. Usually cracks around the tab that slips into the strut tower bracket.
 

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Do not use a sealing agent. Very bad advice.
As I understand it, the tablets are pretty harmless and some manufactures use them right from the factory (GM & Subaru for sure). It's comprised of organic material (ginger root, walnut shell, etc...) that flows into the micro cracks (gasket leak) and expands. It doesn't clog the main passageways like a metallic based sealer sometimes does. This is really the only thing I would recommend and it will prevent a major seal leak from developing over time. If it is already a major seal leak then you're looking at a head gasket repair or if circumstances warrant (selling, low value car, etc...) try your luck at something more harsh.
 

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Sealer is a bad substitute for a proper repair. Overflow tank cracking has been an issue since the 2000 model.
 

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Sealer is a bad substitute for a proper repair. Overflow tank cracking has been an issue since the 2000 model.
Hey, for the OP's sake I hope it is a crack in the overflow tank or a visible hose or even a water pump leak. Those are easy and relatively inexpensive repairs as you elude to and should be fixed properly like you state. What I'm referring to is the internal leaks that require the engine to be tore into and are expensive. If you can try something harmless like coolant tablets that cost $6 then why not; what's the worst case scenario? As for the other sealer products I would definitely research them and choose wisely. I don't think I'd use them personally on a $20K+ car but for a $3K Ford Focus I'd definitely consider it. I don't think it is necessarily bad advise for this situation.
 

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Hey, for the OP's sake I hope it is a crack in the overflow tank or a visible hose or even a water pump leak. Those are easy and relatively inexpensive repairs as you elude to and should be fixed properly like you state. What I'm referring to is the internal leaks that require the engine to be tore into and are expensive. If you can try something harmless like coolant tablets that cost $6 then why not; what's the worst case scenario? As for the other sealer products I would definitely research them and choose wisely. I don't think I'd use them personally on a $20K+ car but for a $3K Ford Focus I'd definitely consider it. I don't think it is necessarily bad advise for this situation.
Not sure if it is still true but Chrysler used to put the tablets in the coolant in the factory. I think they are ground up dehydrated ginger root.
 

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My '12 had the same symptoms last summer at 125,000 miles or so. On mine the radiator end cap had a leak that was not enough to show, but coolant was slowly escaping. Eventually I could see drops of coolant there. You might investigate the endcaps when the car is hot and the weather is dry.

On mine the water pump shaft seal also failed (a big leak) before I had a chance to replace the radiator, so I ended up doing both on the same day.
 

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Same, the driver side radiator plastic endcap has a leak big enough to leave a small puddle, but the issue comes and goes depending on weather, driving, etc

I know were it is, and what to fix to stop it, but mines not a big enough issue to justify a new radiator, I've been using the same 5 quart of 50/50 for top offs for 6 months

Your issue may be the same, now you know it's an issue, keep watch on it
 
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