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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently I've had this weird issue with my speedometer. It tends to bounce around during acceleration and sometimes even bounces up when I start the car. Just the other day, as I was pulling out of a light, the needle jumped to 70 and then fell back down.

It typically goes a little higher and shakes a bit, then goes back to normal and although it's not causing any real harm, it's a little irritating and might possibly get worse.

I also have no idea what the hell to check because I have never heard of anyone with this problem so if anyone's got a solution, let me hear it.


Thanks everyone! [ffrocks]
 

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Mine did this when I test drove it (I got a big discount from the dealer for it). I could reproduce it by putting it into a high gear at a low speed and flooring it (ie High engine load condition). I would also get stumbles under heavy throttle at low speed/high gear.

It was caused by a small crack in the ignition coil. Pull the coil and inspect it carefully, any crack (no matter how small) means the coil should be replaced as the high voltage will ground through the crack and cause all kinds of strange electrical issues. If you don't know the age/condition, inspect and consider replacing the plugs/wires as well. My plugs were really worn and I suspect they were original.

If the coil is good, my next guess would be the speed sensor.
 

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Breathing. Alive?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plugs and wires were replaced a few months back so I'll take a look at the ignition coil and see if that's the problem. How much would replacing it cost if that's what's causing it?
 

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Less than $100. I think mine was right around $90 at Napa. People here prefer the Motorcraft one, I went to Napa because it was in town and I didn't want to wait for the part.
 

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Breathing. Alive?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Whoop more expenses. Well thank you. I'll check the ignition coil today or tomorrow and see what's up.
 

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I know what you mean, I bought mine maybe a month ago and it had a few little irritating yet optional things that needed work. Easy weekend project, I thought to myself, but then I started taking things apart and finding more stuff that needed to be done. Then my shifter cable end broke, leaving me without my new(er) car until I could replace it (the forum got a nice how-to from that one, though).

I'm still looking at a bad dpfe sensor and a tranny oil change once it gets a little warmer, but I'm going to put some miles on the car and make it earn its keep for a little while before spending any more on it.
 

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Breathing. Alive?
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I bought mine in July and spent about 600-700 on it during the first month or so for repairs they could not be avoided. First it was thermostat then it was the fuel injectors and then there was something else that I can't remember right now. It still needs a timing belt, catalytic convertor, maybe the ignition coil, some new tires and perhaps breaks.

I been trying to sell the car if I can for the right price because I still need it for commuting so I'm not going to low just to get rid of it. Hopefully I can get rid of it with some decent cash in hand to put a partial down payment on something else.

So if the ignition coil isn't that bad and won't cause major problems, I won't bother with the replacement.
 

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If you've finally got it in a reliable state, why sell it just to get something else you have to dump 500-1000 in to make it reliable? When young I bought what I could afford, made it reliable and then ran it into the ground or my needs changed. Now a days when I need a "new" vehicle I go for something <6kmiles, the theory is to let someone else pay for the initial depreciation, but I get to enjoy the new car reliability and get to maintain it right from the get go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Problem is that it's still not in a "reliable" state. Lol like I said it still needs a timing belt and from the look of the current belt, a new one should come soon, and there's little things here and there that should be fixed before I start driving it back and fourth from Sacramento. I'm just deciding whether it's worth it because let's say I put in another grand for timing belt, CAT, and breaks, how long till another repair comes up? It's good for getting around town but I don't know how it'll last. The previous owner did not treat this car well and that's probably why I got it for 1700 when every other focus I see is going for well over 2500. I've also been thinking about leasing something for the time being since lease payments are cheap and I'll get to drive a brand new car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now with leasing there's always the option of keeping the Focus and slowly working on it.
 

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Don't forget that you're locked into a lease once it starts, no backing out until it ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'd get a MK3 focus or a fiesta. Something I would like to drive for the next three years.
 

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That's cool, just had to mention after getting sucked into one years ago that was SUPPOSED to be possible to get out of. Fine print that was only at the lender's option, stuck for the whole lease.
 

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So what's a lease going to run, $200/month? Put $200/month into repairing your car and in 6 months you should have a reliable car. Then you just do routine maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There's always that.
 

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So what's a lease going to run, $200/month? Put $200/month into repairing your car and in 6 months you should have a reliable car. Then you just do routine maintenance.


This is always a good option. However, your not always guaranteed that a repair will pop up that costs quite a bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And then there's that. Clutch could give out. The entire transmission maybe! Or anything else like that.
 

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Clutch, $800 job (where I'm from anyway) but the mtx-75 is a pretty good transmission. Actually, all Ford manual transmissions are good.



EDIT: derp! Mtx-75 is a Mazda product lmao
 
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