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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. Merry Christmas to everyone. I am looking for some help With a potential water pump leak. What are the sign and symptoms of a leaking pump? Also, has anyone replaced one on their own? Is it an easy-ish job? The car is my wife’s 2000 Ford Focus SE wagon. Thank you.
 

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Hello. Merry Christmas to everyone. I am looking for some help With a potential water pump leak. What are the sign and symptoms of a leaking pump? Also, has anyone replaced one on their own? Is it an easy-ish job? The car is my wife’s 2000 Ford Focus SE wagon. Thank you.
SPI (SOHC) or Zetec (DOHC) engine?

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SPI (SOHC) or Zetec (DOHC) engine?

Paul
ZETEC and I only notice the spot on the garage floor after she drives and parks it. I am wondering if it may be a coolant hose leak. The vehicle is 20 years old.
 

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It does not surprise me that your 20 year old vehicle is leaking. Radiator, hoses, water pump, etc - all are suspect. Before suspecting/replacing any components you need to put the vehicle up on jack stands and do a thorough inspection to determine the source of the leak.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Exactly, anything 20 years old will wear out, dry rot, etc. I agree I will do a good inspection. I always have a habit of assuming to the worse scenario. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just checked out the car for the coolant leak. No visible drops formed, a little moisture in the water pump area, but no puddles or drips forming on areas below water pump. No visible coolant leaks on hoses or radiator. No visible change in the coolant level either and I check it weekly.

Like I said, this is my wife's car that she drives may be 20 miles a week. I don't want to rush into changing any parts yet until I know for sure what needs to be replaced.
 

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I’d spray the area(s) you suspect are leaking with brake clean. Spray them until they are as pristine clean as possible. It may take a few iterations of spraying to get them super clean.

Once clean, watch those areas for moisture build up to identify the true source of the leak. It may take awhile to find the source but it sounds like you’re already close to identifying it.

When spraying with brake clean, I’ll wrap electrical connectors with a plastic bag to minimize the amount of moisture that could seep in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks beratta96. I will be cleaning things up this weekend. Thanks for the tip about wrapping the wires, I don't need to cause another issue. Any tips on cleaning around the water pump? The way things are set up it is very hard to get to. Maybe an old toothbrush or tiny paint brush would do the trick?
 

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Three possible sources of leak. Thermostat, water pump, and a cracked plastic coolant tube at the top front of the engine compartment.

Valve cover gasket can be a problem too, if oil leaks down around the thermostat housing. I had to replace both, and a cracked coolant tube too. No more leaks now, oil or coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for the info src153. I never even thought about the thermostat.
 

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@3sons Sorry for not being timely with my response. I've been distracted by holiday related activities. Regarding cleaning around the thermostat....

It's pretty tight around there with a goodly amount of electrical connections. I'd cover the electrical connections the best I could and spray the freak out of stuff with brake clean. I'd do the same with the water pump. Removing the pulley shield will make your covering/spraying efforts much easier.
 

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Thank you for the info src153. I never even thought about the thermostat.
?
10 months ago you wrote (at another thread you started on this subject):

Okay. I had the local garage check my vehicle. The performed a pressure test and discovered that it was a leak at the thermos housing. Has anyone replaced one? Seems somewhat easier than a water pump. Again, the question, how long can I drive it with a minor leak coming from the thermostat housing? Anyone have any experiences with a similar issue?
Thermostats dont leak - thermostat housings leak (thermostat is inside the thermostat housing).

Paul
 

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I didn't see that thread. But yes, I had a "thermostat leak" and replaced the assembly. As Paul says that includes the housing.

The only mechanic experience I have is working on my own car. If I could do it, it must not be too hard. That was several years ago, with an aftermarket part. No leaks since.
 

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tE8-qGeNBc

That's a video on Focus thermostat housing replacement. His new part includes the thermostat but maybe not all do. Be sure what you're buying.

I also replaced the three bolts, but it was so long ago I don't remember why.

Hoses could be a problem. At 20 years old they may fall apart with handling. Be prepared for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry for the late replies. So with my old post the local garage did tell me the thermostat housing was leaking, but I have never seen a leak coming from the area or even originating form the thermostat housing. The leak has always been under the side where the water pump is. Well, yesterday I spent some time under the car, cleaned it up, ran it and then laid underneath and waited and watched. Within a few minutes I seen a tiny drip form from the water pump weep hole. The next step is obviously to change the water pump. I am pretty confident I can do it, but I will have to get creative with my jacks (dropping the engine lower, raising the car, etc). I am using this video as my guide.

 

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I just replaced my water pump on my SVTF a few months ago...while the front was on car ramps.

There's a way to remove & install without having to mess with the motor mounts and any jacks:

All you need to do is remove the four bolts that hold the A/C compressor and use bungee-cord to hold up & away [sorta speak]
slowly wiggle/flip the water pump assembly... will take 20 minutes to fiddle with it... it WILL slide out.... but do it slowly & watch how it slid out.

Because you're gonna try to wiggle it back in the same way it came out. Again for me it took another 20 minutes to wiggle/play before I could bolt it on/in.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh sweet. Thanks for the tip SVT. I will gladly wiggle it around for 20 minutes to avoid potential issues.
 

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It's easier with the motor mount removed. That's what Sue does in the video. Beware of shortcuts. They can put you in a bind. You should also replace the belt tensioner and pulley, the idler pulley, and the belt, all in the same job.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the advice src. To you think I can get the pump out without lowering the engine or jacking the car up too high?
 
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