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Discussion Starter #1
2004 SVT. Replaced front pads and now have brake, traction control, ABS lights staying on. When taking off the master cylinder cap the wires were kinda short so tugged a"little" on it. I'm know the wire can be disconnected but I get kind impatient trying to unlock those things. My bad. No evidence of a broken wire so?
 

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Maybe you "nicked" or have debris on the actual ABS sensors that are mounted on the knuckle behind the rotors... Or disconnected somewhere

You will have to throw your SVTF on ramps or pull the wheel/rim off to inspect...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. No codes showing. I have no real history on this car but see no evidence of abs on the front. Must be missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ABS, traction control, and emergency brake light all stay on. Scanned again, no codes. I'm new at this SVT business so dumb questions. Is the Focus SVT 2 or 4 wheel ABS. As previously stated all I did was replace the front pads and the light show began.
 

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Thats What She Said
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There is no connection from the ECU to the traction control or ABS. I was fighting this when trying to figure out why my lights were coming on when driving on wet conditions.

Check connections, clean stuff up, use dielectric grease .

I had an issue where something happened after I put my SVT back together. When driving in the snow or raidn my ABS and traction lights come on. There are no pids or ECU registers that hold or talk to the ABS system other than a health pin for it works or not does not work. I isolated it down to the passage side by driving along a road that had melted snow and only half the road was wet. Then took a guess and replaced the driver side sensor first. It works now.

So I recommend look at each sensor, clean everything, use dielectric grease. And try to isolate. Go to the junk yard and puck up a spare front and a spare rear sensor and then try swapping around.
 

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.....I'm new at this SVT business so dumb questions. Is the Focus SVT 2 or 4 wheel ABS.......
All SVTF's have 4-wheel ABS system, but like others said maybe you need the actual wheel sensors...

The sensor itself is a magnetic "stud" so they could have broke off or there is a-lot of material on it covering it up... That's where I would start first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the ideas. I'm gonna check them out. The code reader I use has ABS capabilities but nothing shows. Why couldn't this just be a fuse? Thanks again.
 

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Thats What She Said
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There is a fuse for the ABS, have you not checked that yet? would have thought that was the first thing you checked before posting asking for help.

the ABS and Traction control has NOTHING with the ECU to "read" the ABS or traction control. Other than a single line that says (working or not working)

The sensor on the reservoir I do not believe would cause any issues with putting an ABS or Traction control light on. You would get a brake warning or engine warning light if the fluid was low.
 

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For the brake light that is only triggered by the E-brake or the reservoir sensor being low or broken. The brake light is independent of the ABS or traction control. You may be fighting two items if you have all 3 lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Makes sense. I'll have to see what I've got now after replacing front sensors. Of course brake fluid level is correct and I can hear the "float" in the cap on the reservoir.
 

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Sensor might be bad or the connection poor. The E-brake handle can also stick depending on what and how previous owners cleaned or spilled stuff around the e-brake handle.

Every focus I have had the cap on the brake reservoir is quite tight and taking it off and on can put quite a bit of stress on the connector.

Not sure if it impacts the Traction Control or ABS but you may want to look at a full bleed of the system. I think if there are air pockets in the ABS controller / valve / manifold then it can cause problems. if you kept the system closed then you "should" not have gotten air but perhaps the pushing of the caliper back in for the break job disturbed some stuff.

I recommend the TYP-200 fluid or for a more local purchase the O'Reilly auto's Best Break Select DOT 4 fluid (actually rates in the top 5 IIRC for wet and dry boiling points) Then there is also the HD Ford brake fluid which is also good.

If after replacing sensors, checking the cap sensor, I would do a full system bleed with fresh fluid.
 
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