[Talbjw83]

I have re-timed this damn car 4 times within 2 weeks. I keep receiving the p1381 and p1383 codes. I have followed all of the instructions, crank against the pin, bar in, and VCT gear at positive dead stop. I re did it again tonight and still got a damn code. I do not understand what the hell is going on! I apologize for the verbal abuse but wow. So frustrating!!! I have read just about everything that there is to read and just did the directions to the T. If your reading this Tom, PM me about the VCT Elim kit. There is no way that I have done anything wrong.. and it still is doing this. Last time I buy a car with a VCT gear unless its new...

[?|]

 

[SVTF410]

I have seen many people have issues with this. I just did mine about 5k ago and it was good the first time luckily. I'm not sure if this is the proper way or not but this could help, i tightened the cam gears to spec with the cam bar in. I was told that could break the back of the cam off(not sure how true that is). But that was the best way that i saw to do it cause with out doing that the cam seems like it moved to much. But then again I've been told that the cam gears don't have to be taken loose. Sorry my rambling on probably didn't help at all but that's my .02

 

[iminhell]

Cam gears have to be taken loose. There is no if's and's or but's about this.

and because someone will say 'well I didn't and turned out fine'. Does Not Matter. You loosen them to avoid doing them twice, and when it's someone doing a T belt that might not be as mechanically apt as you, you tell them the correct way and only the correct way.


So, time them again. Loosen both cam bolts (not just the cover on the intake cam, the bolt).
Tension the belt and tighten the tensioner down.
Tighten the Exhaust cam bolt.
Tighten the intake cam bolt.

I use a Monkey Wrench to hold the cam while TQing the bolts.
Yes, the ears on the cams will break. I've broke 4 now on my own car. Do not use the cam bar alone to hold the cams.

 

[Shaddow_wolf169]

Cam bars will break the cam ends. Like I said when I did mine I bleed of all the oil pulled the bolt completely out of intake cam. Even after I though I bled all the oil out a bunch still came out. Also did not have my VCT sensor in the cam cap.

 

[Talbjw83]

Thanks for the responses. I did loosen the cam gears and held the cam with a 1" wrench to keep them in place. I did not try to take out the VCT sensor. I guess I will have to try this again while doing that. I have re-timed all my other cars and never had such problems as this. The VCT gear makes things very difficult. Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[Missourileo]

Don't look at it as the dreaded"VCT" gear............... it's a cam gear. Take the cap off, loosen both gears. make sure you put the belt on clockwise, keeping tension on the crank, so it doesn't rotate away from the crank pin.

 

[SVTF410]

I use a Monkey Wrench to hold the cam while TQing the bolts.
Yes, the ears on the cams will break. I've broke 4 now on my own car. Do not use the cam bar alone to hold the cams.

Good to know, guess i got lucky mine didn't break.

 

[Talbjw83]

Cam gears have to be taken loose. There is no if's and's or but's about this.

and because someone will say 'well I didn't and turned out fine'. Does Not Matter. You loosen them to avoid doing them twice, and when it's someone doing a T belt that might not be as mechanically apt as you, you tell them the correct way and only the correct way.


So, time them again. Loosen both cam bolts (not just the cover on the intake cam, the bolt).
Tension the belt and tighten the tensioner down.
Tighten the Exhaust cam bolt.
Tighten the intake cam bolt.

I use a Monkey Wrench to hold the cam while TQing the bolts.
Yes, the ears on the cams will break. I've broke 4 now on my own car. Do not use the cam bar alone to hold the cams.

To respond to your post. I have taken both of the gears loose, just not off completely, and then proceeded with the timing. I know that you have to take the cover off of the intake(VCT) gear because that is how you drain the oil out of the gear.. I have done it correctly, which is why I am considering that the VCT gear itself might be bad. For some reason the car keeps going out of timing and throwing the code.

 

[Talbjw83]

Don't look at it as the dreaded"VCT" gear............... it's a cam gear. Take the cap off, loosen both gears. make sure you put the belt on clockwise, keeping tension on the crank, so it doesn't rotate away from the crank pin.

I try not to look at it that way but when you the VCT gear is putting the timing off every time that I re-time it, it begins to become annoying very quickly. I have done the procedure about 5 times now and it still puts up the code. The gear would be great if it was working correctly but I am pretty sure that it is not.

 

[1turbofocus]

You DO NOT TAKE THE VCT GEAR LOOSE this only causes more issues and as you can see it didnt help at all to take it loose but now you have more issues to deal with to get it back right
Why people that say to take the VCT gear loose and more then likely has installed less then 5 of them just amazes me

iminhell why is it you say they have to be taken off ?, I have installed DOZENS of them with NOT taken them loose and less then 1% I have to redo

Tom

 

[Shaddow_wolf169]

I already took mine loose before I found out you don't have to then I tighten the cams gears after i made sure I had the crank resting up on the pin. The hard part is getting it to positive dead stop.

 

[Missourileo]

You DO NOT TAKE THE VCT GEAR LOOSE
Why people that say to take the VCT gear loose and more then likely has installed less then 5 of them just amazes me
Tom

Tom, not trying to argue, but following the ford workshop manual section 303 has done it fine for me every time.

This is from the Ford workshop manual Section 303

27. NOTE: Use an open ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.
Loosen the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.

Installation
1. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts. The camshaft timing pulleys must be able to turn freely on the camshafts.
Turn the camshafts to the ignition position on cylinder No. 1 and insert the special tool into the camshafts.

2. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder No. 1.

3. Remove the blanking plug, install the special tool.

4. CAUTION: Do not kink the timing belt (do not bend the timing belt less than a diameter of 35 mm).
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft, check that it is still resting against the timing pin.
NOTE: The lug of the belt tensioner must not be hooked into the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.
Install a new timing belt.
• Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise install the timing belt, keeping it under tension.

5. CAUTION: Incorrect timing belt tension will result in incorrect valve timing.
Pretension the timing belt.
1. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
2. Position the hexagonal key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
3. Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hexagonal key.

6. CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.
Using the hexagonal key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment).

7. Tighten the bolt, while holding the adjusting washer in position.

8. NOTE: Use an open ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.
Tighten the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.

9. NOTE: Use an open ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.
Install the intake camshaft pulley blanking plug.

10. Remove the special tool.

11. Remove the special tool 303-465 from the camshafts.
12. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft two revolutions in the normal direction of rotation.
Check the valve timing by inserting the special tool. Correct it if necessary.
• Install the special tool and make sure that the it is contact with the crankshaft.
• Install the special tool into the camshafts; if necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
• Remove the special tools.
13. Install the special tool.

14. Install the spark plugs.

 

[1turbofocus]

I know what Ford sais to do and I get 8-10 calls a year from Ford dealers that cannot get things to work like there told to do it

Ever one thinks the gear can go on the cam just anywhere and everyone needs to do what works for them

Tom

 

[jasonbi]

This is from the Ford workshop manual Section 303

i think that only applies to the regular z tec motor(non-vtc)...but i could be wrong. the ford workshop manual that i have does not reference the svt motor at all in the timing section.

 

[Missourileo]

It covers the vct

 

[1turbofocus]

i think that only applies to the regular z tec motor(non-vtc)...but i could be wrong. the ford workshop manual that i have does not reference the svt motor at all in the timing section.

THANK YOU ! I have said that till I am tired of saying it and I agree with you

Tom

 

[Talbjw83]

I know that everyone has their own specific preferences to do the timing correctly but is there any distinctive way to correctly do this? I dont even mind if you all post your own ways to do this, I will try them all at this point. I REALLY need to get this fixed, I cant pass inspection without it.. I know if I take it to a Ford place they are going to charge me through the roof.. I really would prefer to do this myself. Any help would be appreciated!

 

[1turbofocus]

Give me a call 704-249-3745 I will try to help

Tom

 

[Justin svt]

Tom knows what hes talking about I timed my svt with pin and bar. used a paint marker to mark the gears to the belt and transfered the markeing onto the new belt (count teeth to be sure) and lined everything back up. put tension onit and it works like a charm did the same for my old zetec too

 

[samus]

Have you tested the VCT solenoid? Check its resistance while throttling with the throttle body under the hood. The workshop manual might have the reference ohms in it.

I wouldn't go and replace it blindly, that bugger is crazy expensive.