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un1corn
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Discussion Starter #1
So just like the title says, somehow my upper transmission mount stripped out the three bolts holding itself to the transmission. When I swapped from my 04 pzev transmission to an ST transmission last year the shop had to swap the top trans tower mount so i'm wondering if they either A.) didn't torque them enough or B.) over torqued them to the point that they started stripping and then they gave away today.


The bolt holes do not look completely stripped out, but when i looked at the bolts they had some metal in the threads indicating that some of the threads on the transmission housing were stripped. The "front right" bolt still threads into the transmission but not smoothly. The "front left" bolt does not thread into the transmission. I was unable to try the rear bolt.



What are your thoughts as to a possible cause? I'm not normally one to point fingers but i can't recall ever reading about this issue on the forums, it makes me think the shop did somethign wrong. Do i have any grounds to try and make them cover fixing it? Is it safe to retap the holes in the transmission, or as a friend recommended, weld and then retap? Is the transmission housing just screwed and i need to find another one?


Funny thign is this happened literally right in front of the transmission shop that did my work last year...



only pictures i have right now, sorry


 

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Bad news bears
 

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C2H5OH
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I'd drill and tap new threads. Seems to be plenty meat there to hold.

And I'd say the trans shop did screw it up, even though it's next to impossible to cross thread those bolts. Over TQ would be likely, or maybe the pitch is different for some reason, though can't imagine it would be.
 

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un1corn
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Discussion Starter #4
I honestly don't have the means to properly drill and tap those threads.

Hm, there's really no way to prove that they screwed it up though right? I'll be honest i dont feel like paying for this. I know "shit happens" but this obviously isn't my fault, and shit like this does't just happen.

Im pretty much boned until i talk to them tomorrow..
 

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Mining in the cave
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5,935 Posts
E you could drill and tap them to a larger size. Or you could helicoil them with the original size.

More than likely the shop hammered the bolts home with an impact when they worked on it weakening the threads.
 

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un1corn
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Discussion Starter #6
Well at least the consensus is that the transmission housing isn't boned. I figured that they probably just impacted the shit out of them..
 

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NeedsMoarEverything
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That bites E, its all that torque.
 

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NeedsMoarEverything
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we've all been dropping like flies.
 

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I think they were overtorqued.

A threaded insert would be the strongest fix.

The advantage of a threaded insert is that it uses common drill and tap sizes not the special size for a helicoil.........
 

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Sooooooooooo EURO
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14,708 Posts
Can you clear this part up for me?


The bolt holes do not look completely stripped out, but when i looked at the bolts they had some metal in the threads indicating that some of the threads on the transmission housing were stripped. The "front right" bolt still threads into the transmission but not smoothly. The "front left" bolt does not thread into the transmission. I was unable to try the rear bolt.



I get the front right but what about the front left? is it just a hole but the threads are fubar'd to the point you can't get a bolt in or did the bolt physically break off?
My thought would be if they are both open holes the right will be easy to clean up just run whatever tap size that thread is down the hole to clean your threads and give you a new start. It may still be possible to save the front left as well if there is still thread there by doing the same thing. A tap and tap handle is pretty cheap from Harbor freight and would be more than sufficient to do 2 holes as long as you go slow (half a turn in, quarter turn out, half a turn in, quarter turn out, repeat)

if there isnt enough material there to just run a tap down and R&R the threads the advantage of doing a helicoil would be that helicoil kits usually come with a drill bit etc so all you have to do is source a drill to borrow for half an hour. and you'd be good to go.
 

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Mining in the cave
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the advantage of doing a helicoil would be that helicoil kits usually come with a drill bit etc so all you have to do is source a drill to borrow for half an hour. and you'd be good to go.


Zactly.

Make sure to use some sort of oil when cutting threads with any tap in aluminum. Go slow, back the tap out when it binds to clear the treads.
 

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I would personally weld and tap -
 

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The best woud be to get a helicoil kit for the correct bolt size. drill and tap the holes and then insert the helicoils. The kit will have all you need except you may need to get more inserts. And always use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts to the proper torque.
 

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Thing outside of the box - if this guy doesn't even have a drill, do you really want him to try and install a helicoil and get it to hold properly?

I say call around and find a shop that can weld aluminum and have them just fill the holes up with weld and then bolt the bracket down with the one good bolt, use it as a drill guide and them run a tap down the holes. Tapping aluminum is very easy and a beginner can handle it.
 

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Sooooooooooo EURO
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Thing outside of the box - if this guy doesn't even have a drill, do you really want him to try and install a helicoil and get it to hold properly?

I say call around and find a shop that can weld aluminum and have them just fill the holes up with weld and then bolt the bracket down with the one good bolt, use it as a drill guide and them run a tap down the holes. Tapping aluminum is very easy and a beginner can handle it.
we install helicoils at work on a daily basis any monkey that understands righty tighty lefty loosey can install a helicoil properly. As far as that goes if he really doesnt want to tackle it himself he could have a shop install the helicoil quite cheaply

I guess I'm not that familiar with welding but I'm worried about the following things:
- how would the shop ensure they had cleaned all the grease/dirt/contaminants out of a hole before they started filling it with weld.

-how would they ensure they've completely filled the hole without leaving pockets in it? (especially since its fairly deep and only accessible from one side)

-how much heat would it take to get proper penetration on a huge aluminum heatsinking part like a transmission?

-would that heat warp or make the transmission mounting area more brittle?
 

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Hatch Nation #136
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2,043 Posts
Helicoil.

If you can't helicoil, call over a friend to helicoil with you.

It is not rocket science and welding is a bit of overkill in this situation.

Unless the shop that put in your transmission is going to pay for it. Then get a whole new tranny on their tab.
 

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Helicoil.

If you can't helicoil, call over a friend to helicoil with you.

It is not rocket science and welding is a bit of overkill in this situation.

Unless the shop that put in your transmission is going to pay for it. Then get a whole new tranny on their tab.
After you do the first hole with the helicoil you will be a seasoned veteran. Done properly it will be alot stronger than any weld hack job especially on aluminum.
 

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My view must be tainted, as I've always had access to welders and fixed things properly. Go the heli-coil route - whatever suites you best.
 
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