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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone upgraded just the stabilizer bars and not the other suspension components? If so, please tell me what brand you used and your thoughts on whether or not it is a worthwhile upgrade.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Has anyone upgraded just the stabilizer bars and not the other suspension components? If so, please tell me what brand you used and your thoughts on whether or not it is a worthwhile upgrade.
No, I've always done springs & dampers 1st or dampers only & then sway bars. Bars are more a tuning device to work w/ your springs/dampers. Have you thought of changing out your dampers?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not wanting to do a wholesale changeout of the suspension right now. Perhaps later on when the OEM shocks and struts are worn I would consider a changeout. I figure the stabilizer bars might be something I could do now to improve cornering at relatively low cost.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I'm not wanting to do a wholesale changeout of the suspension right now. Perhaps later on when the OEM shocks and struts are worn I would consider a changeout. I figure the stabilizer bars might be something I could do now to improve cornering at relatively low cost.
Have you looked at Steeda? And how far would you go? To add the ST rear bar you'd need to change out the spindles (uprights). I don't know what size front bar is on the ST w/o looking it up.
 

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The Professor
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Best bang for the buck in swaybars is the 26mm factory rear sway bar from the 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3. It is solid so it is as effective as many hollow 32mm bars and can be had for $50-$80 used. I had the Steeda bar on my 2012, and switched to the MS3 bar. Major improvement over the Steeda bar and a HUGE improvement over stock. The stock front bar is plenty for the N/A MK3 IMHO when coupled with this rear sway bar.

For a very effective and inexpensive suspension setup look into stock ST front struts, stock Titanium handling package rear shocks, the 2010+ MS3 rear sway bar with Energy Suspension bushings or stock MS3 bushings if in good shape, FRPP springs, or even better for handling with a sacrifice in ride, use 2010+ MS3 stock springs with one coil cut off the front. Same lowering as the FRPP springs, but much better handling.

I ended up with the FRPP springs coupled with the other parts listed above because I got a sweet deal on the springs. The MS3 ones handled better, but the FRPP ones rode better and were more compliant on rough WV roads.
 

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The Professor
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I used Energy suspension bushings with the MS3 bar on my MK3 Focus, but that was mainly because the one I bought used did not include bushings. I would not hesitate to give the stock MS3 brackets and bushings a try. The bushings are a heavy EPDM rubber (high duro) and the brackets are much stronger than aftermarket ones.

Just a suggestion.
 

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#dailydriven
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No, I've always done springs & dampers 1st or dampers only & then sway bars. Bars are more a tuning device to work w/ your springs/dampers. Have you thought of changing out your dampers?
Sorry i'm new to upgrading suspension. i know what the struts are in the front and the shocks are in the back but what are dampers?
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Sorry i'm new to upgrading suspension. i know what the struts are in the front and the shocks are in the back but what are dampers?
Dampers is another word for struts/shocks.
 

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#dailydriven
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O okay, good to know!
 

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Best bang for the buck in swaybars is the 26mm factory rear sway bar from the 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3. It is solid so it is as effective as many hollow 32mm bars and can be had for $50-$80 used. I had the Steeda bar on my 2012, and switched to the MS3 bar. Major improvement over the Steeda bar and a HUGE improvement over stock. The stock front bar is plenty for the N/A MK3 IMHO when coupled with this rear sway bar.

For a very effective and inexpensive suspension setup look into stock ST front struts, stock Titanium handling package rear shocks, the 2010+ MS3 rear sway bar with Energy Suspension bushings or stock MS3 bushings if in good shape, FRPP springs, or even better for handling with a sacrifice in ride, use 2010+ MS3 stock springs with one coil cut off the front. Same lowering as the FRPP springs, but much better handling.

I ended up with the FRPP springs coupled with the other parts listed above because I got a sweet deal on the springs. The MS3 ones handled better, but the FRPP ones rode better and were more compliant on rough WV roads.
Will the ms3 rear bar work with our mk3 endlinks? Also, I've heard conflicting reports that adding a rear sway bar on a base model mk3 makes it unstable without upgrading shocks/springs. Is there any truth to this?
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Will the ms3 rear bar work with our mk3 endlinks? Also, I've heard conflicting reports that adding a rear sway bar on a base model mk3 makes it unstable without upgrading shocks/springs. Is there any truth to this?
I'd do the springs & dampers 1st & then do the bars.
 

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Will the ms3 rear bar work with our mk3 endlinks? Also, I've heard conflicting reports that adding a rear sway bar on a base model mk3 makes it unstable without upgrading shocks/springs. Is there any truth to this?
I have the Steeda RSB on my car, everything else suspension wise is stock for now. I would say that it makes the car handle neutral. It is tuned from the factory with some under-steer built in. The steeda bar lets you do what you want (can under / over-steer depending on driver input)
 
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