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Already made the repair, thanks to Tilngot's post, and during the week I waited for the $160 Lock Housing Assembly part to arrive, I started the car with the screwdriver method, each time..

Tilngot's Post is the key; all in all, I had to remove NINE screws. The anti-theft screw, with the tip cut off at the factory, was loosened by taping a 3/8" cold chisel to it a few times, with a hammer.

Trust me, folks: If I can do this, ANYONE can.
 

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Ford Focus 2008 SES - Problem/Fix - Saved me $700

Issue: When I first purchased my car I could literally just tap the key and it would fire right up. Once it hit about 7 years old, it slowly got harder to start my car until it just wouldn't start at all when the key was fully cranked and I would have to push the key in and jiggle it just right in order to get it to start. When I called Ford they told me that the "cylinder" around the ignition had worn out and it would cost anywhere from $500-$700 to fix it.

After reading many reviews of the Ford Dealership screwing people for repairs that didn't even fix the "start issue" with many Ford Focus's I decided to try a few things before going into the dealership.

I had first replaced the ignition for $24 on Amazon (re-keyed it to my key), then when that didn't work I narrowed the issue down to a power issue somewhere around the steering column. When you would fully crank the key you could hear something engaging but whatever it was wasn't getting power to the starter. I thought it was the anti theft sensor that went bad but after replacing that (found from junk yard because Ford only sells this piece in a $145 rebuild kit) the issue still wasn't fixed.

After further diagnostics, I discovered that this piece (Ignition Starter Switch, on the left side of steering column, type into Amazon: Dorman 924-867 Ignition Switch) was loose and if you pushed it in (and held it in place) ever so slightly the car would start right up.

I would suggest, if you are having this issue with your car to start here then move to ignition if it doesn't work. If there is any wiggle to the Ignition Starter Switch then this is more then likely your problem. There are tons of videos on this on YouTube too.
 

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2010 Ford Focus SE, Ignition; turn key 3 or 4 times to start

Not a world-class motorhead here...I know just enough about working on cars to be dangerous. Any genuine assistance will be greatly appreciated. Here's the deal...I have a 2010 Ford Focus SE with 151K on the odometer. Everything is good to go except: I have to repeatedly turn the key in the switch before the car will start. Battery, starter and alternator all check out. What gives? Starter solenoid? Ignition Control Module?
 

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Either the ignition switch, or the ignition lock cylinder (both in your steering column), needs to be replaced; former will run you around $30 online or at a major auto part retailer (Napa, AutoZone, etc.). The latter, around $150 (online cheaper).

You can repair both yourself; if I could, you can. And I'm not a gear head.

If the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced: on this forum, there is a post of someone who fixed it on his daughter's car: in that post, he explains how you can "hot wire" your car to start with a slotted screwdriver, while you wait for the part to be shipped to you. I used this post to make the repair.

If the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced, roughly nine screws will need to be removed and replaced, to fix it; if the ignition switch, five screws will need to be removed and replaced

Watch this video on YouTube: "2010 Ford Focus Ignition Switch Replaced" : it's a great video that will tell you what you need to do to replace the ignition switch. I did it, and for about a year - 18 mos., I didn't have starting problems, until the same issue occurred, and I realized I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder.

(Parts are made of plastic or a low-grade metal, which wear; parts need to wear down, so the manufacturer can sell you replacement parts. If they were more durable, they wouldn't need to be replaced as often, lowering the number of replacement parts sold, and thus reducing their profit.)

The video - as well as others on YouTube (there is one of a lock cylinder replacement on a Ford Escape - regardless the model, the repair is the same) - and the post the father placed on this forum, helped me save $600 or more, from taking it to the dealer/shop to repair it.

Watch the video, and replace the ignition switch, first. Then see what happens. If you still have starting problems, then it's the ignition lock cylinder that needs to be replaced, and if so, return the ignition switch for a refund; a new switch will be in the lock cylinder replacement.

Seriously: You can make this repair. Won't take longer than an hour (and that's plenty of time).
 

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CatManDeux.....a thousand thanks for the info! Watched the video, ordered the part. Took about 20 minutes to be all good again. Thanks for saving me about $650 bucks! The dealership quoted me $97 for the part (AutoZone $42) and the rest was in the labor.
 

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My pleasure! Actually, send Thanks to the fellow that posted the video on YouTube. Without him, we both would be out of pocket, Big Time! Also, this might happen again, down the road. If you replace the ignition switch that you just installed, and have the same problem, then the next step is probably replacing the ignition lock cylinder (you key fill feel "loose" when placed into the ignition, not tight, as if it were new).

Best wishes,

CatManDeaux
 

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I had ordered an assembly as referred to in your post. I had to cut a slot in the bolt using a file and a small metal hack saw blade (fine tooth) I was able to make a cut that fit a flat head screw driver in the slot don't bother turning it just tap the screwdriver with a hammer a few times it will loosen the locktite around the headless bolt. I ordered that assemble through amazon and was able to get a new bolt with a head on it and locktite for a few dollars more. So far the advice/suggestion has been spot on in all the details and has been a great post to troubleshoot the problem. kudo's/props to you sir.
 

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I am still wondering what you found wrong with your ignition system? Did the information below from a previous post help you??

Just wanted to pass this along. I spent the last two days trouble shooting/repairing my daughters car. It was taking multiple times to turn the key to get the starter to energize. At first it happened once in a while. Over time the problem became more frequent. She let it go too long and finally called Dad when the ignition failed to energize the starter at all.

The Focus is a 2008 SE bought new with 77,000 miles on it now. I believe this is the first year for the newer body style. She has a sales route with frequent stops and starts her car 30 to 40 times daily so her starting system gets much more cycle time than a normal car.

First, the starter was removed and checked out OK. The starter relay was switched and OK. The neutral safety switch (is a multi function switch) is located on the side of the trans at the shift linkage lever was not touched except to pull the plug, clean and replace.

The starter switch is located on the left side of the steering column directly behind the turn signal switch, it was replaced $43, still no start with the key. (I learned after to remove the starter switch but keep the wires plugged into it. Turn the key to run, insert a screw driver into the starter switch turn it all the way and the car would start.)

The key tumbler felt Ok but it was removed and taken to a locksmith who verified it was OK. However he informed me that a local repair shop had just had the same problem last week and the shop came to them. The locksmith worked on a new cylinder for the shop but that did not fix their problem either.

Since the repair shop was just down the road as I stopped to talk to them. They told me last week they did everything I did on a Ford Escape and finally had to replace the lock housing assembly that wraps around the steering column just behind the turn signal assembly. The lock housing assembly holds the key cylinder on the right and the starter switch on the left and also helps the steering wheel to lock when removing the key.

For just under $150 I ordered the lock housing assembly (part # 9L8Z-3511-A) from the Ford dealer. It comes with the starter switch installed (now I have three of them)but you must use your old keys and lock cylinder. The replacement lock housing assembly can be installed without removing the steering wheel. Here is how....

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the steering columns, top and bottom cover and the drivers knee panel under the dash.
Unplug the starter switch on the left side of the column.
Remove the security ring from around the key tumbler by unsnapping it from the housing. Electrical is done.

Three small bolts hold the lock housing onto the turn signal assembly. One bolt is on top, one on the bottom left and one on the right/front. You must use your key to unlock the steering column and turn the wheel to the right to allow access the right/front bolt. Remove all three.

Last, on top of the steering column you will notice an aluminum collar that holds the lock housing assembly in place. On the right side of this collar it is bolted to the steering column by only one anti-theft bolt without a head. (The head of the bolt is gone, designed to break off at the factory when installed for anti-theft reasons so normal tools cannot be used to remove it.) Ours had yellow paint on it. Use a small, very sharp chisel to tap the side of the bolt counter clockwise to loosen it and take it out. DO NOT LOSE IT! You cannot get a replacement.

You should be able to lift up the aluminum collar and remove the old housing assembly.

To use your existing keys you must remove the old tumbles. Put the key into the lock cylinder and turn it one notch only, to the accessory position. On top of the cylinder is a small hole. Put a small torx socket (or nail) in it, push down, pull on the key to remove the tumbler cylinder from the old housing. Put the old tumbler in the new lock housing assembly.

OK, reverse everything and you are done. The hardest part of reassembly was getting the bottom steering column cover back on. I ended cutting a slot on the bottom of it to get it around the steering wheel tilt lever.

I did not find any information on this problem in my internet searches. However, I feel that as these cars age, over time many others will be having the same starting problems caused by the internal moving parts of the linkage within this housing wearing and getting sloppy. The linkage gets loosen up enough that when you turn the key on the right side, the starter switch on the left does not quite make contact to start.
This was so spot on in just about every way he talks of this, further reviews may consider that this is a problem but not problematic enough for the big wig company to do something. I just hope that I don't have it again was kind of a pain but with the new bolt in place it will be much easier. lol thanks again. back in the good graces agian. ;)
 
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