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Will so far she took it to a repair shop They did something then it went to Ford to have something programed.Ford said it wasn't the problem and said there is 2 things wrong and will cost $660.00.I forwards post #10 to my Sister and her fatherinlaw to have them see the fix.I offord to try the trick to testand replace the part you listed no. the ex brother inlaw is involved and is haven Ford fix it.
 

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Here is what I found out the first place changed something she thinks the switch charged $325.00 then it needed to go to Ford to reprogram the PATS.Ford checked it out then replaced the part you did 978Z-3511-A Housing $147.00 for the part then it was like $413. LABOR. It says they pulled the wheel to replace part.There was also mention of a lock module.So either the first shop messed up something or Ford did another thing that listed no part number.Its fixed now shes happy.THanks for the info on your findings hope it saves more people money and time.Oh her car has around 88,000 miles also and she had to press the key hard to get it to catch
 

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I love it when a plan comes together[cheers]. The headless bolt is supposed to be an anti theft device. I do not know if it would be a standard type thread or not. Now you can keep the car.
To add a little more information, just completed this repair and everything works fine. With the info you provided, I found the part online for just under $120 delivered.
Once the large bolt was removed, I found a compatible replacement that was 8mm with 1.25 thread. I found a bolt with an allen key slot in the top that fit perfectly, a hex head is too big.
The other screws are all metric, as well. Most were 5.5 mm except one furthest back under the steering wheel was 7mm.
I also had a problem swapping the key cylinder. The new part had a slightly different piece at the bottom of the cylinder slot and I couldn't get the cylinder to fit all the way in. I finally took the retaining ring off the backside of the key cylinder and it fit fine. Didn't see what the ring actually did, other than a spacer.
Good luck!
 

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TiIngot,

I have the same issue with my wife's 2008 focus. Your instructions are clear, But I have a problem, I removed the cover from around the steering column, located the ignition switch and pressed the tabs on the top and bottom to release, but can't pull it all the way out. The bottom of the switch is hitting an assembly just in front of it. I don't want to pry anything because I usually break things.

I noticed that on the "assembly" there is a screw, loosened it but can't shift it out of the way.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I want to test the switch before replacing the entire ignition assembly.
 

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It has been a year since I did the repair and I can not picture the screw you are referring to. I do know I did not need to remove any screws but the three holding the lock housing assembly to the turn signal assembly . If I had to guess the screw may have something to do with the turn signal assembly that is also in that area.

Just to make sure we are talking about the same "starter switch", it is sorta round in shape on the left side of the column. It is a little tight when you unclip it. Try to remove the wires from it first to see if that helps and does tilting the column up or down help (I don't remember, does the column tilt?)?

Also, I think as I pried out the starter switch the side the wires attach comes up and out first.

As a last resort, remove the entire lock housing assembly from the column and just pop out the starter switch. Then put the PATS security ring back onto the ignition key cylinder, insert and turn the key to run and use the screw driver it turn the starter switch to start the car.

Good Luck!!
 

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Question: If you remove the old key assembly and you simply remove the tumblers and re-insert the assembly that should work. Just that any key will turn but the car will not start unless you have the original programed key. Yes or No
 

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Yes

Defeating Lock that way and depending on PATS to prevent other keys from starting should work. You'd lose the locking functions, but a generic key couldn't start it & drive away.
 

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Edgenet - Please, let's not confuse the issue discussed in this post. To answer your question, yes, if you could remove the tumblers and return the key ignition switch back to the housing and use the original key the car should start if the tumblers were the problem.

However this post is discussing a diagnostic means to deternine if the "starter" switch is bad or if the housing holding the starter switch and ignition switch is bad.

If in previous posts I stated ignition switch then I was wrong. I should have referenced the starter switch that is located on the left side of the steering column.
 

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Added a switch

I have a 2008 Focus that was hard to start. I'd turn the key to the start position twisting inward and some times had to giggle it some to get the car to start. I purchased a new ignition switch and it seemed to help for a short while, but the problem came back. TiIngot is correct the problem is in the flange assembly, if you remove the ignition switch and look inside the flange assembly, you'll find the aluminum block has wallowed out and the stem that sticks though it wobbles. this is the source of the problem.
Replacing the key tumbler won't fix this and the tumbler issue is the key won't turn.

Instead of buying the $140 or so part, I added a momentary push button switch wired between the red/blue (12V) 3rd wire down and the blue/white (starter) last one at the bottom. Note: six wire connector left side of the steering wheel.

To "Start" insert key; turn to the run position and press switch to start the car.... easy pezy! $7
 

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Ignition problem continues

I have a 2010 and the same problem. My mechanic says that the dealership knows about the problem and keeps the parts on order because it is so common. Just past warantee and costing me $1100. Not happy.
 

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It has been a long time since I wrote my original post describing how I fixed my daughters car. I recommend printing my instructions, buying the part and getting a friend or local mechanic to fix it


Last time I checked a dealers labor rate was $125 per hour.
 

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I have a 2010 and the same problem. My mechanic says that the dealership knows about the problem and keeps the parts on order because it is so common. Just past warantee and costing me $1100. Not happy.
Welcome to the forum!

Just so I'm clear, the mechanic you mentioned - do they work at the dealership, or are they independent? Please let me know, along with your mileage.

Meagan
 

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I'm still looking for that car without defects! I once bought a 69 427 corvette only to be tagged weekly with hundred dollar bills on that pos. Only car I ever owned that ran perfect at times, other than break downs. I'll take my Focus 10x1 over other foreign and domestic rides. One has to remember what was paid for the Focus. THEY ALL BREAK DOWN!
 

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I've been using a screwdriver since 2013. I'll have to try your fix. I just realized today that the housing is a separate assembly, and then found your note on here. 5/22/2015.
BTW, my trouble started same way..intermittent, then after a couple weeks, nothing. Narrowed it down to starter switch, but everything worked with a flat screwdriver. I use a SnapOn stubby.
 

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Thanks TiIngot, from Feb 2013, I'm still using a screwdriver for the past two years. I thought the ignition housing was not removable.
 

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They all do break down but when you can plan on it that becomes totally different. With Focus cars based on the year model you can stock up ahead of time on certain parts to be 100% sure you will be using them in the future. That's failure that gets precariously close to lawsuit territory and one should not be defending that.

True break downs should be erratic and unexpected, now they use them to create vast revenue streams of parts sales. Meaning they are planned.

We had a '70 Corvette 454 4 speed and it broke nothing other than what we abused, ergo, any driveline part you can think of. Corvettes do NOT like to pull wheelies.
 

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button cars..

How hard would it be to make these button start cars. Dad had one on a 50 chevy and it ran for 156 K no problem . Trouble is not the manufacture. It's people that hang two pounds of hardware from their key fob and gorilla the finger bars (start switch) like Charles Atlas . Funny how old ideas ( push button switches ) come back around. Look at the new luxury vehicles today. jmo. cb.
 

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I have a 2009, and I haven't had any real problems outside of things like replacing the breaks and battery. Things did seem a little different after a wreck in 2010. I had some motor mounts replaced last year or maybe year before. I'm only recently having a problem similar to the original post. Sometimes I turn the key, and I get no crank. The lights come on, but no kind of ignition. I suspect an ignition switch, but I'm having it looked at soon.
 
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