Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So after lunching a connecting rod (on a downshift, in vacuum, hadn't hit more than 2 PSI all day), I am putting together a plan of action for building a new engine. A lot of the top end parts are still good, so I plan on reusing what I can.

Zetec block bored out to 85.5mm
JE 9.0:1 Asymmetrical Pistons
Eagle H Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
Gapless top ring, napier or reverse-taper second ring
ARP head and main studs, flywheel bolts
Crank balanced and counterweights profiled to reduce drag
1mm oversize intake, 2mm oversize exhaust valves
mild port and polish, mirror polish combustion chambers, port match head to SVT IM
Garrett GT28RS or GTX2863R (still deciding on this)
Tial MV-S external wastegate
Schedule 40 321 stainless header
304 stainless 2.5" all the way back
340 LPH fuel pump


I know I am overlooking something, so please chime in with anything you see missing.
 

·
I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
Joined
·
6,125 Posts
dont bore the block unless you have to so you have some wiggle room to bore it out later in case you scar a cylinder or something.

run a 3in exhaust. it will make a difference.

get a BAP

upgrade the springs in the head so you dont float the valves. i prefer the crower springs and retainers

may want to consider a clutch since its all gonna be apart anyway unless the one you're running is nice and fresh.

also hope you have LSD if not you really need to invest in that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Have a Spec stage 3+ clutch. Block I sourced has 216k miles on it, so I want it bored out to get a clean surface. I am running the OEM cams, but will consider the springs. Limited slip differential was already planned for. The G5M differentials are made of pot metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have thought about doing a 3" downpipe and upgrading the exhaust at a later date.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
So after lunching a connecting rod (on a downshift, in vacuum, hadn't hit more than 2 PSI all day), I am putting together a plan of action for building a new engine. A lot of the top end parts are still good, so I plan on reusing what I can.

Zetec block bored out to 85.5mm
JE 9.0:1 Asymmetrical Pistons
Eagle H Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
Gapless top ring, napier or reverse-taper second ring
ARP head and main studs, flywheel bolts
Crank balanced and counterweights profiled to reduce drag
1mm oversize intake, 2mm oversize exhaust valves
mild port and polish, mirror polish combustion chambers, port match head to SVT IM
Garrett GT28RS or GTX2863R (still deciding on this)
Tial MV-S external wastegate
Schedule 40 321 stainless header
304 stainless 2.5" all the way back
340 LPH fuel pump


I know I am overlooking something, so please chime in with anything you see missing.
Bearings, I suggest clevite77 series. Also look into Calico coatings for them. They're not much more. Contact Calico directly and they can sell you the bearing as well.

Run a ford OEM headgasket, I suggest SVT for lower compression or zx2 if not going lower. CFM is a good place to buy both of these.

Bore the block to whatever, zetec blocks are a dime a dozen. I have a spare oem block you can have if you want to built it before pulling your motor.

I suggest the gtx2863r or 67r, I defiantly love my GTX turbo.

Have the crank balanced, then have it balanced a second time with the flywheel bolted on it and have the flywheel drilled out the second time to balance it out.

Total seal rings are good

I would personally go oem head for awhile then JohnP your head or FR head. FR head has a spot for temp probe which is what I use with megasquirt.

This is all I have for now.
 

·
I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
Joined
·
6,125 Posts
i would recommend a borg warner extended tip turbo personally but im biased since im running one. this sucker is amazing the little bit ive driven it so far. i fiddled with the tune some myself since i cant figure out why my analog input for the wideband wont work and without that no tune update from tom for the moment but i can see the gauge in real time with my own eyes. the turbo i have is rated for 45psi if that gives an idea of how big it is and i have it limited to 10psi atm and even as big as it is it still makes boost wicked quick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
i would recommend a borg warner extended tip turbo personally but im biased since im running one. this sucker is amazing the little bit ive driven it so far. i fiddled with the tune some myself since i cant figure out why my analog input for the wideband wont work and without that no tune update from tom for the moment but i can see the gauge in real time with my own eyes. the turbo i have is rated for 45psi if that gives an idea of how big it is and i have it limited to 10psi atm and even as big as it is it still makes boost wicked quick
Max boost pressure has nothing to do with size has to do with the efficiencies of the impellers. GTX turbo's are rated for high psi as well. As far as your wideband gauge goes have you put a volt meter up to the analog out yet to see if its reading anything?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The GTX2863R looks to be a very good fit. I overlayed my airflow vs pressure ratio data compiled from a number of datalogs overtop the compressor efficiency map. I wish it looked a little clearer, but you can see where my airflow data fits into the map.

gtx2863comp.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
The GTX2863R looks to be a very good fit. I overlayed my airflow vs pressure ratio data compiled from a number of datalogs overtop the compressor efficiency map. I wish it looked a little clearer, but you can see where my airflow data fits into the map.

View attachment 84090

I've been debating back and forth between the 2863 and 2867. I haven't found any zetec results. I think that plot is the next best thing. Thanks for posting it. Good luck on the build.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top