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Discussion Starter #1
This TSB contains no new causes or solutions to the transmission shudder issue but it provides techs with a way to measure if the shudder is beyond a normal range for clutch engagement.

I won’t reprint the TSB here because of copyright, and it contains an embedded picture, but here is the TSB in a nutshell:

The issue is: Some 2011-2013 Fiesta and 2012-2013 Focus vehicles equipped with a DPS6 automatic transmission may exhibit an intermittent transmission clutch shudder on light acceleration from a stop.

Here is a synopsis of the service procedure:

Reprogram the PCM/TCM with the latest calibration files.

Initiate adaptive learning for the transmission range sensor, shift drum, and clutch.

Perform an adaptive drive cycle on vehicle.

If shudder condition is eliminated then release vehicle, otherwise:

With an IDS data logger connected, drive vehicle while monitoring APP (Accelerator Pedal Position). Keep APP between 18-30% and record a shudder event.

Use the playback feature of the IDS to graph the ISS (trans. Input Shaft Speed) and locate the shudder event on the graph. The shudder looks like a bulge of ringing waves on an otherwise straight ramp of increasing RPM (like a pig in a python or a small earthquake on a seismograph).

Measure the high and low peaks of the waves in the bulge to determine the maximum difference in RPM during the shudder.

If the maximum RPM difference during the shudder is less than 250 RPM then “no further action required. Clutch engagement shudder is operating within expected limits and a clutch replacement will not improve operation”, otherwise “replace the clutch, inner input shaft
and outer input shaft case seal.”
 

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why would there be a copyright issue for a TSB, when TSB should be and is public knowledge?
A TSB should be public knowledge, but they're not.

EDIT: I stand corrected?
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2012/07/technical-service-bulletins-now-available-to-the-public.html

Also, if they reset the car before they test the shudder, I could see there being some issues as a lot of people don't get the shudder until after a few hundred miles from the reset. I might consider buying one of those OBD bluetooth things.
 

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Also, if they reset the car before they test the shudder, I could see there being some issues as a lot of people don't get the shudder until after a few hundred miles from the reset.
My car works much better for a brief time after being reset (Except for the vibration that Hines Park Ford installed. That does not go away with software changes.) I agree that this is a concern. If they reset before testing all the time, they may never encounter certain problems.

My main complaint (gutlessness and poor drivability that makes me hate the car) doesn't occur until the ECM/TCM notice the clutch slipping and start remapping the throttle and shift points to avoid overheating the slipping clutch.

I don't have much in the way of shudder, tbh... but I do have a lot of "OMG YOU STUPID CAR WHY CAN'T YOU KEEP UP WITH THAT '87 CAVALIER IN FRONT OF US!!!"

It's like the engine output settings available to my right foot go: 1%, 2%, 3%, 80%, 90%, 100%.

There's very little available in the way of moderate acceleration. It's all or nothing. You're either gaining on the car in front of you, or falling behind. Matching their speed between 10 and 50 MPH is extremely difficult.

This is not the sort of thing that is easily noticed on a short test drive... but makes for a miserable driving experience as time goes on.
 

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CAFE standards are a b&%ch and then you die.
I imagine that it is becoming harder and harder for engineers to meet
fuel efficiency requirements whilst maintaining some semblance
of an enjoyable driving experience and going to a transmission
setup that ditches the torque converter (DCT) appears to have it's drawbacks..
 

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My car works much better for a brief time after being reset (Except for the vibration that Hines Park Ford installed. That does not go away with software changes.) I agree that this is a concern. If they reset before testing all the time, they may never encounter certain problems.

My main complaint (gutlessness and poor drivability that makes me hate the car) doesn't occur until the ECM/TCM notice the clutch slipping and start remapping the throttle and shift points to avoid overheating the slipping clutch.

I don't have much in the way of shudder, tbh... but I do have a lot of "OMG YOU STUPID CAR WHY CAN'T YOU KEEP UP WITH THAT '87 CAVALIER IN FRONT OF US!!!"

It's like the engine output settings available to my right foot go: 1%, 2%, 3%, 80%, 90%, 100%.

There's very little available in the way of moderate acceleration. It's all or nothing. You're either gaining on the car in front of you, or falling behind. Matching their speed between 10 and 50 MPH is extremely difficult.

This is not the sort of thing that is easily noticed on a short test drive... but makes for a miserable driving experience as time goes on.
That explains mine too, the only way it can even come close is by dropping it into sport mode or using seletshift. In stop and go traffic, D mode is painful, lethergic, grinds, shudders and etc, the Powershit transmisssion has a mind of it's own.
 

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It's like the engine output settings available to my right foot go: 1%, 2%, 3%, 80%, 90%, 100%.
My car has a tendency to not downshift which pretty much matches what you're saying. I'll go to merge on the highway and I'll give it like 80% throttle and I won't move faster than a snail's pace. Then I mash the pedal to the floor and it downshifts 2 gears to like 6k RPM. Why is it so hard for it to just downshift one gear at 80% throttle? It may be because I ease onto the accelerator instead of going from 0 to 80% in one motion. [dunno]
 

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It may be because I ease onto the accelerator instead of going from 0 to 80% in one motion. [dunno]
I am sure you have noticed that the shift points totally change based on how hard you push down on the accellerator. It kinda makes sense in that if you drive with a light foot the car figures you are not in a hurry and gives shifts for best fuel economy. If you mash the pedal, it figures you want to get somewhere now and shifts to keep you in the power band - at the expense of fuel economy.
 

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First off, here is a direct link to the TSB: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3581/tsb13-04-05.pdf

I bought a '13 Focus Titanium Hatch 2 weeks ago (didn't know anything about this issue) and my wife had a shudder crisis this week at about 700 miles. Dealer seemed to be expecting us to bring the car in. Handled it graciously with a loaner and executed this TSB. 24 hours later, got our car back. I'm sensing the key is to bring it straight in to the dealer at the first sign of shudder so the trans. doesn't damage the clutch. Seems to be running smoothly now and we might even be getting better mileage - we'll see how it goes and if the problem comes back I'll repost.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The transmission isn’t damaging the clutch, it’s a leaking shaft seal that is causing trans fluid to contaminate the clutch pads. Programming will not fix it, although going through an adaptive learning cycle may make the problem diminish for a while, as others have found.

As for going to the dealer at the fist sign of shudder, your dealer is a rare exception, as most dealers, mine included, give you the bum’s rush unless the shudder is so bad the car is shaking to pieces, or fluid is practically pouring out the bottom of the bell housing.
 

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@Hypnotoad, thanks for the clarification. Are you saying any shudder is a sign the clutch is already contaminated? Can it clean itself? Is it likely the leak will continue/get worse, or is it possible after some additional miles the seal can bed-in and stop leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can’t say if every occurrence of shudder is the result of oil-contaminated clutch pads, but it is a common cause that Ford recognizes, as indicated in TSBs 11-12-13 and 13-4-5, which both call for replacement of the seals and clutch pack as a fix for shudder problems.

I doubt the clutch can clean itself, particularly if the leak continues, it is more likely the clutch will develop a permanent runout like a warped brake rotor. It is also unlikely a seal will get better with time.
 

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... As for going to the dealer at the fist sign of shudder, your dealer is a rare exception, as most dealers, mine included, give you the bum’s rush unless the shudder is so bad the car is shaking to pieces, or fluid is practically pouring out the bottom of the bell housing.
Spot on! It's tough enough just trying to replicate the issue while it's there.
 

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...Seems to be running smoothly now and we might even be getting better mileage - we'll see how it goes and if the problem comes back I'll repost.
Great news, 2013FocusTitanium! If you have any concerns in the future, don't hesitate to send a PM my way; I'm happy to do what I can to help.

Crystal
 

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I get no info from Ford on TSBs or anything, I have received zero information from Ford in the mail since purchasing my car. Just the monthly bill.

Seems like I have to initiate things myself to get things corrected, not really enjoying this purchase one bit.
 

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How likely am I to get them to do this if I have some shuddering? My dad was commenting on it even yesterday.
 

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How likely am I to get them to do this if I have some shuddering? My dad was commenting on it even yesterday.
Hi 1slofofo,

The best way to get an answer to that question is to take your Focus in for an inspection. I can also investigate some options to assist; send me your information in a PM and I'll start searching. I'll need your VIN, dealer, mileage, daytime phone number, and full name.

Crystal
 

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My daughter just got her 2012 with 51k miles back today. The dealer performed this TSB and the car seems to be shifting normally. We'll see how long it last. If it comes back I'll post a note.
 
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