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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Symptoms started when I went to shift into 3rd one day, wouldn't go in at all. Limped the car home having trouble getting into all gears unless at a complete stop and even had a little trouble then.

Sitting still it shifts fine if not a bit notchy occasionally locking out of 3rd or 5th, not much difference while running or clutch in or out.
I went through the cables and linkage, all is good with them. I can replicate 3rd and 5th lockout with the cables disconnected sometimes.

I bled the clutch, no bubbles. I also flushed the trans and noticed no shavings.

Clutch does not slip although engages fairly high. Tested clutch with parking brake on, car stalls in 1st and 4th with minimal slippage.

I am suspecting clutch does not fully disengage, I can get in gear if I rev match and pumping clutch makes no difference. Should I go ahead and replace the master cylinder even though it's not leaking?

I am almost at whits end with this car, hoping someone can provide some insight.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Vince your Moderator
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What is the fluid level in the transmission?

Moved.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Have you adjusted the shifter cables?

Try that.

Perhaps the slave is on it's way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Adjusted cables, no trouble getting gears if I rev match and double clutch. I think I'm going to replace the master first before I pull the trans...

I really do not want to pull the trans. [bigcry]
 

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Taciturn. Your turn.
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I had the same problem last month except I had an obvious brake fluid leak coming from the bell housing. I could hold the clutch pedal in first gear, then wait 10 secs and the car would creep. I could shift as long as I didn't hold the clutch pedal for a long time.

Usually the master leaks inside the car when it goes bad. Also check the flex section on the clutch line to the trans it gets soft and balloons, but I think it would blow before it makes the car hard to shift.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did notice that the hose from the master to the trans has cracked rubber like an old brake line... would it be worth replacing? There are no leaks anywhere and the fluid is staying at a consistent level.
 

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I'm not seeing mention of it being hard to engage first at a stop.

Is this happening?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It goes in to gear fine at a stop or slow roll. Gear lockout is happening when over 25 mph and seems worse when warm.
 

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If it's not difficult to get into first at a stop you've ruled out any clutch or first gear synchro issues.

Cable adjustment & slop in the shifting mechanism is all that's left.

You'll need to investigate that more closely.

There's a shifter bushing I've seen mentioned here at the trans end, don't remember symptoms but I've seen pictures of the square bush with comments about it being turned backwards to take up slop is not too worn. Member was making them for a while, not currently AFAIK. (search around SVT & primarily SVT performance)

I'm thinking you should look closest at the cable that the left/right motion of the shifter moves. Not getting that quite in position might make shifts more difficult.

The only other possibilities would be internal to the trans., and with no parts avail. you are looking for any other possibility (external is more likely, fortunately).

Luck

P.S. - rev matching is GOOD, when too far off even a perfect trans. will lock you out of a gear (synchronized) or just grind (non-synchronized).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I replaced the square bushing and went through the cables and bushings multiple times as well as adjusting the cables.

Could the cable have stretched? Everything seems fine visually and mechanically.
 

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My remaining thought for external shift mech. issues (with all that done) was the adjustment of that "left/right" at the shifter cable.

Center position is just spring loaded, so you could move the lever slightly to one side or the other before pushing or pulling it into gear. If that made a difference in how it shifted, you'd know which way to adjust it. (3 & 4)

Having trouble when it's over 25mph or warm isn't a good sign to me. This doesn't relate to shift mechanism slop or adjustments. It seems more like the gears aren't spinning at speeds that will allow the synchros to do their job of matching speeds for completing a shift.

Have you had this long before the problem showed up? Recent gear oil change? Any change in how fast/matched your shifts normally are done?

Kinda checking everything I can think of here, you did mention rev matching worked - how fast are you trying to shift keeps coming to mind.

Trying to think of things that are fixable.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Car has 90k on it, I bought it 6 months ago so I have no idea of the history. The fluid looked good when I changed it recently.
I am not trying to speed shift, problem happen at any shift speed.

I did notice that sometimes I will feel the car shudder if I force it into gear, it's like the clutch is dragging.
 

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AND we need to know what fluid was used.

Hope someone else chimes in soon, I'm moving this to SVT performance for more looks (even though "repairs" belong in General Tech).
 

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Suppose the oil experts can debate this one.

IDK if "Redline" synthetic for the manual transmissions that's supposed to be OK for these has a pinkish tinge.

I think there's a version of Mercon V that's full synthetic (mentioned here a bit ago). Not the right stuff for the Getrag, even though some transmissions use it.

Ford manual trans fluid is a known good one, 50W Mobil 1 has been proven, there is a particular Redline that some like as well as an RP product I think - the last two I don't know the results from using long term, may be OK - don't know.

Did you get a chance to test the "offset" shifting in 3 & 4 I thought of as a way to check if the left/right cable was a little off?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Suppose the oil experts can debate this one.

IDK if "Redline" synthetic for the manual transmissions that's supposed to be OK for these has a pinkish tinge.

I think there's a version of Mercon V that's full synthetic (mentioned here a bit ago). Not the right stuff for the Getrag, even though some transmissions use it.

Ford manual trans fluid is a known good one, 50W Mobil 1 has been proven, there is a particular Redline that some like as well as an RP product I think - the last two I don't know the results from using long term, may be OK - don't know.

Did you get a chance to test the "offset" shifting in 3 & 4 I thought of as a way to check if the left/right cable was a little off?
Yeah, I have read the debates on fluid. I used a standard Mercon V because it was cheap and I was uncertain if the trans was in good condition anyway. I didn't want to use something good that I was going to have to drain back out, I mainly wanted to flush and look for shavings.

What I drained definitely looked and smelled like used ATF, was in good condition too.

I've checked alignment of the cables multiple times and feel that it is adjusted to spec. What is the offset test you are referring to?

Thanks for your help! [cool]
 

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I'm not sure on the whole oil subject I know Tom uses Mobile 1 Engine Oil in his tranny. Never had a issue. So you've check all of the below?

Shifter Linkage orange caps.
Linkage under the boot black and white cap.
The bracket support for the linkage itself.

You're not leaking anywhere? Bellhousing either. Guess it doesn't hurt to make sure the you're bleeder is closed all the way since you said it doesn't feel fully disengaged. I would just double check the reservoir, fill it pump the clutch, open it fill and repeat. These are just things I can think of, or had go wrong myself.
 
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