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Discussion Starter #1
Maybe I'm just frustrated. I swapped the belt just under a year ago. Got some water on it and it started to squeal. Sprayed on some belt dressing. I will never learn. Think they should change the name to Squeal MORE. I had no trouble putting on the last belt. I bought the exact same belt, same part number. Even compared them side by side. I sketched out a diagram of the belt before I removed it. Turning the belt tensioner is a pain. I'm sure who ever designed this is retarded. Does anyone have some advice, trick, magic tool. I'm sure I have the belt routed correctly but could use a routing diagram. All I could find was one for the ZTEC. Mine is a 04 LX 2.0 w/ AC.
 

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right lenght belt?

You have a 2.0L duratec right?

Did you get a 2.0L belt the last time?

The 2.0 & 2.3 use different lenght belts.

Not sure if a 2.3 would work at all, but it would be a bit longer than a 2.0 and might not have enough tension.

I know a 2.0 belt is just a bit too short, (by about an inch) and will not go on a 2.3, so if you have it the other way around, the belt is probably too long.

the automatic tensioner will not be strong enough to make up the difference, so it will be prone to squealing.

Anyone else out there know if this makes sense, or has seen it first hand?

I'm just thinking out loud/speculating.......
 

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I don't have a routing diagram but if you have your sketch, you should be OK.

It's always easier to put the belt onto one of the larger pulleys last, so either the PS pulley or crank pulley should be your last one to try.

Althought it's one of the larger diameter pullies, the A/C is sort of bulky with the clutch etc so that's not a good option for the last pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is the PS pulley the one on the top...just above the tensioner. It is very difficult to get the ratchet on to the tensioner. Guess your suppose to put the breaker on with out a socket. I pull on the breaker but there is not enough room to rotate it all the way. The breaker hits the radiator support.
 

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A better diagram

That diagram above is correct... but the spacing of each wheel is way off. I just replaced my alternator yesterday and I had some trouble figuring out the routing. This diagram is much more accurate. Also, it does help to have someone pull the belt over a pulley while you wrench on the tensioner, thats how I did it.

 

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SEEmore, isn't that the layout for the Duratec engine, or is the Zetech layout also very similar?
Ryan1428, I usually use a ratcheting wrench, either 13 mm or 15 mm, depending on your year model, with a 1 or 2 foot length of steel pipe slid over it as a cheater bar. I put the belt over all the pulleys except the nice smooth coolant pump pulley (#5 in the diagram SEEmore posted) before I turn the tensioner, then once I've got the tensioner held, I have an assistant put the belt over that pulley. It can be done by one single person but it's much easier to get someone else to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you put the socket directly on the tensioner pulley "wheel"? There is a square hole above the pulley on the base. I remove the socket and just put an extension directly into the hole. Dont think I can get a socket on the pulley wheel.
 

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Is the PS pulley the one on the top...just above the tensioner. It is very difficult to get the ratchet on to the tensioner. Guess your suppose to put the breaker on with out a socket. I pull on the breaker but there is not enough room to rotate it all the way. The breaker hits the radiator support.

Dead giveaway he isn't working on a zetec.


Under this guys section of changing the timing belt you will find info on how to change the accessory belt also. --> http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180058
 
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