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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched for this, and most info is for taking the bolt out. I did a timing belt replacement on my 2003 ZX3 a week ago, and I have continued to be nervous whether or not the crank bolt is at a sufficient torque.

When I reassembled everything, I tighten the bolt w/ just a ratchet until the assembly started spinning, then zipped it for a quick second with an electric impact, to hope for a bit more snuggness. And I do mean a quick second - I was paranoid about damaging any seals/bearings around the crank.

I couldn't hold the bolt/pully still to check it w/ my torque wrench ( I think the haynes manual calls for 85 ft-lbs).

Any ideas - now that everything is assembled? I don't want to kick myself in the a$$ if this thing rattles apart during the cold of winter. Thanks in advance for your advice!
 

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BACON?
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impact is good, just don't hold it for to long. i don't think its easily possible to damage the seals by over tightening. if you are really concerned you could have an assistant hold the ring gear while you torque the bolt.
 

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coffee, have some
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I secured the pulley with a strap wrench and had a friend hold it in place (big friend) while I torqued it. Never had a problem after that.
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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If its a stick have someone put the car in 3rdthe gear and have them hold the brakes then u can loosen or tighten the crank pulley. If its an auto i have no clue
 

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I <3 my SVT
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I dont think an electric impact can damage the bolt or the crank. Whats the max torque it puts out? I would just gun it for a few seconds. If it doesnt spin then you're good. A strap wrench is a good idea also.

Matt
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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the responses everyone! ...as for the power impact I used...I believe it was a Milwakee, good for neighborhood of 250 - 350 ft/lbs. I'll give the "put it in gear and hold the brakes" a shot...hopefully my clutch isn't too worn at 110K for that to work.
 

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FYI the torque spec is only 85 ft. lbs., so don't go crazy on it. The in gear and standing on brakes method works well.
 

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FYI the torque spec is only 85 ft. lbs., so don't go crazy on it. The in gear and standing on brakes method works well.
Can definitely second that, I just finished replacing my timing belt (without timing tools :p hehe) and once everything was put back together, couldn't find a way to tighten the crank bolt to the 85ft-lb spec. I came across this post, went out to the garage and tried it and it worked like a charm! 3rd Gear + Break for the win! [headbang].

Thumbs up for start on first crank [wrenchin]
 

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There's 2 holes in the crank pulley for a pin wrench:




I just made one with 1/4" bolts and iron stock from home depot.
 
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