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I have the powerworks on my car and need to upgrade the clutch. Does centerforce make a flywheel and clutch, or are spec and clutchmasters the only two? Is there an upgraded input shaft for our transmission or not because I have heard the splines round off under hard driving?
 

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last I heard there was just a clutch from centerforce... but the fidanza flywheel is a good one! I like my spec clutch, just think I should went with a stage 2... but with the PW you might want to go with a stage 4 clutchmasters kit... everyone has good things to say about it... even the non FI people with it
 

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There is no "upgraded" input shaft. The only reason there has been wear on the input shafts on the MT285 transaxle is because of the stock Dual Mass flywheel was moving around so bad it did not keep the clutch disc centered on the input shaft and was causing the wear.

If you have a worn input shaft you will need to find another transaxle, as of right now there are NO replacement parts available for the MT285 through Ford. I have not checked with the MINI guys (the Cooper S uses the MT285 but I don't know if the input shaft is the same spline or if it would be interchanable with the SVTF version)
 

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Byron 3465
There is no "upgraded" input shaft. The only reason there has been wear on the input shafts on the MT285 transaxle is because of the stock Dual Mass flywheel was moving around so bad it did not keep the clutch disc centered on the input shaft and was causing the wear.

If you have a worn input shaft you will need to find another transaxle, as of right now there are NO replacement parts available for the MT285 through Ford. I have not checked with the MINI guys (the Cooper S uses the MT285 but I don't know if the input shaft is the same spline or if it would be interchanable with the SVTF version




HOW COULD WE FIND OUT HOW I AM SICK AND TIRED OF CHANGING SLAVE CYLENDERS AND CLUTCH PLATES.

SETH
 

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If you are killing TOBs and anular slave cylinders you need to replace the FLYWHEEL

It is allowing the pressure plate and clutch disc to run NON CONCENTRIC with the input shaft of the gear box (they need to be lined up to within .002" or less and the one I took off my car at 7500 miles had more than .030" of runout in it!!!!) Puting clutch discs, pressure plates and throw out bearings and cylinders on your car is NOT going to fix the problem. I have an aluminum flywheel (single mass no runout) and it has now been on the car for 44,500 miles and I still have the origional TOB and anular slave cylinder the factory installed new on the car.
 

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You guys must be doing something wrong or maybe something got out of alignment during installation, I know my daily driving is usually harder than most others "spirited" driving.... just from the sheer amount of power I'm running.
 

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03OrangeSVT said:
You guys must be doing something wrong or maybe something got out of alignment during installation, I know my daily driving is usually harder than most others "spirited" driving.... just from the sheer amount of power I'm running.
Once you replace the factory Dual Mass Flywheel with one of the aluminum flywheels your TOB problems will be over.

Clutches and pressure plates are another matter. With the weight of our cars, the tall first gear and the lack of huge amounts of low end torque (it's really quite good for a 2000cc NA 4 cylinder engine but doesn't feel that way given the weight and gearing) getting a clutch to live takes a driver that is at least a bit carefull with the clutch pedal. It's not how much HP you have it's how much you slip the clutch every time you pull away from a stop or slip it every time you shift up or down. The stock clutch will take an amazing amount of torque but not much heat. Get it engaged then stand on the gas makes very little heat and very little wear on the disc Running the engine up to 3000 and then spending 3+ seconds slipping it trying to get going on a hill is about as hard on the clutch as anything you can do.
 
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