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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello new to fourm, done some searching cant seem to find anyone else with same exact problem. sooo... fist things first, 05 focus zx4se, o/d light flashes- problems are when in drive no 1st or od, but I can manually pull it down in 1 with shifter then 2 then drive still no o/d. codes are p0765 solenoid d, and 0760 solenoid c, now ive seen post on here where people change solenoid and it solves problem but my thinking is since I can put it in first the solenoid is good. am I wrong, could it still be solenoid? if not where to turn next, ecu, wiring harness? is there test I can do for this with a multi-meter? will be great full for any help with this.

P.S, sorry all the grammar errors im a mechanic not a spelling major.
 

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Moved to the General Tech Chat section where you can find threads on diagnosing A/T problems & get more answers.

Update the model info if you could to help others know what you've got, fx4 isn't a focus version.

Welcome to FF
 

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Lots of opinions and so many different symptoms and possibilities to consider and confuse on this subject.

No 3rd and 4th = can be trans end cover (fixable at home)
Slipping 3rd and/or 4th = can be Solenoid A (fixable at home)
No 2nd and 4th = can be intermediate band (fixable at home)
This, that and another symptom = can be trans fluid is low
This, that and another symptom = can be one or more solenoid is bad
This, that and another symptom = can be some damaged wiring, or bad connection between point A (PCM) and point B (trans)
This, that and another symptom = can be trans is on its' way to Disneyland.

Based on multiple different things; I often say check your P's and Q's first, then replace all 6 solenoids and home-flush the system. If fixed, celebrate. If still broke, oh well, your a dummy for doing that, you wasted time and money. Now get up off the floor and try again. -or give up and take it to a pro.

Set of 6 solenoids, filter, gasket:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4F27E-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd493997e&vxp=mtr

Fluid flush:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169493

Solenoid A - How to:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167830

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l36SjcB0FuQ





 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Marde thank you soo much for those diagrams. All that info that's exactly what ive been looking for, again thank you.!!!!! upon further testing all my solenoids tested good, so its on the car side. Either wiring or computer, so I guess I get to start taking it all apart and tracing wires and seeing witch wire goes to what prong in the computer and seeing if there is any signal between the 2 and if not trying to find it. yay me
 

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Sol. C is needed for OD, sol. D for D 1st gear, not for manual 1st as the trans mechanically applies low a bit different in manual vs. drive. 2 ways it can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so I tested the solenoids using the resistance chart they all tested good also tested the wiring harness their is a connection between the plug and comp so I ordered a computer and we will see if that fixes things can hope for the best right?
 

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No. Not a good idea to order a (PCM) computer. You should have done other troubleshooting or consulted a professional before purchasing a PCM.

I did not re-read this thread, sorry, but wanted to post anyway; in a hurry to fall asleep. maybe cu tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What other troubleshooting is there. I ordered a good used pcm with a key and number matching so it will work with the ca.r I am a full time diesel mechanic my self. Not saying I know everything by any means tho, this front wheel drive is new to me. but I tested the solenoids and the harness and they are good so in my mind just keep going up the line and that would be the pcm but if it could be something else please tell me.
 

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Solenoids can test fine resistance wise all day long and still be physically stuck to not work......I suggest you go back to post #5 and look at that second pic again and closer this time. The chart clearly shows how a bad C or D could make your exact issues.

99% odds not the PCM...............at least not here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's what I was thinking to until they tested good for resistance but you bring up a valid point about they still could be bad. Is there a way I can test if their stuck or just replace them?
 

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If the pan is still off you could detach the harness from the solenoids & apply power/ground to check for a "click".

Closest to a full test short of removal to blow through at the same time to prove mechanical function.
 

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A and B blow check with low pressure air, the others are PWM and harder to check them as the output is highly variable. I suppose aircheck to them would at least show something though.
 

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Well guys thank you for all your help as it turns out it was the computer got the one from eBay and put it on and it works beautifully
Yep, just like I said. Probably just a faulty PCM. Congrats on your fix and thanks for coming back to let us know what happened.

No. Not a good idea to order a (PCM) computer. You should have done other troubleshooting or consulted a professional before purchasing a PCM.
Nice try but your wrong again Marde. Pffft.
 

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Don't second guess yourself, I still stick by what I said..........

'99% odds not the PCM...............at least not here.'

People testing parts themselves even if accomplished mechanics means nothing to me at all and I easily found another much cheaper cause to the issue that I didn't see accounted for first. I've found that just like the PCM sales mentioned below most have no idea of what 'complete' testing of any given part means, even guys who have done that work supposedly for many years. Again, like below, playing the numbers. Human intervention taken into full account, indeed that intervention is what produces most of the questions, specifically the completeness of it all. You'll never get 100% completeness over the web...................I call 75% GOOD and most closer to 30%.

Out of 350,000 cars at least a very few will have a bad PCM but that in no way means you tell everybody to buy one, playing the numbers there. All any person who works on cars can do..............

I SOLD the damn things and I saw and say that most of them were sold for nothing, probably like a true 90% or so. The other ten percent needed one, it happens. Biggest problem with the PCM sales was having to argue with people wanting 100% refunds when the things are now flashed custom on each one, that did NOT refund and like $100 of the cost. People now firmly believe they should be able to take the entire auto store home with them to try out 50 parts then bring it all back in the morning to get refunded for every single part they have installed then pulled back off to throw into the box greasy, broken, or missing parts. They only insist they should have to pay for the one part that fixes it after lowering the quality of all the others tried out to where no one wants to buy those any more. Maybe 50% were absolute -sses about it and in the case of the PCMs, if they knew you were NOT the person who directly sold it to them they then claimed the spiel we gave on every PCM sale that the reflash and shipping cost was non-refundable was never given to them. Or, the gutless lie. You grew to expect that, people being what they are. I certainly had them calling the district managers enough over it trying to get me fired, it leaves a bad taste in your mouth. Not my fault some idiot wasted the months apartment rent on a stupid guess there, but they sure tried to make it so. People are much more desperate than smart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know and I'm not about to tell everyone that a pcm fixes everything eather I did replace the c and d solenoids before I got computer it was still no change so it was eather comp or transmission you see why I went the cheaper route first and I know I pretty much got lucky on it being the pcm but I'll take it haha
 

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A bet worth taking once you've done all the other checks possible, and found no evidence pointing to a deeper trans. issue.

Even on a simpler system, like the push button electric shifting on an ATV, can get to the replacement point when everything else has been checked. Remember checking repeatedly every possibility in the manual on a brand new unit when that was fresh tech.. Eventually you get to the point where the manual says "substitute known good module" and you're out of luck not having another on hand to swipe a unit from for testing. Order, wait, & pray it works since it will be a spare part in inventory forever if it doesn't solve the problem. (expensive mistake if you missed something in your testing)
 
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