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Discussion Starter #1
The housing that sits on top of the transmission cracked and broke when trying to bleed the fluid from it. It looks as though the screw welded itself to the threads and didnt take any force to break it.

I can assume to replace this part I need to pull the trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe this will help clearify what happened.

This is not my trans but a picture of the same type mtx75

the actual housing that surronds what the bleeder valve screws into snapped



after looking at this picture is it part of the slave cylinder?

 

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C2H5OH
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You need a new Throwout Bearing Assembly.
And it doesn't pay to just do the TO, may as well do the whole clutch assy. It's a time consuming job and you don't want to do it twice.
 

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i def agree with ^^^
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Completely agree. I've pulled a few trans before, and it's not the funest thing ever.

Thanks for confirming what i needed to replace
 

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The housing on my transmission is stripped!!!!! @#%$&

Can I use locktite to try and make the pedal pressurize or do I have to replace the enitre housing?
 

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I am in big trouble I have bought an older zx3 love the car love the motor little stuff is killing me!!. The housing where my bleeder valve threads into is stripped. Do I have to take off the transmission?
Can I use locktite to try and make the pedal pressurize or do I have to replace the enitre housing?

Without your first post this one makes no sense, FYI.


No.
Never ever use any type of thread sealant on a bleeder valve.

You might be able to 'fix' the bleeder for the clutch by using an oversized one --> http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...1_-1&keyword=brake+bleeder&pt=N0264&ppt=C0066
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread. I had this happen to me this morning. I will replace it if I don't sell the car but as for right now, I won't have the money to do this job for a month and it's our only vehicle for my family I don't have down time or resources at the moment. Is there any way to ghetto rig this to get me by?

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Find a screw that will fit in to seal the hole, and pray that it gravity bled enough for the clutch release to work.
 

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Find a screw that will fit in to seal the hole, and pray that it gravity bled enough for the clutch release to work.
Idk if I'll find a screw bigger than the bleeder valve? Or is there something in the hole I can get to fit? Should I have the clutch pressed while doing this?

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Look at it closer, like every bleeder screw it seals off a smaller passage beyond the tip.
 

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I'm gonna check that out. Also considering repairing it with quick steel. Either just wedge it in there, or try and hold the bleeder and the cracked piece in place and molding it around it.

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This is a picture of the slave cylinder. You can see where it's broken, where there should be a bleeder valve. It would gravity bleed, I took the hydraulic line in the picture off, to see if it would run free and it wouldn't. I only got a few drips here and there. So could that mean that the master cylinder is also defective?


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Great.

You're in a desperate situation so you try to make it worse.

I may be making too many assumptions since you never mentioned WHY you were trying to bleed it to begin with. BUT if it was functional at all capping off the bleeder hole any way possible & leaving the system untouched to keep the best 'bleed' and fluid in there was the way you needed to go.


Now about the only way to get it working would be to do a reverse bleed, TRY to push fluid all the way back up through the system as bled at the factory. Pump oil can full of brake fluid and a matching hose to stick in that hole, trying to hold it to a seal at the bottom. Then quickly removes and cap off. Right size screw that'll fit in the hole at the bottom, thread cutting sheet metal type maybe. Maybe start threads with a tap for a small bolt so it wedges in there to seal - you don't have good options.

It's McGuyver time for finding a way to seal it, that was the priority to avoid the proper repair by replacing it.
 

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It's not me, luck just keeps going from bad to worse lol.

I originally tried bleeding it as the first and easiest method to diagnosing the issue, which was, cold mornings sometimes I'd start my car and the clutch would grab and release both with the pedal all the way to the floor, which was OK, I left it because after I drive for a little bit, it went back to normal.

However one chilly Florida morning (believe it or not), there was no pressure at all, stick wouldn't go into gear period. I ran the car for a while, tried bleeding it with no initial luck. But after a while of pumping, it started building pressure, very very low to the floor. Next morning same issue. But when I bled it this time the valve wouldn't tighten, I am very careful with these for the reason that they're a bitch to change the cylinder. Turns out it may have been cracked for a very long time. When I first got the car back after the fresh clutch kit install, he mentioned how the pressure seemed weird, recommended bleeding it so I did, and the valve wouldn't snug. I didn't mess with it anymore, I figured it may have been my imagination, but that was like 6 months ago.

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Work on figuring out a way to cap it off, hope the line bleeds itself, but I'd cap it off for now with a hose/bolt just so it doesn't drain out completely.

G/L with it, maybe start by hooking it up & capping it off to see what you get & go from there.
 

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Hope the master is OK, now that I see your next post problems with that may also have been the issue to begin with.
 

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Luk slave cylinder is on the way. Also bought a clutchmasters stage one clutch and lightweight flywheel from Karl at Massive Speed System.

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Sure that kit doesn't include a slave?

Most of the clutch kits do, but IDK about that one in particular.

Either way, should be set for a LONG time once that is in!

Remember that the packing tape for the master does NOT get removed during assembly, it breaks when the master is first used AFTER assy. and initial bleeding. Meant to keep the piston in place through the assembly process so it doesn't extend too far before being limited by the clutch.

AND for another note, most of the replacement master cylinders now require sealant when installed to the transmission, instead of the prev. included o-ring.
 
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