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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So lately ive been trying to do all of my fluid replacement on my zx3. I replaced thr oil and it had a small leak so i torqued it down to what mu chilton spec was and it no longer leaks.
Now ive moved onto my transmission and it has been quite the headache. The first time i changed it, Chilton said put rtv betweeb the gasket and pan, not gasket and trans, and it leaked. The 2nd time i put the rtv on both sides but forgot the magnet[bigcry]
Thus 3rd time i scraped everything down very good, didnt use brake cleaner, took my time and now insted of it leaking in the back middle bolt its leaking onlu from the front bolt to the right of the middle bolt. Its only a few drips every night but it really has been bothrring me. This is my daily driver so i need help
Im thinking i should drop the pan, empty new filter, scrap mting surfacrs and usr brakr cleanrr to ensure they arr perfectly smooth, and axctually use my torque bar this time. Proballu wont use rtv this time becausr the rubber gasket should do the trixk right ? Whats fhe best way to straighteb out the holes?
 

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I used a rubber gasket, did Not use rtv, torqued bolts to 80 in-lbs. Did not have a leak. Good luck on your next attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update : i called the ford dealership, and they told me that i do not use any kind of gasket but insted use this sealant called lok-tight? What do you think
Btw i drive a 2001 ford focus zx3 2.0l dohc
 

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Some cars, some years, were rtv sealant only. Changing it, and using a gasket instead, is often done.

Loctite might make rtv gasket stuff, but my use of loctite products has been with thread sealant stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So i should tke everything off, scrape the sutfacrs clean eith brake cleaner, mske the pan true, and torque down to 61 lbs per foot. Should i use any rtv
 

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Your call, sounds good. No rtv on mine, just a rubber gasket.

Brake cleaner is kinda harsh; just need it clean.

Not foot lbs; try 70 to 80 inch lbs.

Make the pan true? what? is it bent? hope not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im going yo be taking the gasket out and putting some kind of gaskrt maker, ford told me that my vechile accually doesnt use any kind of gasket. In that casr should i use gray permatex gasket maker ?
 

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You are going to lose your -ss.

Ford says that because they are idiots or want you to screw up worse and then take it to them. Using sealer only is a bottom dollar method that only works when the trans is upside down and the flats there have never been oily. They do it to save $$$$ in gaskets but a gasket by itself is FAR better than the sealer is as you will NEVER get the flats bone dry there as the sealer requires and why you have leaks there. The trans has to sit like 10 hours to drain ALL oil coming down the sides to mess you up. One drop only getting on your gasket sealer and give up, it WILL leak.

Use gasket by itself and no sealer and the pan must be dead flat, if you have overtorqued to pull the bolt holes in a curve at the hole the pan is junk until you peen the holes back the other way. The bolt holes in pan MUST be HIGH as compared to the rest of the flat so that they pull the rest of the flat to contact first before they begin to flatten out. Of course, if you cannot restrain yourself you will overtighten again and still leaks.

Luck, if you think sealer by itself is better than a physical gasket you got a long way to go yet. Who gives a crap about what the OEM does, all you care about is the thing not leaking. Nothing else matters. And 61 ft.lbs.?????, just looking to need a new transmission aren't you?

INCH POUNDS not foot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So i still have a few questions,

1. If in case i must get a new trans pan, there is a focus in the jy ive been pulling parts from which is a 2003 focus 2.0 sohc LX, I have a zx3 2.0 dohc. Will these tranny pans interchange ?

2. When i go to strighten my old pan out what shouls i put. On the bottom egde that im hitting ? A socket? A thin piece of wood ?

3. When i buy a new rubber gasket, are these considered cork style or the "higher quality" gaskets. I read online if they are packaged folded than it could cause issues with leaking.

4, what is the sequence i should be tightening the bolts in?

5, if i tighten to 5 feet per pound, that is about the same as 61 inchs per pound correct ?

6. With the new rubber gasket, should i rtv the mating flanges, gasket to pan and gasket to trans case? Or only the joint around the entire thing ?

Thanks guys for your help
 

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1. Probably, check part numbers for pan or gasket to ensure.

2. Ball of a ball peen hammer, with the pan edge flat on a wood surface, then tap on the hammer with a soft blow hammer just enough to flatten the dimple. Leave alone if the hole isn't dimpled out.

3. Rubber ain't Cork. Folded rubber isn't as good, needs flattening before use if that's all you find.

4. X-pattern starting from center of sides is good, use MANY steps to draw tight.

5. DON'T use a ft/lb torque wrench. You WILL over-tighten & maybe even break bolts. Tighten only until gasket starts to evenly squish out & bolts are snug, 1/4 drive wrench is good for using fingers. Torque spec. is only for metal on metal of original sealant assembly, to avoid breakage of bolts (max. spec).

6. Try clean & dry first. With goop it all tries to squeeze out & tends to create leaks.
 

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Yep, using rtv only allows the gasket to squish out of shape to leak faster. Dead bone dry and clean. The bone dry will be an issue as the oil will continue to drip down side of case to migrate around the corner and mess up your clean dry flats there.
 

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Got that right Bud,

Pan in hand to slap on as you do your last wipe down with solvent & dry it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So today, i weny to az and bought a aftermarket gasket which i could tell right away that it was much higher quality. It wasnt as flexible, it came shipped flat, it was thinner and the holes are smaller,

I dont gave much of the right stuff so i am hoping that i can get the rest of the tube to go aroubd the joint because i am not going to be putting any rtv or sealer inbetween the pan/gasket and gasket/trans.

I couldnt find a inch per pound torque wrench that went lower than 120 in. Or was cheaper thab 80$......

The first thing i am going to do tomorrow is drop the pan and let it drain for a good six hours. That way i have as little trouble with fluid runnibg onto my mating surfaces.
I still havr not foubd a diagram to which how the torque sequence is...
Wish me luck, ill post my results !
 

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Autozone has the torque wrench you need in the tool loan program. You can loan it for Free; with deposit.

The torque sequence is not critical. Someone (maybe Sailor) said use a X or Star pattern, so do that. I did 3 or more passes; 1-with a ratchet to snug em up, 2-torqued to 50 in lbs, 3-torqued to 80 in lbs.

After I did mine, I read something somewhere that said the proper torque is lower than 80, oh well.
 

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Cheap inch/lb torque wrench for low numbers is a "beam style" with a pointer to the scale.

That type is cheapest for ALL torque wrenches, including the normal range one you'd use for most projects. Advantage is that they DON'T need to be checked/adjusted professionally for accuracy, and that you can watch the torque as you tighten a fastener.

You can learn a lot watching the torque as you tighten something. From seeing torque suddenly start rising fast once the slack is removed to watching it level off as something is being over-torqued & the bolt stretches toward breakage (or threads pull out).

Lets you SEE the snug, tight, fully tightened & too much stages to educate your "feel".
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well today i got it all buttoned up, no RTV on the gasket, but i did some around the entire joint to be safe, and so far no leaks. I straightened out the pan to where if i ran my finger over it it was really smooth, but if you looked down it it looked kinda messed up. but for the most part it seemed to be straight. tomorrow during the day i am going to check the fluid lvl, and do a very close check for leaks!

thank you guys the help was much appreicated
 
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