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Discussion Starter #1
So I am working on fixing a SVT Focus that has been off the road since 2013. Anyways I got the car running today and there are still a few things to fix but one of those is the Traction Control light. Anyways if you turn the key on all the lights come up on the dash. ABS and TCS light come on and go out at the same time. Then the TCS light comes back on. Any ideas. Car is on jackstands at the moment. I did drive up to 15mph but it did not go out. Might have to throw the car back on the ground once I fix some other things under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah checked the fuses for both abs and tcs. Everything seems fine. Might have to get my buddies pc with ford diagnostic software if it does not go away after driving it.
 

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Well update since I drove the car. Drove it and I have three lights. TCS/ABS/Brake light are all on. So I guess I need to find a code scanner that can pull abs codes.
 

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Well update since I drove the car. Drove it and I have three lights. TCS/ABS/Brake light are all on. So I guess I need to find a code scanner that can pull abs codes.
Brake light on = possible low on brake fluid....abs light= tone ring, wiring or a sensor...tcs hooked to the abs.
 

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So mote be it
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Brake light on = possible low on brake fluid....abs light= tone ring, wiring or a sensor...tcs hooked to the abs.
The hand brake has a switched tied to the brake light as well iirc.

Did you change any of the braking components? Need to make sure any replacement parts were for an ABS car or you swapped over those tone rings. What happens when you panic stop in a low traction situation? Find an empty road or parking lot. If the brakes just lock up, that will tell you ABS is not working at all
 

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If the ABS light is on it doesn't work anyway, the light causes it to disable.

If anybody has a logic pulse reader or oldschool analog needle voltmeter I'd be checking all 4 wheels for sensor output, the most common thing to go wrong there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright so so more info. Went and got a code reader that can read abs codes. Came up with three codes.

B1318- Low battery voltage. Car was not running at the time. I started the car and the code stayed.

U-1009 Missing engine torque. Sounds like this is speedo sensor issue

U-1027 Missing Engine RPM. So not seeing engine torque aka rpm.

So sounds like I have some digging to do. ABS/Brake light went off. I took it for a 18 mile drive and the light came back on. However I went to borrow the scanner and the system self checked and the abs light went back off. So might have to drive it some more to see if there is another code.

Been looking for the and there is not to much info on these codes. Could be a wiring problem somewhere. Speedo and rpm are showing right on the gauge minus the speedo is 2mph fast just like my black svt so I am calling that normal. Anybody have the service manual where I can start.
 

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Speedo and rpm are showing right on the gauge minus the speedo is 2mph fast just like my black svt so I am calling that normal. Anybody have the service manual where I can start.
see what amc said, id check there. The ABS/Traction control is separate from the speedo/rpm, its at the wheels (my 07 doesnt have abs/traction and my speedo/rpm is just fine [;)])
If the ABS light is on it doesn't work anyway, the light causes it to disable.

If anybody has a logic pulse reader or oldschool analog needle voltmeter I'd be checking all 4 wheels for sensor output, the most common thing to go wrong there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I will go into a little more detail. For ease splitting things into two groups. Black Car is the parts car. Silver car is the one I fixed.

When I bought the car 5-6 months ago I did put power to the system and tried to get the other engine running. Turning everything on I did notice the traction control light would go off and come back on. I said I wold look into it more once the car was running and driving. Was off jumper cables so figured a low voltage issue can do random things to these cars. The old engine had got hot enough to melt the camshaft sensor,knock sensor and intake manifold. It also turned over and had zero compression. So at that point it became a junk motor.

Fast forward some. I had parted out another wrecked 2002 svt focus. It had a good engine. I did a service on it which was a timing belt job, crank seals, camshaft seals as they had signs of leaking. So the black cars engine was mated up to the silver cars transmission. I used the wiring harness,injectors, cam and crank sensors, coil, wires, and a few misc sensors from the black car. The black cars transmission had a lsd and is sitting to go into my car one day. Silver car is being sold.

As for the brakes. Front were inspected when I pulled the axles out. One rear caliper came off to change a wheel stud in the back. Its due for a pad change in the rear. Fronts are also below 1/4 pad.

Now back to running and driving the car. At the moment if I go out right now and turn the key to run. TCS/ABS/Brake lights come on. TCS/ABS Cycle off. TCS light comes on. Brake light will go off if I put the E-brake handle down. Now if I go for a drive like I did yesterday this is what happened. TCS light is on. Driving up to speeds to about 80mph no other lights. Put 10 miles on the car with only lit up light being TCS. ABS was off and the brake light was also off. Could pull the e-brake up and down and the light would come and go as it should.

So I tried something since the last time the abs light/brake light came on was after a key cycle. So when coasting I shut the key to accessory and then back to run. System cycled but abs/brake light came on. I put the car in neutral and started the engine back up and continued on. Drove home and tried to pull the abs codes using my bluetooth reader and FORscan. System did its checks but could not pick up the abs system to pull codes. Before my drive I pulled abs codes and had found the same U1027/U1009. There was a B1318 code for low voltage. This was probably due to the engine being off at the time.

Decided it was time to go borrow my buddies better scan tool that did ford abs. Car had ran about 4pm. I went and got the scanner at 8pm. Got back to the car around 9pm and plugged the scanner in. Turn the car on. Systems cycle. TCS/ABS lights come on and off but only the TCS light comes on. ABS and Brake light would go out.

I then pull codes to get b1318/u1027/u1009. I bet if I go drive the car the abs light would stay out unless I do a funky key cycle.

So had a buddy with alldata look up this stuff. It mentioned these codes then said go to this section to only find nothing on those codes. So looks like I am on my own.

I have debated a wheel speed sensor but I figure if one of those was bad the abs would throw a code for it after the 12mph check. However after driving over 10 miles no light came on. Have had a bad wheel sensor on buddies 06 focus and it would trip when his had the wrong wheel bearing without a tone ring in one of the hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So more updates. Had family come into town and he had his MAC scanner that does a lot. Anyways I plugged it in. Got the same codes. So went on another drive. This time I could live data the wheel speed sensors. Good news there all of them are working and within 1mph of each other at all times. So its not a wheel speed sensor or a failing tone ring.

I also did a couple panic stops and abs did its thing with no issues. 3 panic stops from 30 and abs worked on all three stops.

So I tired a key cycle while rolling and of course the abs light came on. However at this point it will no longer connect to the scan tool. Fuses are good. I am almost leaning towards the ABS brain box being bad but just on the TCS side.

His scanner also picked up a pending code. P1246 which is an alternator code. So going to look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So long wait update. I swapped a spare abs brain box from another 2002 focus. Was a non tcs unit. Anyways tcs is full time deleted. Good news no tcs light (expected) and abs light stays off with no codes. So think I was right that the abs computer was bad.
 
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