i just bought a new valve cover from ford because my old one got warped and was leaking. i was just wondering if anybody knows how many ft/lbs to torque the bolts to, or if i even have to torque them down. thanx for the help in advance.
I believe it is 15# I could be wrong. I have had my valve cover off more times than I can remember. About 20+. I also have the original gasket in place. The secret is to tighten it from the middle and work you way out to the sides then the ends. I call it a half a grunt torque.
For something like a valve cover, torque specs aren't that important. The bolts are just holding the cover to the top of the head, its not like you're going to have something go out of balance or break apart if all the bolts aren't precisely torqued in the correct order. I'd say just tighten them down and leave it at that.
I'm still failing to grasp the need to use approximate torque specs on a valve cover, this isn't a balanced or moving part in the engine that is going to work itself loose if not torqued properly or in two stages. Its a plastic cover...not a flywheel, cam bucket or connecting rod. The only thing I can see needing to do with it is driving the bolts in in sequence so the gasket seats correctly.
You're not understanding what I'm saying...sure there are torque specs, but Ford has torque specs for every fastener on the car. Do you guys use a torque screwdriver when you remove and replace screws, for example? And the two-stage torquing is completely useless, the only thing that is needed for is cam buckets and other highly sensitive, balanced load bearing parts. My gasket was leaking, so I took the cover off and cleaned it and then ran a thin bead of RTV around both sides of the gasket, then reinstalled the valve cover and *gasp* I didn't use any torque specs, and now three months later there are miraculously no leaks.
If you want to dual-stage torque it like its an internal engine part, by all means go right ahead, but you're just wasting your time [screwy]