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Discussion Starter #1
So I’ve been lead astray by my ford dealership when I purchased the car used back in October last year. During the buying process I was lead to believe that the dual clutch warranty lasted for 10 years. But come to find out it’s only 7yrs and my warranty ends September this year.

I love this car and I’ve been silently reading about toms tune on the site for quite a while now but I’m in a pickle as from what I’ve been told I’ll have to replace clutches almost every 20k miles for 2k a pop on stock tune can’t do that..


So my last ditch effort is to do a dual clutch replacement this month and purchase toms tune same day. Only problem is I’ve never done that before, can someone please set my mind at ease?
 

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Torretto!
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^^^ Search the thread on How to drive a dual clutch transmission, there's also many you tube videos on the subject.. not saying you don't know but there's some things that cause overheating and excess wear on the clutches and other issues.

Tom is great, he's pretty open to calls or emails..he's busy so get to the point.. he's tuned my car and it's great so far...just be aware you need to datalog, it's pretty easy... better with a laptop and livelink software, using the scct4 device to datalog is slower and creates large files too big to email (Tom doesn't accept compressed or encrypted files). You will need to datalog which is starting the datalogging software on the laptop hooked to OBD2 port, start the car, idle for 5 minutes.. go for a short drive, do a wide open throttle pull in 3rd gear to redline or as far as it will go before it shifts. Email the file to Tom, he sends you updated tune..load that to car, and there you go.

His tune seems to fix a lot of DCT problems, however it cannot fix a DCT with physical problems ie: worn or damaged clutches and actuators, etc etc.. however if your DCT has just had repairs...getting the tune now and adjusting your driving style for a DCT may be the end of your issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
My car isn’t a race car so I’m not going to red line it in third or any of that, it’s not the select shift model anyways. Plus idk where you live but if I tried that “hard pull” you’re talking about I would definitely catch a ticket they don’t play.

Oh and what I’m supposed to drop extra $$ on a separate program to datalog? I thought the $450.00 was all That was required and he would send what I needed?
 

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If you wont be doing WOT runs ever then you dont have to do that for the datalog , you can do the 5 min idle and 5 min cruise

All of the software is free , I will email you links for the Updater which loads the Tune , Live link for datalogging and Teamviewer so I can remote into your laptop if you have any issues

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay awesome, I’m getting the clutches replaced on 8/22 I’m hoping to get you paid day of and get the ball rolling on this, I’m very excited.
 

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Torretto!
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^^^eventually when your DCT is hopefully working better you may want to increase performance, get a intake, header, exhaust, and performance tune..after all you paid for the tuning might as well get full benefit..the DCT only revs to 6500max, it can easily go to 7000+ safely so you are safe..the "pull" is only for like 5 seconds...sure you can find a road where you can do that without getting in trouble, lol...I do it, in an industrial area after hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Question, does the day adaptively learn as you drive or is it just that first ford tech that teaches it after a re-flash? I only ask because when I was having issues it was because I made a silly decision to try and use the highway over here where I live. At 7am and 5pm it’s like pulling teeth to get anywhere.

I went a back road way home yesterday as sort of a scientific test and I had better results but I still notice some small issues from time to time. But it’s usually only when I feel like I make mistakes driving it correctly.

I feel as if I’m driving a manual sometimes with no manual gear changes. Only my foot to gas pedal pressure percentage.
 

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Question, does the day adaptively learn as you drive or is it just that first ford tech that teaches it after a re-flash? I only ask because when I was having issues it was because I made a silly decision to try and use the highway over here where I live. At 7am and 5pm it’s like pulling teeth to get anywhere.

I went a back road way home yesterday as sort of a scientific test and I had better results but I still notice some small issues from time to time. But it’s usually only when I feel like I make mistakes driving it correctly.

I feel as if I’m driving a manual sometimes with no manual gear changes. Only my foot to gas pedal pressure percentage.
It's always learning and adjusting, I have 2 Foci with DCT's and my '14 at 73k miles is perfect because I drive 'assertively' (no creeping in traffic, either on the gas or not, accelerating away from stoplights with purpose, ect). My wife's '13 (114k miles), however can get a pretty noticeable shudder because she drives like a grandma and treats it like every other automatic tranny shes ever driven. If hers gets annoying to her I'll take it for a couple of days and drive it aggressively and the shudder will go away for a while. You can also do the "clutch scrub" technique as seen on a few YouTube videos. I've found it to be an effective quick fix if I dont feel like driving hers.

And dont listen to anyone telling you that you'll need new clutches every 20k or whatever. I know several early MK3's with high mileage that are on their first or second set of clutches. My 14 got new clutches right before I bought it at 35k miles (I had the OASIS report printed out before it made an offer on it), I've driven it 38k trouble free miles and it shows no signs of needing clutches any time soon. The wife's 13 got new clutches and updated seals at 50k miles (the originals got contaminated by oil due to a faulty seal) and she's put 63k miles on it since. I will keep doing "clutch scrubs" on it once or twice a year to make it behave when it acts up. My 13 is well out of warranty, I dont plan on replacing it until it hits 200k, and I'm not worried about having to replace clutches in that time. I will drive my 14 until the wheels fall off and I'm not worried about the clutches in it either.

Bottom line, Get the tune for piece of mind if you can afford it but it isn't absolutely necessary.
 

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^^^Im still on my original clutches.. 2013 with 80K
 

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^^^eventually when your DCT is hopefully working better you may want to increase performance, get a intake, header, exhaust, and performance tune..after all you paid for the tuning might as well get full benefit..the DCT only revs to 6500max, it can easily go to 7000+ safely so you are safe..the "pull" is only for like 5 seconds...sure you can find a road where you can do that without getting in trouble, lol...I do it, in an industrial area after hours.
I was thinking something similar.

As I’ve gotten older I’ve been less inclined to get on my vehicles. That said, there are many times when one can “floor it”and not get in trouble nor be irresponsible. In fact, I’d even say knowing what your car will do when you’re in a situation when you need to WOT can help make you safe. Sure it’s best to never get into such situations, but things happen and having options makes us safer. I say that as I’ve learned over the years that given the choice between slamming on the brakes or the gas, that in most cases the gas is often the better choice if you know how to drive through them.

Anyway, we’re all different and we should do what we feel is best for our cars.
 
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