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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my second oil change. First one was done at 400 miles by the dealer. Oil was a tad dark then. And 3000 later I determined it was time to switch to Mobile 1. Here is the oil coming out. And I wanted to see what was inside of the filter too. So I cut it open. I expected it to be MUCH cleaner. By the way, the synthetic did make the engine a bit quieter.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't recall any metallic particles standing out during the inspection of the filter. It's most likely "fuzz". There were however dark "clumps" inside the pleats. Couldn't get them out to judge the nature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
5-20
 

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So, how hard was it to change the oil? I know in some cars, it's impossible to get to the filter without breaking your arm...
 

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Thats one plus with the duratec, its one of the easiest to change of any car ive done so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, how hard was it to change the oil? I know in some cars, it's impossible to get to the filter without breaking your arm...
It was very pleasant. You just have to remove the ground cover to get to everything. But after that, it's all in the open. But still not as easy as all of my Toyotas. Their filter is inverted located on the top side of the engine. Just pop the hood, reach in and unscrew. No messy oil filter drain when removing it.
 

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Just to add to newmission's original post, DIY oil change is a breeze. Up on ramps there's plenty of room to access all the screws for the air dam, the filter is very easy to remove and the drain plug is at the rear of the oil pan next to some cross hatching cast into the oil pan. Make sure you have a pan under the filter, a lot of oil spilled when the seal was broken. I would suggest getting a swivel filter wrench, a straight one won't fit in the space. The 13 screws are a T-30 torx, the drain plug is a 15mm and the filter wrench is the smaller diameter.
I decided to change over to Mobil 1 sooner than I planned and I'm glad I did. I took my car in for my complimentary oil change on Thursday and was planning on running that oil for 3000 miles or so before I switched. After I removed the dam, I noticed that the filter was leaking and covered with oil. It was a you know what to remove so it wasn't too loose, the only thing I can think is the guy over tightened it, causing the filter seal to warp. I'm glad I caught it before a long trip later this summer. And that's why I do my own oil changes! I drove the car on the freeway for around 10 miles to heat the oil, let it drain for 60 minutes and run it for 5 minutes checking for leaks. I know it's well drained and done right.
 

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What was the part number on the first oil filter?
Was that the same part number on the new oil filter? (or did you even use OEM?)
I didn't see the original filter but on a previous Ford, the filter from the factory was a non descriptive gray filter with only FoMoCo printed on it. My guess is it's looks like that because they keep the price down by not having any product info printed on the can and it's a way for service departments to see if you have changed the oil at least once. The Motorcraft filter is a FL-910S. Even though I switched to full synthetic, I stay with the Motorcraft filter, if there's ever any issues they can't say I used the improper oil filter.
 

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I haven't looked yet to see how much room is available. The 910 is a tiny filter is there room for the longer FL400S or the fatter FL300?

I always use the biggest filter that will fit on all my vehicles. Gives you more filtering area so the filter is less apt to bypass and adds a little more oil volume.
 

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that oil looks really black!! your gonna love the Mobil 1....if you continue to drop the full synthetic in the 3-4k range its gonna look redish when it comes out...its a beautiful site!
 

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I haven't looked yet to see how much room is available. The 910 is a tiny filter is there room for the longer FL400S or the fatter FL300?
So you have used a filter that's not recommended for the engine? The 2.0L Duratec is a small engine and my guess is the 910S filter is designed for and will work just fine. My Freestyle used a FL400S and I think that will be too long to fit under the air dam and I don't think a fatter filter would seat properly. I'm curious to know how it works out for you, keep us posted.
 

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The efficiency of modern high quality filters is so high that you don't need a larger one for any reason.
 

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The 910s filter is what was recommend on my 85 2.2 Daytona. Ford and Mopar have used the same filters since the 60's. It is just recently the thread the filter spins onto has changed and it changed on both Fords and Mopars. With the exception of the recent change in thread on some engines the gasket sealing surface has been the same so the only thing keeping you from using a bigger filter is the space available for it to fit.

The motivation to use a smaller filter is to save money. A few pennies across a whole years production is serious money.

You don't need a bigger filter but there is no down side if it fits and it adds filter capacity and additional oil. Just like synthetic oil, you don't need it but it provides superior lubrication.

I have been doing it since the 70's and every vehicle I have owned had gone well past 200,000 miles and I have never had an internal engine failure. I get rid of vehicles fir other than the engine wearing out.
 

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FWIW, there are always a lot of arguments over which filter is best. Here is some food for thought.

A buddy of mine just took a job as quality manager for a company that distributes air, oil, fuel, tranny filters for automotive applications. They have these filters manufactured in China and Taiwan.

The supply them to Wix, Fram, Purolator, Champion and others, basically every company that sells filters in the US has applications that come through there distribution center.

Wix, Fram, Purolator and Champion have their own factories too but they do not manufacture all applications.
 
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