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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been planning this for quite a while and after finding this thread I started acquiring materials.

Got it mostly done today. Still need some more crimps/lugs to complete the wiring and need to decide on what battery terminals to use. If anyone has any recommendations please speak up.

So this is how it sits. Camera was dead so used the phone, which recently decided to auto-focus to blurry always. I'll get better pictures when I work on it next.


Battery is mounted low and pretty darn close to between the rear wheels.


Battery is sitting in the tray that comes with the Optimas which I sheet-metel-screwed to the spare tire well. It clips into that quite nicely.

Top mount hold-down was made from a bracket I got from AutoZone and some threaded rod and nuts/washers. I'm going to be replacing the top nuts with some flange-style ones.

Got a 150-amp circuit breaker to mount in-line in the positive, hopefully it will be enough, seemed to be the largest I could find. Running 4awg wire front back, which was in place already from my audio setup.


Removed the tray and whatnot, just need to figure a way to mount the original cables. Another member who did this bought some battery post isolators from a marine store that look and function awesome, however I can't seem to find any for post-style terminals just for stud-style. We'll keep looking around.

Race season starts back up in September so hopefully this will be done asap!
 

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Premium Member
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21,256 Posts
If you're not wanting to simply replace the original wires with the new ones going to the back- in order to leave the OEM under the the hood, then what you need is either a terminal block for the wires or a large enough chunk of copper.

There are terminal blocks you can get that size. There's even a groovy splice kit that is basically terminals inside a plastic case. I don't know if it's rated or 300F+ like what's under a hood should be, but I can find out the parts numbers if you want them. That would give you a disconnect point under the hood, but not a jumper cable attachment point.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, I can't seem to come up with the right name for it but I have an idea to make one if I can't find any.
 

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Da fofo love remains
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1,538 Posts
draw it up on paint then post your creation for the rest to help ya out....
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got everything wired up and started it up tonight! Still need to go back and do some stuff for reliability but functionally its all in!

Be taking pictures tomorrow when its light out. Looks great!
 

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7,530 Posts
FWD cars are front end heavy. Moving any weight possible to the rear of the car will benefit the car greatly in terms of handling.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not just that but when I gutted the interior of the car it made the bias even more so. By relocating the battery to the rear, low, in-between the rear "axle" I have helped with balance in complex track maneuvers as well as traction in sweepers.
 

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3rd Time's the Charm
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1,943 Posts
173 whp in your light weight FF vehicle and relocating the battery to the back of the vehicle is about as smart as dragging an anchor in your speedboat.

Just sayin.

You want the back light, use the fact that you steer with the wheels that are powered to your advantage... they can be used get you in, thought, and out of corners as fast as possible with more bias (to a reasonable extent). If you need more grip in the back, why put in what amounts to a cement block? Adjust your existing suspension without moving weight off the drive wheels to compensate will be much more lucrative.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
173 whp in your light weight FF vehicle and relocating the battery to the back of the vehicle is about as smart as dragging an anchor in your speedboat.

Just sayin.

You want the back light, use the fact that you steer with the wheels that are powered to your advantage... they can be used get you in, thought, and out of corners as fast as possible with more bias (to a reasonable extent). If you need more grip in the back, why put in what amounts to a cement block? Adjust your existing suspension without moving weight off the drive wheels to compensate will be much more lucrative.
Do you ever autocross? This is like people saying wings on a FWD car are pointless...I have no traction issues up front, that's what sticky tires are for. What I need is balanced weight because the car is inherently oversteery. I don't need any more weight on the front end, that just increases plow, I want weight spread throughout the car to balance each corner. Placing weight low and in between the wheelbase is the best place for it. The battery's original location was high and offset to the driver's side not to mention outside of the wheelbase.
 

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I am planning on relocating, but with a smaller battery, more towards the front. I can see how keeping the rear light as possible for drag racing, but I'm not too sure what to think about it concerning autocross.
 

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Sückn' n Blown
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7,747 Posts
Do you ever autocross? This is like people saying wings on a FWD car are pointless...I have no traction issues up front, that's what sticky tires are for. What I need is balanced weight because the car is inherently oversteery. I don't need any more weight on the front end, that just increases plow, I want weight spread throughout the car to balance each corner. Placing weight low and in between the wheelbase is the best place for it. The battery's original location was high and offset to the driver's side not to mention outside of the wheelbase.
Yup. Moving Center of Gravity closer to the center of the chassis is ideal.

Its something I've always meant to do, just never had to time to do it. Based on the last time it was on scales, I was going to mount it in the passenger corner to even out the cross-weights.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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13,168 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yup. Moving Center of Gravity closer to the center of the chassis is ideal.

Its something I've always meant to do, just never had to time to do it. Based on the last time it was on scales, I was going to mount it in the passenger corner to even out the cross-weights.
Do it for FR, I dare you [;)]

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
 
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