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Discussion Starter #1
I had my 03 sedan lowered with SVT struts/dampers and Eibach pro springs , works and looks great.
I took it to my dealer for a wheel alignment and this is what read,
before: LF camber -1.12
caster 2.75
toe -0.02
set back 0.07
inc. angle 13.98
sai 15.10

RF camber -1.38
caster 3.12
toe -0.18
set back ----
inc. angle 13.81
sai 15.19

LR camber -2.26
toe 0.22

RR camber -1.94
toe 0.19

and heres the after:
LF camber -1.13
caster 2.75
toe -0.02
set back 0.09
inc angle 13.97
sai 15.10

RF camber -1.42
caster 3.12
toe -0.04
set back ----
inc angle 13.77
sai 15.19

LR camber -2.09
toe 0.20

RR camber -1.91
toe 0.20

The tech says that the rear camber is not adjustable without the special adapter from Ford that costs $200,
so he put in .020 Toe in the rear wheels to offset the high - camber (its still within Fords specs thou)

Does all this look right to U guys? I know a little - camber is good for handling.
 

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^^ That's what you need. The tech apparently has no clue what he's talking about. The front specs look fine, but the rear camber is definitely a little too negative, unless you are into tracking the car, at that setting it will definitely decrease some of the life of your tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks U all , thats what I was afaid of.
Will I be able to install this myself without getting another alignment or do these bolts have to beset through an alignment?
 

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Wow, that's a recipe for understeer. You should definitely have less camber on the rear wheels than on the front wheels. Maybe .5 on the rears at most. Also, it would help if you got some toe-out on both the front and rear. That will help with initial turn-in (front toe) and controlled rotation (rear toe). In a front-heavy FWD car, you really want to do everything you can to encourage controlled rotation of the rear end, and your current settings are the opposite of that.

Also, why are your caster settings so inconsistent? I mean, half a degree isn't going to make a ton of difference but if you are paying for a professional alignment then your settings shouldn't be that far off.

Doesn't sound like your alignment guy really knows what he's talking about. Check in with your local SCCA or other club guys and see where they take their cars locally. There's usually one guy in any area most racers go to because they know their stuff.

Also, make your settings, keep track of them, and then go autocross or really go push it to see how it's behaving. You'll know when it feels right and when it's wrong. Of course, I bet some of those same SCCA-types would be more than willing to help with that as well.
 

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i love being in the tire industry. if there are two things tire makers like to see it's drifting and bad camber. I think thats aprox what my svt is, i'd have to dig up the sheet but i rotate my tires diagonally because i have access to tire machines. it's more work for myself but it's way better for tire longevity on a lowered car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Carrera26 said:
Wow, that's a recipe for understeer. You should definitely have less camber on the rear wheels than on the front wheels. Maybe .5 on the rears at most. Also, it would help if you got some toe-out on both the front and rear. That will help with initial turn-in (front toe) and controlled rotation (rear toe). In a front-heavy FWD car, you really want to do everything you can to encourage controlled rotation of the rear end, and your current settings are the opposite of that.

Im feeling worse now , is the front camber adjustable w/o camber kit?
I find the car pull to the left a little now at higher speeds. After the drop and before the alignment it was fine.
 

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I believe all the specs are adjustable to a point without kits, it's just that with certain suspension changes, the car's specs are thrown out of whack enough that the stock equipment can't pull them back into alignment quite enough. So that's when you need a camber kit.

Like before my car was dropped, it was in alignment. The Prokit was installed and Sears showed me that it was slightly misaligned. They adjusted and all the specs were "back in the green"... without camber bolts or plates.
 
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