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BACON?
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Hello, I just got all my parts and tools to change the timing belt on my car, its at 75k. I have been searching and reading a lot of threads looking for some information on how to correctly set the cam timing. I found a couple links that no longer work, and lots of questions about the dtc code that comes up. Is there a good how to somewhere that i missed? should i just buy my self a shop manual, $125 on Ebay? and does anybody have any special tips for doing the belt? i would like to have this done in one shot if possible. [cheers]
 

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its pretty easy really. get the belt totaly uncovered and mrk the belt and gears with a paint marker. transfer the marking to the new belt (count teeth to be sure its the same spot) put it back on and live up the marks its that simple. do not loosen the gears and use the cam bar and crank tdc plug
 

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BACON?
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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, + rep. for some reason i thought the svt would be different.
 

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The paint marker/crayon thing might work, but I highly suggest you have some legit instructions on hand if you have to find out what's actually happening. I really don't understand doing this half assed or cutting corners like that.
 

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BACON?
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Discussion Starter #6
What would you suggest for legitimate instructions?
 

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A Chiltons or Haynes manual would really come in handy, I have a Chiltons manual and it has very detailed instructions. It briefly mentions the VCT, only really saying that it's incorporated into the intake cam sprocket, which suggests if you get the rest of it right it's kind of inconsequential.

I haven't timed an SVT, only a base Zetec, but if you haven't done it before or are working with somebody who has, I promise you'll find it worth a little extra money for a basic manual to have some guidance. I'm also going to look at Alldata on Monday to see if there's any more info than the Chilton manual provides.

I looked again at the paint marker thing and I can see how it could work, but the way I see it, the timing is the most crucial thing happening with an interference engine and it doesn't seem right to use shortcuts dealing with it.
 

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i just did the timing on my svt a few weeks back. some say the correct way is to loosen the cam gears, I however did not and it worked out for me with no codes. not saying my way was the right way, guess i got lucky. I inserted the cam tool, marked the old belt on the cams and crank. transferred the marks to the new belt(as mentioned above count the teeth to be sure) replaced the idler and tensioner, install the new belt lining up all your marks. i lined up the marks on the crank, installed the belt(counter clockwise) around the idler then the cams, it was a little tight going on over the tensioner. once on, set your tension. remove the cam tool and rotate the engine (by hand) a few times. installed the cam tool and crank pin again making sure everything is where it's supposed to be. the one thing i noticed that i have not seen mentioned on any threads here or anywhere was after you rotate the engine your marks on the belt will not line up with the marks you made on the cams/crank. the belt is designed with an odd number of teeth so it will not hit in the same place all the time on each rotation, minimizing irregular wear. i found the threads on here more helpful than the haynes manual on this one. not a hard job at all if you take your time. check out this on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4IgVvfovhA part 1, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRKtcM6fLB4&feature=relmfu part 2. not the svt but gave me a good idea on how to take everything apart in the right order. think i was 4-5 hours start to finish....
 

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Hatch Nation #136
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While an experienced mechanic can get away with short cutting when timing their engine, I wouldn't recommend doing it any way but by the book.

The SVT is an interference motor. It also has the VCT sensor that can make things tricky.

I would suggest that you use the bar and pin, loosen the cam gears and set the timing like Ford recommends. It may take a little longer, but it is certainly faster than rebuilding a head or tearing it apart to do it twice.

Good luck.

Posted via FF Mobile
 

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Taciturn. Your turn.
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I had two experienced mechanics with me when I did it and we had to loosen the cam gears because things wouldnt line just exactly up if we didnt. I recommend loosening the gears; I read the threads before I did it and it seems like the people that didn't do it got codes... and some got lucky.

I had a timing scare two weeks before the scheduled change; I got a code P1381 and the car ran bad for a day. It fixed itself the engine ran all the way up to the belt change.

Four months later no codes.
 

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I'm half way through this same job. Everything came apart easily except the intake cam gear. I loosened the exhaust cam gear and got the plug out of the intake, but I could not break loose the intake gear bolt inside the housing. I have the bar and TDC pin so I lined it all up the best I could, put the new belt on and tensioned it. I'll finish reassembling it tomorrow and hope I don't get a code. Any hints on getting that intake bolt loosened? I tried holding the cam with an adjustable wrench, then a vise-grips, but I couldn't do it.
 

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The car came with a new gates belt from the factory (ford timed it right).
You are putting a new belt back on, and unless you got a shitty/cheap belt its the same length and the teeth will be the same meaning the gears should be in the same spot.

Mark the gears to the cam and let me know how much you had to move it
 

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BACON?
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Discussion Starter #13
will do. I want to get this done ASAP. but work is keeping me busy, maybe next week. i will give a little update and review of what i thought of it when its over.
 
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