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Discussion Starter #1
My friend and I were working on my zetec focus, and after we got the belt replaced, I found that it walked a little to the outside of the gears... It looks to me that the tensioner not only handles the tightness, but the In/Out to keep the belt centered. Can someone clue me in on the front and back adjustments so we can get it to run true.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, sounds fair... there's two lever adjustments... the gold one on the front, and the silver on the back. I have seen lots of threads on the belt, but the tensioner's two levers are a mystery.

How to those work? which is which. I can see an aqua marker mark on the gold one... the silver has a groove that doesn't seen to point to anything.

[wrenchin]

I'm trying not to get mad. I am thankful that my mechanical friend goes to the same church as me... he's great at keeping me relaxed and focused. Working solo stinks... but he's gone for the day and I decided to fart around with it a little.

The other big Q is the whole TDC issue... how to you know if you are on a compression or exhaust stroke? Or does the car's "puter" figure that out with a cam sensor?
 

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FF's Night Security
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TDC is when the number one cyl is at the top of it's travel, the cams will have a line in the back you put the cam alignment bar in. You know your on the right stroke when they line up, then using the crank pin to insure that the crank does not move while setting the timing. Also you should loosen the cam gear bolt when setting the timing, just loose enough to allow the cam gear to move, then set the tension. Then tighten the cam gear bolts. I found it much easier to have two people when doing. One to hold the cams in place with a huge pair of pliers, while I tighten the bolt. Yes the car figures it out using the crank position sensor and there is also a sensor on the intake cam. But ultimiatly depends on the mechanical timing of the motor. It's not like you can just throw the belt on there and let the computer figure it out. There are many how-to's on here to help you with.

Now the tensioner. You want to line that tab with the line in the middle of the window. Do you know what I'm talking about? I don't have any pics with me since I'm at work. Use an allen key and a 10mm to adjust. Using the allen key line it up in the window then while holding the allen key tighten the 10mm bolt holding the tensioner on. Once tight you should be good to go.

Does that help at all? I'm not sure I was clear or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
perhaps.... The "window" is the rectangle cutout on the block where the tensoner's litle lever widget sits in yes? The hex key in the gold piece moves the little silver arm on the back... move it til it points to the middle of the cutout? yeah?
 

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FF's Night Security
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^^Yes, the color of them varies from brand to brand, so you saying what color it is doesn't help me lol, but it's still nice that you are trying. But yes move the pointer into the "window" or cutout, then hold it there and tighten the bolt down. It should stay in the window.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's still walking... out and off. Grr. The gold hex key is to adjust the tension... and the silver arm in the back is to tell you how tight it is... and I am to point the silver thing to the middle of the rectangle cutout on the motor block. That's how I have it... and it is walking off. There's just got to be something with that tensioner that I am missing. I rotate the motor, the belt slips outward.... it takes about 5 secs of turning over /w/ no spark plugs, and then you can see how much it walked.
 

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FF's Night Security
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Do you have it all buttoned up when cranking it over? All the covers should be on it except the top cam gear cover that one doesn't need to be. YOu should try starting it and see if it straitens itself out. Mine walked a little after resetting the tension then it straitened itself out. If it still does it then there is a idler pulley that can make sure it stays, I'll see if I can find it and post a link for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you have it all buttoned up when cranking it over? All the covers should be on it except the top cam gear cover that one doesn't need to be. YOu should try starting it and see if it straitens itself out. Mine walked a little after resetting the tension then it straitened itself out. If it still does it then there is a idler pulley that can make sure it stays, I'll see if I can find it and post a link for you.
Thanks 4 the help... I actually think you are right that it has a little something to do with the motor mounts... and the car not being level. I'll say a prayer and start putting things back together. I'm a bit to upset right now... and it's pretty darn late. I'll get my head together and try tommorow.

I really want this to work right. I didn't wait til the original belt failed.. and even though we are in Ohio road salt country, I couldn't believe how easy everything unbolted. It was just too easy up til now. I'll throw it together and say a prayer. We marked everything super carefully and locked everything in place. The new belt is in the EXACT same spots on the crank and cams that the old one was.. I was hoping to avoid if at all possible taking the valve cover off. We marked the belts and pulleys in many spots and lined the new belt up to all our marks... I'm dead on with the teeth count. It should run ok. If it DOESN't... GRRRRRR.. I'll be pulling the cover and doing all that stuff.

One who works on cars should take up drumming. It's good for dexterity, hand stregnth, and frustration relief.[drummer]

I was so dang careful with this stupid project, my friend has been a big help. I just want it to work.
 

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FF's Night Security
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You can still get to the tensioner with everything buttoned up. Now I've always used the cam and crank tool, but the timing is not your problem its that darn belt walk. Put it back together, and see how she does. Some walk is normal, get some rest and start fresh in the morning. It is late and you don't want to mess anything up, and really it's not that hard like you said till you ran into this little problem, just don't let it get to you, you'll figure it out.
 

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You can tell if the belt is at TDC on the cam with the valve cover off whether you have the tool or not. It sounds like you made good marks though. I'd do a compression test before trying to fire up the engine- that will tell you if you have made any mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I'm totally confident that the crank and cams are in the same spot with the new belt as with the old... I will spend the next availible time putting things back together...

The serpentine idler that must come off to remove the cover is a royal pain to get out of there... it just wants to hang up on the fender. If the bolt was a quarter inch shorter, it would have not been a problem... Let's see if I can get it back IN.
 

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The motor has quite a bit of movement without that motor mount in. You have to move the motor up and down to get room. Just keep an eye on the a/c lines by the radiator. Very easy for them to end up holding all the weight if you go too far down, oh and you can move it back and forth a lil too. By moving the motor up and down I had plenty of room to work, its was how it was designed to work on. Thank god we don't have to remove the whole drivetrain to do maintenance like on a some high end sports cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Our motor is sitting on blocks... so when we lowered the side of the car, the motor eeks up a little... that's how we did it last time. I've had to get creative with the "tight space" tools.. but no bolts have been rusted or really stuck very badly.
 

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Do you have it all buttoned up when cranking it over? All the covers should be on it except the top cam gear cover that one doesn't need to be. YOu should try starting it and see if it straitens itself out. Mine walked a little after resetting the tension then it straitened itself out. If it still does it then there is a idler pulley that can make sure it stays, I'll see if I can find it and post a link for you.
The link was in this thread. He was having the same issue.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262151
 
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