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so today me and my dad started to replace my timing belt, we followed the haynes repair book as it asks, and the we got to the part where i needed to losen bolts on cam shaft pulleys but we dont have a tool to hold the pulley any one know where they have some that are not to expensive or is there a substitute tool that can be used and are the bolts reverse thread or regular
 

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A big ole' pair of pliers works great. Or a should say some big ole channel locks is what I used. Clamp it down on the cam shaft right after cyl. number 1. You should see where there is a spot to grab the cam with. Have someone hold it while you loosen the bolt.
 

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If your old belt is intact You do not need to mess with the cams. Just mark the old belt and cam drive pullies and crank pulley, remove belt and transfer the marks to the new belt and reinstall. Align the marks to the marks on the cam pullies and crank pulley. You may need a second person to hold the cams in position to install the new belt. Use search and you will find several how-tos on this proceedure.
 

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JohnJ, I beg to differ. When I did my belt, the cam bar was extremely hard to put in the slots because they had move ever so slightly over the course of 7 years.

What I did was to lock the cams with the bar (keep the belt on) and the undo the cam bolts. Once they're loose, take the belt off, replace it and tightened those cam bolts as much as I could because I only had 3/8 torx sockets.
 

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There is a 13/16 or 21mm flat spot cut into the cams between cyl 1 and 2. It's easy to miss, but it's there. Use that to hold the cams still. Do not use the camshaft alignment tool to hold the cams still. Yeah, some guys might not break the back off their cams using the tool, but do you want to take that chance yourself?
 

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There is a 13/16 or 21mm flat spot cut into the cams between cyl 1 and 2. It's easy to miss, but it's there. Use that to hold the cams still. Do not use the camshaft alignment tool to hold the cams still. Yeah, some guys might not break the back off their cams using the tool, but do you want to take that chance yourself?
Correct. Correct. Do not count on the locking bar. Never. Never. Never.
Use the flat spot mentioned here.
 

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There is a 13/16 or 21mm flat spot cut into the cams between cyl 1 and 2. It's easy to miss, but it's there. Use that to hold the cams still. Do not use the camshaft alignment tool to hold the cams still. Yeah, some guys might not break the back off their cams using the tool, but do you want to take that chance yourself?
I'm ready to buy the parts for this job on my daughter's '02 wagon. I've got a 21mm wrench to go on the cam flats. Do I also need to buy the camshaft alignment tool? Besides the belt itself, should I get new "cam shaft pulley" bolts? Any other bolts?

And I thought I read somewhere (maybe here?) that I should replace the water pump at the same time - is that true? Should I replace anything else while I'm there? Her wagon has ~145k mi on it.

Thanks!
 

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I'm ready to buy the parts for this job on my daughter's '02 wagon. I've got a 21mm wrench to go on the cam flats. Do I also need to buy the camshaft alignment tool? Besides the belt itself, should I get new "cam shaft pulley" bolts? Any other bolts?

And I thought I read somewhere (maybe here?) that I should replace the water pump at the same time - is that true? Should I replace anything else while I'm there? Her wagon has ~145k mi on it.

Thanks!
Eiron...

I'm thinking you may want to start your own thread, so that you can get fresh answers...
 
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