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i have a 2002 2.0l zetec (ztw ftw) i did the 2 belts but when i was doing the timing belt it slipped when i let the tensioner go it moved and it was not off by much, so i put it all together started and now it runs like crap when idling, but runs better then before over 1000rpm it only seems like its going to die around 700rpm and dips lower sometimes... anyways , is there any way i can fix the timing?!![rant] is it possible the valves are bent? its runs really good even at cold starts and performs better for some reason?
 

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not sure if the marks are going to help me now.. im not sure how to fix this and my mechanics teacher at my school laughed at my ford saying the valves are bent.. if i take the valve cover off is there marks that i can use for timing instead of (tdc)
 

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Read the whole official procedure & you'll know there aren't traditional timing marks.

Slots in the cam ends for the official tool to lock 'em in position (or equivalent home made tool) & timing pin for tdc (or your choice of less positive tdc locating methods).

One hint for the official loosen & retighten timing gears to get it perfect (done with a timing belt that's NOT loosened) is NOT to use the bar in the slot to hold cams for either loosening or final tightening. Hold the cam with a wrench instead, otherwise you'll prob. break a cam slot.
 

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I'd pull it apart and do it over. Hold the cams with the tool, and put #1 at DTC. Then put the belt back on and put it back together.
 

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I have 2002 ZTW with 2.0 Zetec. I've done the timing job. The cam alignment bar WILL NOT GO IN. Even turned the crank 180 degrees, (cyl 1 and 4 fire at the same time) closer but not a fit. Back to TDC. The cam slots are exactly the width of the bar, below the block surface the bar lays on! I found a piece in my scrap and welded two pieces just the width of the cam slots and it worked perfect. This tool (before and after I modified it) was never intended to hold the cams for tightening. Once loosened, with the belt on, the gears must be held still, as the torx head cam retaining bolt is tightened. You don't hold the cams to tighten the gears. There are tools to hold the gears , but it was faster and cheaper for me to make my own. (I also made it to hold the crank balancer that has two holes to get a hold of and keep it from moving) I learned from watching all the you tube videos and you get a little right and wrong info from each one. I'm good with my hands, and never did this before. I know I can do most anything with instructions for dummy's. You will not find a video to do this job " for dummies", which is what I needed. I didn't even know what TDC is. Watch the video by "master tech" but remember, he thinks you are a mechanic, and leaves out/goes over too quickly, what he thinks you should know. I got a lot from a 90 something Contour timing belt video. (same engine)
 

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'The cam alignment bar WILL NOT GO IN. Even turned the crank 180 degrees...'

You don't turn the crank, you turn the cams, separately if need be. If cam bar still does not go in then incorrect thickness, the part is made wrong. Should be around .200" thick.
 

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one way to tell if the tool is the right size is just to rotate a camshaft to the postition the slot is vertical,and see if the tool fits then. If it does,you know you don't have it timed right when you are trying to line the cams up and time them. If it doesn't fit,tool is the wrong size. I found out on my son's escorts zx2,the cams have to be PERFECTLY straight before the "tool" will fit. tool should be 3/16" flat steel. I found a piece from my place of employment
 

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I don't know how to post a pic. I'd like to show you it doesn't matter what size the bar is. You couldn't put a toothpick in. On TDC 1st cylinder, the slots are totally below the surface of the block you lay the bar on. Both cams are PERFECTLY STRAIGHT. After I modified the tool, in lays on top of the block, and goes in the cam slots below. If you saw the tool lying on the block, and the slots parallel just below it, you might decide this is something you've never seen.
I felt safe turning the crank as a way to turn the cams 180 degrees. I didn't know if turning the cams independently from the crank, might change everything and put them out of sync with the crank. I saw Brian's Mobile run into the same situation on a different engine. He did what I did. He mentioned a garage told him later, that he could have rotated the crank 180 degrees and the bar would have gone in. Maybe so, but not on my engine.
I'd like to know more about turning the cams for another reason: I've heard a slight adjustment of the exhaust cam might make it purr more smoothly. I can't imagine how to do that.
When I was done, I showed my friend, a veteran mechanic, who said I did a perfect job. The engine runs great reved up and low idle. I've put 6000 miles on it since with no problems.
 

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Which end are you counting from when determining TDC #1?

Yes, adjusting the cam timing can aid operation at different speeds. Adjustable gears are avail. to make this easier to do accurately & repeatably.

(Hint - TDC #4 should put the offset slots below the head surface, and if timed accurately there it will work just as well)
 

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That numbering is correct, do you remember where the cam lobes at that end were pointing when you timed it?

I really think you timed it at TDC #4, and offhand I can't think of a reason that wouldn't also run for this engine.
 

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I'm sorry I don't. Remember, The bar does not go in at TDC #4 cylinder either; wouldn't that also be opposite lobes? What are you thinking?
 

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1 & 4 both come to TDC at the same time, the only difference between the two is cam orientation.

Cam lobes for #1 should face outwards for TDC#1 compression stroke, and at that time the offset slots should be above the head surface.

If you happened to time it with those slots parallel to the head surface & UNDER the surface, that should be TDC #4 compression stroke and it's just opposite of normal procedure.

Nothing else is timed in that procedure that would care at all which way it was done, as long as the slots are parallel & the end pistons are at TDC.
 

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@gfoote - for the purpose of engine timing, you need to use piston #1 TDC when on the compression stroke. If you are turning the crank to align the cam slots, you might need to make another turn to bring cylinder #1 at compression since the crank / cam rotation ratio is 2:1. This is the reason why the cam slots are offset from center.
 

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@ polygon:I did not need to turn the crank to align the cam slots. They were perfectly aligned.
@ saylor: I I remembered I took pictures and found them on my phone. Now maybe you can figure this out. The belt is on. The tool is in, under the surface of block. The 3/8 extension in the 1st cylinder is at the top of the stroke. The lobes on passenger side are pointing in. The lobes on the drivers side are pointing away. Are you telling me the 1st cylinder is at the TDC of the exhaust stroke? I thought TDC was always compression
 

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Are you telling me the 1st cylinder is at the TDC of the exhaust stroke? I thought TDC was always compression

Could be and you thought wrong.

4 Stroke Engine:
Start: piston at TDC
Intake Stroke: intake valve opens, exhaust valve closed, piston moves to BDC
Compression Stroke: intake & exhaust valve closed, piston moves to TDC
Power Stroke: intake & exhaust valves closed, spark plug fires, piston moves to BDC
Exhaust Stroke: exhaust valve open, intake valve closed, piston moves to TDC
Repeat
If you do not know this, stop what you are doing. Spend some time learning basic engine principles, then go back to replacing your timing belt.
Animated Engines - Four stroke
www.animatedengines.com/otto.html
 
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