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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thoughts on CFM Oil Separator Kit????

Just like the title reads gentlefolks [:)] I want to get some thoughts on the Oil Separator Kit sold by CFM. It goes between the PCV and intake manifold, but I have read that it can also be used between the upper breather hose and intake.

The reason that I am asking is that I am having some spark knock issues when the the temperatures get in the high 90's and I was told by a very reputable source that lowering the intake air temperature could help a great deal. Would this help???? If not, any other suggestions on lowering the IAT would be appreaciated.

P.s. I have an AEM SRI (breather connects in front of MAF) with the stock snorkel still attached.

Thanks
 

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The oil separator kit will only help you if your engine is sucking oil through the PCV system or blowing oil out the breather into the intake. Either situation CAN cause detonation because the oil mist acts to reduce the detonation resistance of the fuel.

The Separator will NOT do anything to intake temps.


Just thinking out loud.....you might pull the PCV valve and the breather from the intake and see if the detonation continues. If oil contamination is the cause...it should stop. If not, put them back on and look for other causes.
 

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Let me clear some things up

1st ALL engines that have the PCV hooked to the intake pull oil through them , ALL engines that have the valve cover hooked to the intake pipe pull oil through them as well as 150+ deg air this hot oily air can cause deto issues if you are on the edge already

Is this a cure NO but this with a lower thurmostat with the temps we have been seeing can curb slight deto that your only seeing with high outside temps

No i wouldnt buy the CFM kit , vent it out with a 3/8 hose on the PCV and a 5/8 on the valve cover and see if this helps any first

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So just vent it to atmosphere or should I put some type of filter at the end???

Where can I get plugs for the manifold and intake tube?? I would guess any hardware store right????
 

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Is there any long term negative to running a breather/catch can instead of having it plumbed back into the intake?
 

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tom told me to do the same thing when he tuned my car, all i did was run tubing to a point outta my engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dathlok X said:
Is there any long term negative to running a breather/catch can instead of having it plumbed back into the intake?
That is what I am trying to find out also. I've heard nothing negative so far though.

Quick question for svtguy or anyone else that has done this. Do you have a pick of how you rerouted the hose that goes from the PCV to the intake manifold???? Sorry if it sounds a little retarded, but I just found out where the PCV valve is [?|] [?|] [?|] and since it has been raining pretty constantly, I haven't had a chance to see where the hose plugs into the intake manifold.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I might go with a catch can instead of venting to atmosphere. I don't like the though of having and open hose directly connected to the engine that might have a chance to suck up some water. Does this sound reasonable???
 

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Could just buy a air/water seperator and brass fittings and cut into the PCV line that runs by the DSI clip. Found the air/water seperator in the air tool section at home depot. Total cost $16.
 

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I have a oil seperator on my Lightning, but have not put one on the Focus yet. I will sooner or later. Oil clean up every now and then is gay!

My question is for you Tom. How is all this un-metered air going to affect the vehical. Esp boosted ones? Under boost the pcv lines offten flow backwards. This is why in the Lightning world, no Tunner sugest running a PCV deleat or breather set up with out it being tunned for in the ecm. Things tend to go boom when not accounted for in the tune. I'm assuming the SVT Focus is no different? Please help me understand this.
 

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Any update on this Tom? I really want to know. I'd love to get rid of this 200* oily air blowing into my intake. But not if it will have the same effect that it does on Lightnings and Cobras.
 

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HalfTime said:

My question is for you Tom. How is all this un-metered air going to affect the vehical. Esp boosted ones? Under boost the pcv lines offten flow backwards. This is why in the Lightning world, no Tunner sugest running a PCV deleat or breather set up with out it being tunned for in the ecm. Things tend to go boom when not accounted for in the tune. I'm assuming the SVT Focus is no different? Please help me understand this.
First this isnt metered air , Metered air is air that has gone through the MAF this air coming from the engine has never gone through the MAF

At the valve cover install a 5/8 hose and take it to the ground. Remove the PCV and grind about .050 off the bottom this will let the ball and spring out and the engine to breath easier install a 3/8 hose and run this to the ground. Slide under the car and ziptie them to something cut the hoses about 1 inch lower then the trans this helps keep the smell out of the car and the small amount of oil from getting on any of the underside, plug the holes in the intake piping or where ever you had the valve cover line going to. On the intake side of where the PCV was hooked plug this hose as well

Engines like to breath , If your a tree hugger then this may not be for you and a catch can would work IF it is hooked up properly but most people buy the pritty ones and they spew oil out all over everything

Tom
 

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Awesome, thanks for the reply. But one more question, how does the air get into the engine in the first place? Blow by. Also, it is sucked in every now and then through the PCV. So in fact, it is metered air. But I'm guessing that little bit, in the 2.0l anyways, causes no harm? So, I'm going to do it, sounds like to me that it has been done several times to no ill effect. And I'd love to get rid of this hot ass air being blow into the intake. Thanks for the How To. You should have the moderators post this in the How To.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have this done to the valve cover breather hose. I'll see if I can post a pick when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So far I have only done this to the valve cover breather hose. I'll do the PVC after I finish some other projects. I haven't found any oil in the surrounding area nor in the hose itself. However, the hose does get very hot and in the previous configuration, all that heat was going straight to my intake tube. Also, I have noticed a drop of 2 degrees (using my predator) in the difference between ambient temp and IAT. Not sure how 'scientific" my findings are, but I guess every bit counts.

In this first pic, you can see the breather hose take its new southerly course. Also, I can use the ignition coil cover again, which I was too lazy to take off for the picture.



This pic is of the underside beneath the battery tray. Also note the simple, yet effective zip ties used.



That's it, nothing more to it.
 

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macdiesel said:
Could just buy a air/water seperator and brass fittings and cut into the PCV line that runs by the DSI clip. Found the air/water seperator in the air tool section at home depot. Total cost $16.
I've tried those on both the contour and the lightning, they don't work well.

The smaller air/water seperators would catch a little oil, but would let most through right away. I tried a larger seperator in the Lightning and that worked well for a little while, but it eventually started to work.

If you want to buy one that works, they get pricey. The effective ones that I have seen have a few chambers inside along with some metal strand type material that the oil clings to. Unfortunately I don't remember any links to them or better details.


If you search the internet there are plans for building your own seperator using a 6" piece of PVC pipe, some endcaps, a drain, 2 barb fittings and stuffing it with either a loufa pad or those SOS scrubbing pads (no detergent or anything in them).

I made one of those to try out. So fars it working pretty good, but I want to give it some mileage before my final judgement. The only problem is instead of using an 2 caps with a drain on the bottom, I picked up a PVC endcap that has a screw out bottom, and unless it's incredibly tight it leaks a little. But with the screw bottom you can pull out the loufa pad and drain the whole thing better then just a drain valve from an air compressor.
 

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I've heard of people making them out of PVC pipe and SOS pads. The home depot route was out of ease, didn't really feel like constructing a catch can. So far doing the job. Like to see your set up. If you could post pictures, would be cool.
 

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macdiesel said:
I've heard of people making them out of PVC pipe and SOS pads.
I couldn't find the SOS pads so I just used a Loufa (sp?) pad, got 3 for $1 at the dollar store.

The original plans using SOS pads was a pdf file. This link should work:
Right click, save as


Here are the picks of what I did, note it's currently installed in a SVT Contour (the biggest oil sucker I have seen):
http://captainoblivious.tripod.com/separator/separator.html
*note you will probably get pop-ups.


I'm still testing it so I can't say how effective it is. I pulled the pad out and there was alot of oil after less then 1,000miles. But I haven't pulled the intake manifold and TB to see how much if any oil got through.

You can see the difference between the one I made and the original. If you try mine, make sure the bottom is tightened good or else it will pull air through and leak some oil.

If you try the original idea, make sure the drainage valve is installed right. Since the threads are higher then the PVC thickness, if you screw it in all the way it will be raised up and will only drain the level of oil above the threads. The valve needs to be installed flush on the cap so it can drain all the oil.
 
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