Focus Fanatics Forum banner

141 - 160 of 254 Posts

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #141
Day two tare down.

Removed the CAT and O2 sensors. I need to get new hardware and found that I had an exhaust leak at the CAT to flex junction. Had some good black deposits out the side of the flange.

Removed header, glad I got the upgraded ARP bolts as they came out easy the copper anti seize also likely helped.

Alternator also removed.



Going to try to remove the rest of accessories and start on the timing belt and cams in the morning.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #142


top views does not look like much has changed. starter is removed though. brakes, knuckles, and half shafts on both sides are removed. almost ready to drop the transmission

got the rings in the mail today and got the valve seals yesterday. Fel-Pro valve seals for $14 a set. got two for both heads I am going to have machined.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
more boxes today:



glad to see the oil pan gasket in the kit now. and got the tri-metal bearings for the rods and mains. Looks like Clevite and Federal are making the better bearings again for the Zetec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Are you having Hunter Machine Shop rebuild the motor again? They were the ones who did it the first time right? I had actually took your advice and had him rebuild the head on my Svt. Great build btw, we have got to do a local meet when you get the focus back running!
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #145
He did the valve job on the head. I had the guy down at parts + in sandy do the work on the block. I did all my own ring gaping and assembly.

Only thing I did not like was he did not clean the head as well as he should have and got glass beads still in the oil valleys and it took a while to clean out and I did not get them all and they have scared the stock cam shafts.

I will be taking my head to him to work again. but with the oil valley plugs all removed and ask him to wash it a few more times to make sure its fully clean.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #146
Spent more time on the motor getting it torn apart.

Took the head off:




Quite a bit more deposits on Cylinder #2, which is to be expected:



Taking a look at the cylinder walls with the pistons still in:



I found a grove in Cylinder #2 wall:



Took the oil pan off and found some chunks:


Then took the pistons out and found this joy:






So the block looks like it will be scrap due to the 85.5mm over bore for the pistons and the depth of the grove is more than what my honing brush would likely take out.

So looks like I will be going to the junk yard to get a new block and will have all the machine shop labor in that. I am guessing I should grab the crank and mains from the block I get at the yard and use those? Meaning balancing and what not again.

I am working to see if JE will warranty the piston as this clearly looks like a stress fracture in the piston. Fingers crossed. Good news is that the rods appear to be in good shape. No dents or dings in the rods or the crank. The aluminum from the piston is MUCH softer than anything else in the block. The bearings looks clean (even though I have new ones that I will use).
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #148
no, the beads were only in the head and pushed to the ends of the oil valleys. the bearings look clean and almost new still. no indication of anything in the crank.

I belive this is failure due to a defect in the aluminum piston that took time to show evidence. it was a few days after a track day that the ticking occurred when I was doing the timing belt replacement. so either failed due to manufacture defect or sustained speeds, high rpms, and high loads.

I will still get another set of JE Pistons as another local racer who is running boost at the track has used all other vendors and said that the JE have been the best so far and feel the highest in quality and strongest. (he has broken both Probe and Super Tech)
 

·
FUBARCUS
Joined
·
7,763 Posts
Good luck with the rebuild. I just went through the thread a bit more and saw your post in the Zetec chat area.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #150
thanks. going to get a whole motor and a block. put the motor in the car so I can still DD it while I get the funds to build the motor back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Dang man, that's no fun to find those kinds of issues. Hopefully the next go goes a lot better!
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #152
thanks... depending on if I feel like it's safe to use the rods again I am questioning how much the financial difference would be in doing a V8 5.0L 302 swap...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
That would be sick! I think it would kinda ruin the handling though haha. From memory, there are kits out there to toss a V8 in a Focus, and I'm pretty sure a kit without the engine is like 20 grand, so if you're looking for opinions, I would probably either just keep the rods, try and find one new one, or just buy a new set. ~$400 to me seems a lot easier to swallow. But that's just my .02 cents :)
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #154
motor and transmission out.





parts are all in the basement. garage is now cleaned up and will be ready for a motor from the junk yard.

 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #155
Status update...

Got a motor on Wednesday from the junk yard for $215 after taxes, warranty, and core charges. Found a 2000 Zetec motor on a automatic transmission in good condition. Things so far are checking out good, fingers crossed it will still run and fire up good.



the timing belt and pulleys were all shot so replaced those with items off my motor. So timing belt and pulleys replaced. along with transferring the water pump.

put on additional brackets yesterday.

This morning put on the alternator and mounted up the transmission. Always the hardest job for a 1 person effort.



have some odds and ends to clean up and work on before I put the motor in the car.

Fluids should be here on Monday. hope to have it ready to fire up on Monday with fingers crossed.

as a note I did already swap the crank position sensor with my manual sensor also.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #156


intake manifold, starter, T-Stat installed.

going to try to clean up the injectors and get them installed.

final clean up and might try to get it in the car tonight or tomorrow.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #157
Update:

I did a Google search on the vin and it looks like it had 159,494 miles on it when it hit the auction block on July 8th so motor had what I am calling 160,000 miles on it. Being that my speedometer is a bit slow still my car has 194k rounding up to 200k miles I still got a motor with less miles than the body.

Got the motor in:




But when it started the clutch would not fully disengage. I could start the motor in neutral and let it run all day. but no mater how many times I would bleed the slave cylinder it still world not shift. I could hear the clutch "slipping" when I pushed the clutch in. I was suggested that I may have put the clutch in backwards also.

So I got parts ordered for a new slave cylinder and master cylinder while I was at it. Remove the transmission and the pressure plate.

And that is what I did wrong end to the fly wheel.

Nothing to bad. I think due to the ARP hardware the springs are not that bad and the bolts are not that bad either.





Then once I got the thing all put back together it was not starting. When I started the starter would just click. Not a bad battery, double checked grounds.

I took the starter out and with clamps on the posts it started and spun fine. I hook it back into the cars electrical and it would short again. Turns out the solenoid was loose enough in the crimp housing that when the bolts were torqued down it rotated the housing just enough to push the braid against the metal housing of the starter.

Well I got a new starter anyway (life time warranty and the current one was 6.5 years old) and put some tape around the starter so in any future case it could not short against the case.

Car is running well and working on tuning from Tom. So data logs back and forth now.

It no longer stalls with the AC turns on and no more ticking noises!!!!

I am going to clean up the old block and pistons and likely try to turn it into a coffee table for our room with a glass top.

And for the build I am going to be going to the junk yard when the weather gets nicer and pulling a short block. This will be the start of the next build. The plan is so I can do a weekend motor swap once I have the new motor completely built.

I am thinking of going for NA high compression. Getting 11:1 compression pistons, 0.030" shave of the head, Stage 3/4 Crower cams, Oil pump gears (for the high RPM).

I have some time to think about it before I have $ for the pistons.
 

·
Lurking...
Joined
·
2,180 Posts
I've been following this build for a long time. You've put so much work into this! very impressive! Looking forward to more updates on this guy!
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #159
Well, I got a 2004 new to me SVT Focus 5 door. So the Tick will be more of a garaged car and tracked. So will be starting a slow full out build and interior gut out for cage and race seat.

Found this hood at the junk yard.


Requires some fiberglass work but for $23 is worth a shot to restore and repair to then paint. I got a paint gun for Christmas also to do auto body paint. Might be the first project to work on.
 

·
Thats What She Said
Joined
·
10,686 Posts
Discussion Starter #160
Been a while since I posted last.

Got the group buy of the super hubs competed so will have 2 sets of new hubs that can handle the abuse of the track.

For prep got new bearings and when studs.



Going to add my own bullnose to the studs as they don't offer then from ARP. I have confirmed with ARP that as long as the bolts don't change color post grinding will not impact the strength of the bolt.



Went 4 threads in a little over 1/4" into the bolt.

One thing I need to work on is the shifter cable.


The up/down (black and white coupler) has popped out of the housing a few times on me now. Might be from being a bit aggressive in shifting and need a new clutch (on the plans next time the trans it out for a LSD.) wondering if there is some sort of clamp other than zip ties that could be made. Thoughts on any down fashion with clamping this from the top?
 
141 - 160 of 254 Posts
Top