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Discussion Starter #222 (Edited)
wow very nice, you been to the nurburgring?! awesomeness! subbed
I have been there... Bought the tee shirt... Hahah. But unfortunately was unable to race on it. I was there for business and checked a few weeks in advance and it was going to be open. But the day before driving out I checked the schedule and it showed that there was a touring car race that got rescheduled for that weekend.

So instead of driving a car on it I saw others much more skilled than me driving around. Was able to go to the famous Pinocchios Pizza and also Sabine Schmitt s family's dinner.

And I guess if there was any question I did not have my car over in Germany. Had a rental and was going to get a track car rental for the track. I know there is one guy here that actually took his US spec car to the ring and drove it.
 
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Discussion Starter #223 (Edited)
got quite a bit of work done on the car over the last few weekends.

Got the front radiator support bracket from GTS Racing and was able to get it installed:





Its a tight fit for the SVT header but was able to wedge it in.



Powdercoat in that area wont survive long...

But to fit the support I found out that my lines to my AC heat condenser core were in the way so, why not pull it now....



good buy old AC.



The AC was gone so when i opened the system I barely got a his. 5-6 drops of oil was all that came out.

Got a standard Gates belt on. it was a PITA to get on compared to past belts. I think that my old belt was just worn so was a little stretched but getting on the new belt for the length with no AC was quite the task. but got it on and opened up some space in that part of the engine bay.

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I cut the lines at the passenger wheel well. I will work on getting the lines out and the evaporator out of the dash when I work to pull more of the interior climate controls.

With the condenser out I think I really need to figure out a shroud for my radiator. The gap is now HUGE. having the aftermarket bumper does not help either as I cant find or use the stock air deflectors. So some custom work is likely on order. The race weekend looks to be in the low 80's so wont be a HOT day but will need to keep an eye on temps and may have to get the shroud worked out before the potential Aug or September track day.

On top of that I have worked with Damond Motorsports to fit check and sample a brake caliper bushing for the SVT brakes.

I am please to announce that they fit and the short drive around the block was good. I am taking the car out to the track the 14th and 15th so will get a full run down there.









This removes the old rubber bushing insert and puts in what appears to be a brass bushing with a gasket to keep it sealed. the much tighter tolerances allow for much less deflection in the caliper under braking. so the brake pad surface keeps a more consistent and uniform contact patch.

On inspecting and doing these brakes I found that my driver side was down to 4.5mm of pad material and the passenger had more (did not measure but the groves in the center of the pad where just barely visible. Going to swap them out after the track session. Should be able to get nine 20-25 min sessions in on these pads before they are gone. Hope to get to HPDE4 by the end so I can get and use the HAWK contingency program and get the 30% discount on some HP+.

Car is coming along.

If you are running a full synthetic how often to you change your oil if the car is more or less sitting? I have started it and let it idle (and done a few throttle revs) and get up to temperature every 30-45 days. But has not seen more than 30-40 miles in the last year+ (trying to find when I did the last oil change and I cant find it...) Oil is a shade darker than new but is still a clear medium amber color.
 
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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter #224
Well I think I fixed the cruise control. The silly sensors that are on the pedals don't always stay put being 19 years old. The green one had popped out.

I have not looked at the electrical schematics yet but guessing the green one is for the cruise control. Black and red are the other two colors, so one will be for brake lights and not sure what the other would be. Used if the car was a automatic for starting?
 

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Use best judgement but without an oil cooler and the way the header runs under the oil pan adding more heat to the pan change the oil before each event. The zetec like the duratec carries tremendous oil temps and without an oil temp gauge this is the best cheap insurance. We just came off track running two duratec motor cars at Charlotte motor speedway. One 90 min enduro with extended time at full throttle in 3/4/5 gears and we saw temp over 350*. Nervous yes until I stopped looking at the gauge and just went to drain and fill before any event. Preventive maintenance on the car on every system is your best program. Spares brought to the track mean u won’t need them, it makes for a more enjoyable time at the track not wrenching
 

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Discussion Starter #226
Use best judgement but without an oil cooler and the way the header runs under the oil pan adding more heat to the pan change the oil before each event. The zetec like the duratec carries tremendous oil temps and without an oil temp gauge this is the best cheap insurance. We just came off track running two duratec motor cars at Charlotte motor speedway. One 90 min enduro with extended time at full throttle in 3/4/5 gears and we saw temp over 350*. Nervous yes until I stopped looking at the gauge and just went to drain and fill before any event. Preventive maintenance on the car on every system is your best program. Spares brought to the track mean u won’t need them, it makes for a more enjoyable time at the track not wrenching
Thanks! have an oil pressure gauge, but no oil temp. I have a "spare" SVT Oil "cooler" have been thinking about running that or just going with a full cooler that uses a sandwitch plate w/ built in thermostat and run lines to a cooler.

I hope to be able to pick up a off road pipe and wrap it to help with the whole exhaust right under the oil pan.

I think I will be good for this weekend. Will change it for next track day for sure. It has been a while since I was at the track so will be taking things slower... but I say that now, I am sure that will change once I actuially get on the track.
 
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Be slow to add a cooler, oil pressure drops over the length of the lines to the cooler. We built multiple motors and lost them all with everything pointing to pressure and volume drops due to oil cooler. Sounds crazy but new motor runs great, install cooler to bring down oil temp, lose motor. Two years now with no cooler and same motors in both cars. Yes they were always new coolers, it becomes an issue of oil pump volume and size of oil lines. Change the oil frequently if you don’t install a cooler. Cheap insurance. My wallet is proof.
 

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Discussion Starter #228
I will get the oil changed after this weekend at the track.

I will also likely look at getting a Escape oil cooler (like the SVT) and get the C-F-M silicone hose kit for those extra bits and run that kind of cooler. That way its as minimal as possible. Also a minimal of cooling but at least its something? Not sure how much that kind of cooler actually works. But anything helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Well, had a great time at the track. Nothing broke!

Father-in-law brought out his RV and we stayed at the track. Had a good sunset the Thursday night:


Woke up and ready to race:


some action shots:







Now have more authentic "body" damage i.e. rubber marks from having fun:


Car drove well and handled great. Happy with the alignment. I need to get the laser temp sensor and start measuring temperatures and pressures. Measured tire roll and was not getting to much roll but might need to drop the PSI a bit.

Need new brake pads. Going to go with the HP+.

Got bumped up to HPDE4 so can use the HAWK discount but that discount is the same as just buying them on Amazon... so yea.

Need to figure out the oil. I think my C-F-M PCV delete is venting to much oil out into the catch can (about 2-3 cups worth after a 20 min drive session). So during some of the 35 min sessions I noticed my oil fluctuated a bit when in a long high speed turn. Over filled the oil by a few cups to compensate for the loss but need to get it fixed. Might go back to the stock oil air seperator so it will drain back into the oil. But can say the oil in the engine is looking still brand new and the stuff I pull from the catch can is black. Need to do a compression check to make sure the motor is strong but know that this is common for this part, works great under normal driving, but when at sustained high speed RPM's...

Also might look at an oil accumulator to compensate if the pressure drops a bit. When I start my engine build over the winter I am contemplating on going with a dry sump system and get cams and tune things up for a high rev motor. High compression, 110 octane, making power to +7k RPM likely still a dream but have most the parts for it, just need the cams, pistons and dry sump.
 

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Not familiar with your catch tank but make sure u are routing the hose with an up hill travel to the tank and is the tank vented well. We have a duratec motor, the pvc system delete is on the front of the block. The catch tank is mounted drivers side on the strut tower. Not well vented, tank full, big filter on the tank almost no blow by, and that’s what your gettin. Don’t overfill the motor keep tabs on the level, over is almost as bad as under. Look at a bigger filter for more capacity. We ran at Charlotte Motor Speedway last week, after the review of the data and video we were hitting the limiter in 5th gear and we were in this gear longer than any other track we run, very little oil puking. Bent that catch tank. Pics were great, doing it with family is even more special. Congrats
 

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Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
Not familiar with your catch tank but make sure u are routing the hose with an up hill travel to the tank and is the tank vented well. We have a duratec motor, the pvc system delete is on the front of the block. The catch tank is mounted drivers side on the strut tower. Not well vented, tank full, big filter on the tank almost no blow by, and that’s what your gettin. Don’t overfill the motor keep tabs on the level, over is almost as bad as under. Look at a bigger filter for more capacity. We ran at Charlotte Motor Speedway last week, after the review of the data and video we were hitting the limiter in 5th gear and we were in this gear longer than any other track we run, very little oil puking. Bent that catch tank. Pics were great, doing it with family is even more special. Congrats
Thanks. I have a generic and admit crappy catch can. It is a Slick Speed one that was a two port which I made into a three port. The canister is located up where the battery would be. with no filter just a hose. I hook up to the valve cover and the crank and then have th vent hose routed down behind the front cross member.

I am using large 5/8" ID hoses for the vents and connections. The catch can is high up in the engine so there is about 2 feet of hose with an incline from the block before gravity keeps it from draining into the block vs into the catch can.

Yea over fill can be just as bad, problem was only really noticeable after my 30-35 min drive sessions. I put about 1/3 qt more once I got to the top dot on the dip stick for oil level.

Larger Oil filter, humm, I am running the FL-400S. Wonder what will work that has the same thread and gasket size & location as that. Looks like a possible fit would be the Mobil M1-209 which is a cross ref to the wix oil filter Wix51516XP. Looks like the FL-1A also would fit the block... but to now see if it fits in the engine bay with everything hooked up. Think I have a spare FL-1A laying around I can do a dry fit. This still would not solve a oil starvation issue I am seeing due to cornering and the oil pick up not being fully submerged, because my capacity is being put in the filter, not at the oil pan.
Edit: Humm, looks like those filters I mentioned are already the cross reference to the FL-400S so would be the same size & capacity. Looks like seeing if the FL-1A (Wix PN: 51515XP) will fit a focus... A quick FB and internet search does not really bring any thing up, so will have to get out there my self and do a fit check or see if the extra 1/2" in depth and 0.6" in width would cause a problem. Thats only 0.3" larger in a radius, dont recall anything being that close to the oil filter.

Here is a picture of the engine bay:


Think the highest I got was around 6,500 RPM in 1 turn, kept most of my shift points at 6K so I would be not to far below 4k when I shift. I think that is optimal power band range being max TQ is at 4500 and max HP is at 5300 RPM.

Hitting the limiter in 5th gear, must be a long and fast track. Looks like you use a large section of the outer loop?
 

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We actually run thru 1/2 of turn one and then all the way around the big part of the nascar track thru 2/3/4 and down the front straight, I am entering the back straight off of turn 2 shifting into 5th gear so I carry it flat out for at least 1 mile until we enter the infield again. That entrance is at the end of the pit out for nascar. It is a stressful period for the car as it’s so long in wot in 5th. Try venting the tank as the first step before re-engineering what looks like a well developed set up. We had an accusump in the 4 door but we also had a cooler so while the accumulated oil in the pressure system was good, the base issue was the oil pump in the system. Now dry sump, dam I wish my rules allowed that, they don’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
We actually run thru 1/2 of turn one and then all the way around the big part of the nascar track thru 2/3/4 and down the front straight, I am entering the back straight off of turn 2 shifting into 5th gear so I carry it flat out for at least 1 mile until we enter the infield again. That entrance is at the end of the pit out for nascar. It is a stressful period for the car as it’s so long in wot in 5th. Try venting the tank as the first step before re-engineering what looks like a well developed set up. We had an accusump in the 4 door but we also had a cooler so while the accumulated oil in the pressure system was good, the base issue was the oil pump in the system. Now dry sump, dam I wish my rules allowed that, they don’t.
Yea talking to a few people about the dry sump... its about a $1,600 mod to the engine. Thats the price of the built engine.

Think I might go with a oil relocation and put the filter on a bracket that bolts to the AC compressor bracket. I can run a much larger oil filter which will help with capacity and should not impact the oil pressure (if the lines are sized correctly a larger filter with more media means better filtering with less drop). Also means that the filter will stay filled and can be changed with out getting oil all over the CV shaft and cross member.

I have braided AN lines for a mechanical Oil pressure gauge in the head. I may tap off the oil valley off the back of the block (larger fitting) and put an accumulator in that tap and see how that works out.

Next track day is going to be October, so have a few months to work this. The track configuration is a outer loop and full track which puts the track in a 3,600 foot straight out of a turn. I might have to shift to 5th for that one. I will also get a better Catch can that just uses a massive filter on top.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
msperber: What kind of catch can are you running? Looking at a open vented one vs a baffled one. It looks like the baffled ones are really designed to have vacuum still pulled vs just vented.

There are generic large canisters that have the large air filter vent on top. There are then ones like Saikou Michi Co. Home and https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-3-port.html which use a baffle but not sure if they work well just being vented.
 

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I will try to get a pic of mine but my location is almost the same location as yours and it’s total capacity is about 1/2 quart. It has two ports on the side and one large bent on top. We sourced it from summit, less than 35$ if I remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
I will try to get a pic of mine but my location is almost the same location as yours and it’s total capacity is about 1/2 quart. It has two ports on the side and one large bent on top. We sourced it from summit, less than 35$ if I remember correctly.
Non baffeled right? I have seen that one, looks like a clone or version of the Moroso one. which I guess costs a bit more becuase your buying the "name".
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Metal picked up from a metal shop, and cut and made into a bracket for oil relocation







Figure running along the body rail would be a good place to run the lines. I will add on the SVT Oil cooler I have and then a relocation kit. run big fat -10AN lines so there is minimal addiitonal pressure drop.

And by running the remove I can put a hefty filter to also increase the filter surface area and the oil capacity of the engine.
 

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Ok the idea of the relocation project is great, no to an 10 lines. Way to large, the oil pump will not keep up for the amount to travel to and from the filter. Calling out to Tom who has helped us with this very issue. If you are going to do the remote, small lines to setup. Tom if you see this please advise on an line size.
 

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Discussion Starter #239 (Edited)
Ok the idea of the relocation project is great, no to an 10 lines. Way to large, the oil pump will not keep up for the amount to travel to and from the filter. Calling out to Tom who has helped us with this very issue. If you are going to do the remote, small lines to setup. Tom if you see this please advise on an line size.
Humm, I thought part of the issue with oil coolers and other things was the drop in pressure seen before it gets to the block? The larger lines (which the good or name brand remote kits are all - 10AN fittings at the fittings) would remove any pressure drops related to moving the filter. I will do a bit more research on it. Have some time before I buy all the peices.

Edit: most what I am seeing so far (Granted is small blocks) is showing to run - 12AN... You want to run lines that are larger than the oil galleys in the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
So many wants and projects right now.

Got my HAWK HP+ Pads through the NASA HPDE Contingency program:


Going to get these installed after FocusFest and use them on the October Track day.

Got a new catch can and Valve cover breather.


Not the Moroso one I was first looking at but this Amazon one had good reviews and has some internal baffling. No filter media but a series of tubes and cut flaps for the oil to condense onto.

Installed into the car:


The large K&N filter on the breather and the venting of the crank PVC I am hoping will help with collecting the amount of oil I was in the old system.

We will see how the October track day goes and if I am still collecting high amounts of oil I think I will have to look more at the Accusump to keep me out of the danger zone in the long high speed turns.

Debating on the oil filter relocation kit. Looking at the Canton Motorsports Racing relocation kit. High quality and comes with all the parts and has a port that can be used for the Accupump if I go that way. Also looking at their bypass less oil filter. Filters down to 8 microns and filters ALL the oil. After doing more research and seeing the bypass valves it seems like 95% of the oil bypasses the filter medium. a 20psi bypass valve and when at 60-80 psi operating pressure equals not filtering the oil.

My battery also died. load tested at the part store and it was dead. Got a Optima replacement and then 20 min later realized I should not take the time to get a lighter weight battery. Went with the Deka ETX20L battery at 15 lbs vs the 35+ lbs the Optima was.

Also upgraded the fuse to a breaker so it will be easier to disconnect the battery. Had a rear brake light out also and upgraded to LED.



Also some more weight reduction was made on the passanger side:
 
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