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Discussion Starter #1
I'll start from the very begining. As far as I know, I, other than Focus Central, am the only person with underdrive pulleys on their PZEV. I am certain I was the first too. Since then I am not sure, but whatever the case. At the time I did my install it was unknown what kind of damage could be done to the PZEV motor if not done correctly. The installation went fairly smooth and after just a few issues, the car ran great. Absolutely perfect. After my install another Focus owner tried to install the same product. He severly damaged his engine. So much to the point where he had to get a whole new one. At first I did believe it was just an error on his behalf, and not that I just got extremely lucky. Up until last night.

Yesterday morning I was on my way to class when I got a CEL. I immediately thought it was because of the pullies. I havent done anything else to the car yet. Even with the CEL on however, the car ran as if there was no problems. Then it starts blinking and I lose all power. Not power as in radio and headlight power, power as in horsepower. The car is now driving like my 92 Geo Prizm. So I pull over and shut the car down for a minute. I try starting it again and the CEL is still on, bu the car is running fine. A couple minutes later it happens again. I go through the process of pulling over and shutting down the car about 5 times before I am able to get it home. So there my car will sit for the day.

After I get out of work at 10 my buddy who is an engine guru comes over and we tackle the motor. First thing we do is take off the valve cover. That only took about 20 minutes because of all our stupid wire harnesses and shit. Not to mention then 30 bolts that hold it in. So finally after thats off we get to look at the cams. Everything is in allignment. We check the timing and thats fine too. That's a huge relief.

Next we take a look at the pulleys. As soon as I get underneath the car I know where my main problem is. The pulley cover is drenched in oil. So that comes down and I see the leak coming from the crank bolt. The entire pulley and the Crank Angle Sensor is covered too. So we take off the main bolt, clean everything up, torque the bolt back down with my buddies torque wrench and put everything else back together. We start up the car and to my relief no CEL comes on. The car is running perfectly fine except for this ticking noise coming from the crank pulley. We take a look and the pulley is somewhat broken. The teeth are loose and wiggling around as it spins. We imagine the the sensor cant read it right and the ECU is gettin ****ed up because of it, which is throwing me my CEL.

So we discovered all this at 1:30 in the morning. We decided to call it quits and we will now tackle it again in about half an hour. I will post the finish to this later on tonight.

As far as Focus Central parts go, I'll be giving them a call. I am extremely unhappy with the quality of the product. There is no reason those teeth should be that loose.
 

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Sückn' n Blown
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I have a set on now. I cheated. I paid a race shop to install it, just because I don't have the time or the correct tools right now.

Did you reuse the crank bolt? Its a torque to yeild bolt, and must be replaced.
 

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No the FC pulleys are fine on the zetec.

Disturbed didn't replace a torque to yield bolt and had an oil leak which is the cause of his problem.
 

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The parts are not bad. The quality of the installation seems to be in question.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually no, the part is very bad. After finishing up fixing everything I have come to these conclussions.

FC made a huge mistake by making the teeth of the crank pulley a seperate piece from the part that attaches to the belt. It is held in place by 3 bolts that came extremely loose on the pulley. This cause the teeth to clang against the block of the motor. Also since it was so loose, the crank angle sensor wasnt reading it correctly.

Use a torque wrench when tightening down the crank bolt. I had an impact wrench set at 140 psi. It then loosened up through the 3 months that I had it on. It had nothing to do with the torque to yeild bolt. So whatever the case, that's it for modding the Focus. I'm completely dedicated to my 240 now. The Focus is just to get around.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, because I was the first one to install them, there was no known information about the damage that could have ensued from this. I openly admit that I got very lucky there isnt more damage, but I'm still not happy with the product. I'll be calling Focus Central Monday to see whats up.

On a side note, now that I have done my first oil change and replaced the FC pulleys with the stock ones, my car starts up and idles at 2K RPM's and then slowly goes down to regular idle speed. Has anyone come across this at all ?
 

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There is a guy near me who has the FC pulley kit on his PZEV and hasn't had a problem with it.

Why didn't you locktite the bolts for the sensor wheel to the pulley?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The sensor wheel to the pulley are bolted together from Focus Central. There shouldnt have been a need for me too. I had the pulleys on for about 2 to 3 months without a single problem. Other than the lights dimming and the AC not being as cold, which I expected, there was absolutely nothing wrong till now.

I'll be there first to admit that I went into the install extremely blind. I'm not ruling out the fact that I ****ed up. However, there is still no reason that the Focus Central pulley should have started to loosen itself like that.
 

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Disturbed, if you re-used the torque to yield bolt then it will loosen over time causing oil to leak onto the pully. This oil could cause the timing ring bolts to loosen. Therefore, I would say that the torque to yield bolt had everything to do with your porblem. I know we all have been kicking this topic around for some time now. But just think how long it took you to realize you were lucky when you installed your pullies.
 

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Disturbed ZX3 said:

On a side note, now that I have done my first oil change and replaced the FC pulleys with the stock ones, my car starts up and idles at 2K RPM's and then slowly goes down to regular idle speed. Has anyone come across this at all ?
Normal. Mine's always done that.
 

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Originally posted by Egz.

Mine's always done that.


As does every car I've ever driven.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, my check engine light came back on today. So I said screw it and decided to bring it into the dealership. I didnt want to risk driving my car from my house to the dealership so I called Road Side Assistance and they came and picked up the car. I followed him there and as he's lowering the car, I'm walking up to him. I ask him if I can just grab my house key off of my keychain and instead of just saying yes, he tells me that he punctured the oil pan. ::Sigh:: Oil's pouring out all over the place. Oh well. So the towing company is replacing that, the warranty is covering the other problem.

Now with my luck some retard of a service guy is gonna try to start the car to pull it into the garage, forgetting that there's no oil, and seize the motor.
 

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Disturbed ZX3 said:
...On a side note, now that I have done my first oil change and replaced the FC pulleys with the stock ones, my car starts up and idles at 2K RPM's and then slowly goes down to regular idle speed. Has anyone come across this at all ?
Mine doesn't do that. Sounds like yours didn't do it either, until you went back to the stock pulleys. This suggests (just a guess on my part) that the computer had some of what they call "learned strategy" i.e. certain variables in the engine control computer are automatically adjusted based on actual driving conditions. This is an easy one. To make the computer "forget" simply disconnect your battery for about 5 minutes. After you do this, be forewarned that it may take several "drive cycles" to completely relearn and be back to normal. A "drive cycle" can mean several different things, but for simplicity let's say it is a trip that is long enough to get the coolant all the way up to normal operating temperature plus speeds that exceed about 50mph.
 
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