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Discussion Starter #1
This is a long one, I apologise in advance.

On a trip to work a haunted trail in VA, our lower dogbone mount completely failed. So at midnight we replaced it, with a new one, and the next day the car is bucking and kicking and bogging down with no power, the last time it did this my MAF sensor was dirty. So I cleaned it again, smoothed out and had enough oomph, it wasn't limiting itself to half throttle and I could get over 70.

That morning's drive home it did the exact same thing again. So I first cleaned it, and it stopped kicking but no power. So I changed it, but the car wasn't running right and I could barely get it out of it's own way. A friend suggested that I may have stretched a ground wire when the engine was shifting around with the bad mount, maybe one for the trans. We checked the ones we could see and they seemed ok. I also noticed that the tumble flap for cyl. 2 or 3 is clacking.

Today, I was going to clean the throttle body and check plugs and wires but I got as far as the throttle body because there was a tan cream slime in the vac tube from the valve cover to the air tube between TB/air box. I pulled the line off the valve cover, more of it. I then noticed my coolant is down and my oil is way overfilled. The oil cap is clean and there is no oil in the reservoir. So somewhere I'm leaking coolant into the oil. The car has never overheated in the 2 years I'd owned it, and the previous owner drove it sparingly. I'm going to check the plugs and coil tomorrow, see if I can find someone to do a compression test on my cylinders. But what are your thoughts ladies and gentlemen?
 

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You pretty much summed it up via compression test/leak down test....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for replying. I doubt it, but could the engine rocking from the motor mount cause coolant to mix? I wouldn't have thought so
 

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Likely leaking or blown head gasket or crack somewhere. They usually do but not mandatory that an overheat has to occur to shell the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I was able to nail my coworker down who has a compression tester. The numbers are as follows:
Cyl. 1- 216
Cyl. 2- 220 then dropped to 215 and held
Cyl. 3- 210
Cyl. 4- 220.

Now, I had a bit of oil in cylinder 4. The coil boot was dry but the plug was coated. I do not have, nor have I had, any misfires. Something else we noticed. The vacuum line from valve cover to the breather tube is blowing air, we both thought it should be pulling air from tube to valve cover, and not the other way around. As a guess, he surmised that maybe the PCV check valve is stuck and therefore building pressure in the engine?
We're both kind of stumped on that one.
I have no tan slime at the oil cap, I've only noticed it at that one vac line. Is that a thing about the PCV valve. I'll pull the intake manifold either tomorrow or Tuesday and see. But it's someplace to start. What are your thoughts ladies and gentlemen? Thank you again for your help.
 

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This is a long one, I apologise in advance.

On a trip to work a haunted trail in VA, our lower dogbone mount completely failed. So at midnight we replaced it, with a new one, and the next day the car is bucking and kicking and bogging down with no power, the last time it did this my MAF sensor was dirty. So I cleaned it again, smoothed out and had enough oomph, it wasn't limiting itself to half throttle and I could get over 70.

That morning's drive home it did the exact same thing again. So I first cleaned it, and it stopped kicking but no power. So I changed it, but the car wasn't running right and I could barely get it out of it's own way. A friend suggested that I may have stretched a ground wire when the engine was shifting around with the bad mount, maybe one for the trans. We checked the ones we could see and they seemed ok. I also noticed that the tumble flap for cyl. 2 or 3 is clacking.

Today, I was going to clean the throttle body and check plugs and wires but I got as far as the throttle body because there was a tan cream slime in the vac tube from the valve cover to the air tube between TB/air box. I pulled the line off the valve cover, more of it. I then noticed my coolant is down and my oil is way overfilled. The oil cap is clean and there is no oil in the reservoir. So somewhere I'm leaking coolant into the oil. The car has never overheated in the 2 years I'd owned it, and the previous owner drove it sparingly. I'm going to check the plugs and coil tomorrow, see if I can find someone to do a compression test on my cylinders. But what are your thoughts ladies and gentlemen?
Id drain the oil and pull the filter and take a careful look at both, running a motor overfull of oil is a problem in itself.

now with that said, when was the last time you looked at your oil level and coolant level?? also look at your oil and see if its a milky color, and i wouldnt hesitate to send off a oil sample to have it evaluated on whats in it.

if your leakdown tests look good , im still willing you got a crack somewhere between the coolant passage and the oil passages.

if your gonna pull the I/M, replace the PCV and the hose and deal with the tumble flaps one way or another.

Good luck

-K
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've drained the oil twice now and filled with fresh oil, both times. And twice it's been over full where I had it. My coolant level (oddly) had not dropped all that much where I had it marked with sharpie on the reservoir tank. I was going to replace the valve after dropping the IM. I had read somewhere to change the valve cover gasket if oil us in the cylinders, but the boot for the C.O.P was dry and clean. Though it looked like oil had baked on, on that spark plug for 4. Above the threads. I was going to just delete the tumble flaps since they seem to be clacking. Thank you for your response.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As an update, I replaced the valve cover gasket, and I have had no more oil draining into the #4 cylinder, also, the only place I'd been seeing the tan slime was at the back of the breather hose on the valve cover, and that's cleared up as well.
Since I'd replaced the PCV valve, my oil level has remained steady; I put 4 new plugs in and ran seafoam through the engine. I'm not completely back to the power I had, but it's apples to oranges from the way it had been running.

I'm now getting a P0172 code: system too rich, bank 1 and a P0191: fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range performance code. It's funny, because before, I was getting a system too lean code bank 1. I know the fuel filter is fairly new, so I'm wondering if the pump assembly is going. I'm going to recheck all the electrical connections and sniff the vac line on the sensor itself. What are your thoughts gentleman?
 
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