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So I followed the ECU tapping guide, had it working for a little bit, but now the splice taps I used basically fell apart, since I am no longer getting a good connection. Should I strip the specific ECU wires, wrap the tach driver wires around each one, then just tape them in place, or what?
 

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Use a pair of pliers and (carefully, with the key off) squeeze the blade of the tap splices so that they get a good connection. The error I see most people make with tap splices is that they don't press hard enough and they barely splice the insulation.
 

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there is no tach signal readible from the ECU. that Pin 48 or whatever that works for zetec folks doesn't work for us duratec people...

that's probably due to the different ECU architecture.... mainly the 2005 or 2003+ PZEV/Duratec's are equipped with CAN-Bus.

Controller Area Network multiplexes many high speed and low-speed signals and operates like a packet driven network. The Tach signal is somewhat encrypted so to speak...

you need a tach driver.

[I could be mistaken, But I am somewhat sure my information is correct]
 

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It did work for a while. But it just eventually got loose, I guess. I do have a tach driver, hooked up to the ECU cable. There is like 1mm of space to work with, though.
 

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Foci_Fosho said:
there is no tach signal readible from the ECU. that Pin 48 or whatever that works for zetec folks doesn't work for us duratec people...

that's probably due to the different ECU architecture.... mainly the 2005 or 2003+ PZEV/Duratec's are equipped with CAN-Bus.

Controller Area Network multiplexes many high speed and low-speed signals and operates like a packet driven network. The Tach signal is somewhat encrypted so to speak...

you need a tach driver.

[I could be mistaken, But I am somewhat sure my information is correct]
He knows, he said he had the tach driver in post #1[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PRTurboZX3 said:
I don't have a duratec, but i install mine from the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and it works great.
I'd rather not have to run wires through the firewall.. hooking it up to the ECU wires worked great until the taps came loose.. I have not tackled this issue yet.. but I'm waiting for a nice weekend day to do this.
 

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never tape or wirenut important connections together. this includes tachs and radio stuff, always solder them together, then wrap with tape. but NO NOT rely on tape to hold the connections together, expecially if its a hot wire. we dont want the car catching on fire do we?
 

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magic2119 said:
never tape or wirenut important connections together. this includes tachs and radio stuff, always solder them together, then wrap with tape. but NO NOT rely on tape to hold the connections together, expecially if its a hot wire. we dont want the car catching on fire do we?
Splice tap:
OK

Wire nut:
NOT OK

There are four benefits to wiring at the ECU (like in my Hot-TO) over wiring it at the CPS.
  1. You don't have to crawl under the car, solder or splice inverted
  2. You don't have to worry about corrosion of a critical connection to your CPS (Especially important where they put salt on the roads in winter)
  3. If you remove your tach driver or take the car in for service, the dealership isn't looking at your hacked-up engine controls, and you can remove the tach driver with little evidence it was ever there.
  4. You don't have to try to find a route through the firewall for the wires.
    [/list=1]

    Trust me, this works. I've had this over a year now with zero problems.

    I work for Ford; I'm an electrician. I'm telling you it's the best way. [thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did use splice taps. I guess I did not crimp the slicer thing down enough.. I was afraid of actually slicing through the wire.
 
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