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GO Green
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Im thinking of going with a synthetic oil next oil change. I get pretty bad gas milage and i wanna see if this will help at all, plus its better for the engine anyway. Im lookin at getting either royal purple or castrol syntec. Opinions on this would be great, and also how much do i have to buy?
 

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4.5 quarts of Mobile 1 Extended Performance, Castrol Syntec or Royal Purple. All are good but vary in price. I usually go with the one that's on sale out of these three.
 

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If I were you, I'd use 5W20 weight...
 

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^ I agree, 5W20 is the Ford recommended grade of oil to be used. I always use MOBIL1 5W30, since 5W20 for Mobil1 is hard to find around here where I live plus i good for summer weather.
 

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GO Green
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Discussion Starter #5
k cool, gonna buy some soon and then get the oil changed, it needs to be done.
 

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I thought it was 10w30. Check you user manual. Mine says 10w30.
 

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5w20 is for us Duratec guys, and it is a PITA to find in my area!
 

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The 5w30 works just fine, you will have NO ill effects at all.
 

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Ravage said:
I thought it was 10w30. Check you user manual. Mine says 10w30.
You might want to check again.
On page 14 of the SVTF suppliment manual, it states to use Motorcraft 5w30.
 

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Since you just have standard bolt on's, I would stick with 5w20.
Use Mobil1, Amsoil or Royal Purple but stay away from Castro Syntec and others that are NOT true full synthetic oils.

Don't forgot to upgrade your oil filter if you planing on going over 5K miles between oil changes.


Regarding you car sucking gas, is your tailpipe/bumper have black residue from the tailpipe/exhaust ?
This would give the indications that you're running rich and may want to swapped out your O2 sensor or clean your MAF.
 

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I threw in Mobil1 5w30 from semi 5w20 just to see if it made any difference in the fuel numbers and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I also put in a fram filter but that was because the dealer was out of stock. That's going to be replaced shortly as I've heard horror stories about them.
Microtonal, what do you mean by upgrading the oil filter? I was planning on using the Motorcraft FL2005, what's better than the ones spec'd for the SVT?
Also, technically any oil that has been through an upgrader is synthetic. So Syntec is a synthetic motor oil as it uses a synthetically derived base (even though it's dino-oil); Mobil 1 and it's ilk use PAO as the base, and get the benefits generally listed for synthetics. The only real reason for switching to syn is if you have cold weather issues, run the engine hard, or for long duration high revs. If it's your daily driver, any dino oil that meets the mfrs API spec is fine.
 

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OH MY GOD AN OIL THREAD!!

[eek]

synthetic 5W-20 is good unless you run an SVT (think about film shear at 7K RPM, go with the book - 5W-30)

BTW I don't make $ buying or selling oil, I make it in engineering SOOOO....
Word of advice (free as always IE your taxes paid for it!!)
Mobil 1 had a big problem some years ago-early '90s, with their aviation grade synthetic (made in same facility as auto grade). Redox chemistry was OFF and any NON viton rubber seals were basically slowly dissolved. MANY airplane engines (piston only) were rebuilt and Mobil paid for it. This was not a "bad batch" it was bad DESIGN and IT HAS LONG BEEN TAKEN CARE OF BUT.......

Amsoil is going through the same thing NOW and has not resolved their chemistry issues. I'm NOT anti capitalism so decide for yourself....

Bottom line for the daily driver??- run an oil analysis via any good oil lab, at your next oil change (of the old oil) and look for the TBN (total base numbers). They will tell anyone MUCH more than the back of any bottle. Anything else is subjective.
 

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If you have run your car for thousands of miles on standard ENGINE oil (YES I'm one of those people), then you really aren't going to see ANY BENEFITS to changing over to synthetic. In fact, you may end up doing more harm than anything if the synthetic doesn't mix with the remnants of non-synthetic left clinging to the internals. Most technicians that I have talked to recommend against synthetic oil if the car has been run for more than a few hundred miles. Just some food for thought.
 

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I use Mobile 1 5w30 every time with a motocraft filter. Never have had any problems. Just remember once you use synthetic, Im pretty sure you cant go back to regular oil. Also if your looking into the extended millage mobile 1, make sure it is certified by the US patrolium agency or whatever they are called. Not all the oils are and I believe the 10,000 mile mobile 1 isnt. I run Mobile 1 0w40 7500 mile extended in my Jeep Liberty CRD and it really pays off for a daily driver and tow rig.
 

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Not sure about Mobil1 but this is what Amsoil had to say about mixing the two.

AMSOIL synthetic motor oils are fully compatible with all petroleum motor oils, and there is no danger in mixing the two. Mixing AMSOIL and petroleum oil, however, is not a recommended as a general practice. Performance and long drain intervals will be sacrificed and the oil should be promptly changed, at maximum, within the next 3,000 miles.
 

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You may safely switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional all you want.
 

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My main point is not that it WILL damage your engine, but that after extesive use of conventional oil there won't be any advantage. Manufacturers can say all they want it won't hurt. But do you think they'd sell oil if they told you it wouldn't help either? I've had discussions about this with 4 Instructors at Baran Institute, all of whom have at LEAST 20 years experience in dealerships. Are you telling me they're wrong just because Amsoil says it won't hurt?

Look, its your money. If you want to spend $9 per quart and get the same performance as 5w-30, be my guest. I have a bridge I want to sell you.
 

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I disagree. Synthetic makes a large difference if you happen to live in a cold climate. One of the very real benefits of a PAO based syn is pour point. At-30 C or colder even 5w30 pours like molasses where stuff like Mobil1 doesn't. limeyrider has it right. If you are that concerned about what the oil is doing to your engine get a Spectrometric Oil Analysis done on it. That way you can at least see what benefit you are getting. Fucus, in normal driving conditions I would agree with you but a good quality synthetic can make a difference in an engine that's worked hard. Look at what most racers use, it's not because they are all sponsered by Mobil or Castrol that they tend to run synthetic. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ is a good place to start.
 
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