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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm tempted to run some Torco SR-1 5W/30 in my 2003 Focus with Zetec DOHC 2.0L engine.
Torco SR-1 4 liters

I ran some Mobil 1 0W/20 Synthetic back in 2007, and it leaked out the valve cover and some other places after some hard driving. So I ran the Motorcraft 5W/20 blended since then with no leaks. Wasn't sure if it was the 0W or the synthetic that caused the leaks.

My original plan was to run Motorcraft 5W/30 Blended Synthetic and add a bottle of Torco MPZ O2, to protect my CAT and pump up the additives.
Torco MPZ O2

But the better protection from the same size molecules of synthetic sounds like the way to go. What was your experience with full synthetic?
 

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I have been running synthetic with no issues. I started with Pennzoil and now I have been running Mobil 1. Both 5w30. No leaks anywhere

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Discussion Starter #3
I have been running synthetic with no issues. I started with Pennzoil and now I have been running Mobil 1. Both 5w30. No leaks anywhere

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
So maybe it was the 0W that caused my leaks.
I'll roll the dice on it and see what happens.
Thanks for the quick response, need to get my order in now for the weekend.
 

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So maybe it was the 0W that caused my leaks.
I'll roll the dice on it and see what happens.
Thanks for the quick response, need to get my order in now for the weekend.
In case you were wondering car has 129k miles on it.

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Discussion Starter #5
In case you were wondering car has 129k miles on it.

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I have 109K, I forgot to think about that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Try some synthetic high mileage
I just bought the Torco SR-1 5W/30 a minute ago.

I don't have any seal leaks, and I'm going to pull the lower oil pan off Sunday and reseal it with Ultra Black RTV and fix that stripped pan screw to seal up the final leak. I've been skeptical of high mileage products with that seal softener chemical and have tried to avoid it. I also just replace the valve cover gasket as well, but might reseal it with Ultra Black and get rid of the clear RTV I put on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow. Just looked that oil up. 13 dollars a qt?
I had a hard time with the price at first.
Motorcraft 5W/30 Syn Blend is $20 at my local Walmart, and 5W/20 Syn Blend is now $30. Gas at the local Chevron is $3.70 for 87 octane and the local Arco is $3.07 for 87.

I was going to do the Motorcraft 5W/30 and get the Torco MPZ O2 additive pack but it worked out to almost the same price. Just spent over $1200 on the car with new tires, engine parts and tools so I figured what the heck on the extra money.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why are you using Torco?
Good question!
I subscribe to DSPORT magazine and live near their shop and they are promoting Driven Engine oil. So I was going to try that product, but it was kind of confusing as to which one to get. I ran it by my friend Mike who has a friend that works at Torco and he gave me his pitch and answered all my questions about oil so I ended up going with Torco SR-1 5W/30, because I liked the additive pack in the SR-1. It's CAT safe, and has a great base synthetic oil. It just seems like the best match for what I'm looking for in my Zetec engine, how I drive, and how often I would like to change it. I'm brutal on my engine, with daily short 1 mile drives never getting the oil up to temp, and several long hard drives to Vegas climbing those steep mountains from 1K to 5K+ in elevation in 100F+ weather.

Yes I know there are many other engine oils on the market that may be the same or better, like ..
  • Pennzoil Platinum synthetic that is actually made from nature gas instead of crude oil and offers same size molecules with a new additive pack.
  • Castro Magnatec that clings to engine metals and doesn't run down back into crankcase, owned by BP.
  • Royal Purple which I heard that BP bought them and changed the base oils to a common version.
  • Driven Engine oils which has some pretty cutting edge oils for GDI engines, low speed pre-ignition.
  • Mobil One with their Annual (20K) oil change claim, proven base oils and Federal approved additive packs.
  • Generic synthetic base oils with smaller/generic federal approved additive packs such as the Walmart brand.
  • And all the car manufactures that now offer their own brand of oil like Toyota, Subaru, etc with their twist on additive packs.
Some of the above oils are very expensive now while others are very reasonable. Like the RP above is sky high in price but what does it really do for your engine in terms of how you drive at that price point? Or the M1 that will void your warranty if you go the 20K.

I did learn that the Mobil One 0W/20 I tried last decade that leaked out everywhere was designed for ULEV Hybrid car engines, little sewing machine engines that just turn an alternator to charge batteries. Basically the 2004+ Toyota Prius, and not the right oil for my engine.
 

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I build , Tune , Dyno hundred of engines each year owning a Shop that rebuilds Engines I see what they look like when they fail , get over heated , abused etc , the high prices oils do not seem to be doing any better job then the over the counter oils , I run Mobile Synthetic and my opinion is people run to low a weight of oil and my opinion is you should be in the 10 to 15 / 30 to 40 for the Avg engine , 15/40 modded and 15/50 if turbocharged

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I build , Tune , Dyno hundred of engines each year owning a Shop that rebuilds Engines I see what they look like when they fail , get over heated , abused etc , the high prices oils do not seem to be doing any better job then the over the counter oils , I run Mobile Synthetic and my opinion is people run to low a weight of oil and my opinion is you should be in the 10 to 15 / 30 to 40 for the Avg engine , 15/40 modded and 15/50 if turbocharged

Tom
I never really got a chance to run my high end oil. It started weeping out of the head gasket under that thermostat housing after 3 minutes so I stopped the engine, and put the Motorcraft in. Subject for another thread or talk about now.

I'm scratching my head on this. Guess I should change the head gasket, something I really want to do anyways over the last 5 years just to make sure I have a good one installed and to take a peak inside the cylinder walls.

I can see your point however. Run that high end oil, think your creating more power and drive the engine harder and break something else. Or wear is wear and it's going to happen anyways, or the head gasket simply fails no matter what oil you run.

In my case the engine was full of rust, and that's why it ran hotter for years. Then I Thermocured the engine 4 months ago and could not believe how much rust came out and it dropped the coolent temp down in the 194F to 204F range. I think the hotter running engine started a chain of events that led me to start taking it more seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm tempted to run some Torco SR-1 5W/30 in my 2003 Focus with Zetec DOHC 2.0L engine.
Torco SR-1 4 liters

I ran some Mobil 1 0W/20 Synthetic back in 2007, and it leaked out the valve cover and some other places after some hard driving. So I ran the Motorcraft 5W/20 blended since then with no leaks. Wasn't sure if it was the 0W or the synthetic that caused the leaks.

My original plan was to run Motorcraft 5W/30 Blended Synthetic and add a bottle of Torco MPZ O2, to protect my CAT and pump up the additives.
Torco MPZ O2

But the better protection from the same size molecules of synthetic sounds like the way to go. What was your experience with full synthetic?
I might as well sum up my experience with the synthetic oil, now that I've had time to reflect on what happened.

I mentioned that I tried Mobile One 0W/20 back in 2010 or so and it leaked out of the engine. The same thing happened with the Torco, so I put the Syn Blend 5W/30 in. So last weekend I took off the lower oil pan and resealed it, and fixed the stripped pan screw. The job came out really nice and now that leak is fixed. But wait, there is one more leak coming from the Cam Shaft sensor, which is where the Torco oil leaked out, ran down the cylinder head and around the head gasket under the coil to the trans and PCV grommet in the front of the engine. I got it wrong thinking that head gasket was weeping, it was really just the path that the oil took. Maybe that little o-ring around the sensor is fried. Tried to get if off last night but I don't have a really short Torx T-40 to get to it, and it sure seems tight.

So the plan is to fix the Cam Shaft sensor leak, and run down any more leaks, and then put the Torco oil back in and give it a test run. I'll try it once and see how I feel about it.
 

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I might as well sum up my experience with the synthetic oil, now that I've had time to reflect on what happened.

I mentioned that I tried Mobile One 0W/20 back in 2010 or so and it leaked out of the engine. The same thing happened with the Torco, so I put the Syn Blend 5W/30 in. So last weekend I took off the lower oil pan and resealed it, and fixed the stripped pan screw. The job came out really nice and now that leak is fixed. But wait, there is one more leak coming from the Cam Shaft sensor, which is where the Torco oil leaked out, ran down the cylinder head and around the head gasket under the coil to the trans and PCV grommet in the front of the engine. I got it wrong thinking that head gasket was weeping, it was really just the path that the oil took. Maybe that little o-ring around the sensor is fried. Tried to get if off last night but I don't have a really short Torx T-40 to get to it, and it sure seems tight.

So the plan is to fix the Cam Shaft sensor leak, and run down any more leaks, and then put the Torco oil back in and give it a test run. I'll try it once and see how I feel about it.
2003 Focus ZTW with 202,800 miles. Run Valvoline 5W20 Full Synthetic for years. No issues.
 

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Been running Mobil 1 5w30 since 80K miles in my 01 Focus with a Zetec.

Car now has 400K mostly highway miles on it.Never an internal engine issue. Small leak around the windage tray (less than a quart between 10K oil change intervals), but hey, 400K miles, it's entitled.

FWIW
 
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