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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a new set of SVT Front-Strut Assemblies and it's overdue to replace the OEMs.

FYI- These are the complete-assembled units from an old Ford-Racing kit.... Got the rears already done now its the fronts turn

So reading past posts about how delicate the SVT Spindles can be... Plus the fact, something like 10-years past, I had wired-brushed the flash-corrosion off the cast spindle and the "square" bolt. Then used semi-gloss rustoleum black paint for corrosion/paint protection.

I did spray some rusty-bolt oil penetrant but how hard is the square-bolt and the clamp/bracket of the cast spindle???

I'm afraid that the bolt could possibly snap in half or cracking the spindle....

I know its a no-no to apply heat
.... but I'm thinking of trying to use one of those HVAC handheld propene torches to "pre-heat" the bolt and bracket section of the spindle. Not cherry hot but some heat above ambient where the hairdryer/heat-gun can't reach. So the bolt will back out & not snap or break the bracket sorta speak.

Any tips or Bad Idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
While I have the SVTF high up on jack-stands & installing new strut assemblies-

I have a set of Prothane "red-poly" front sway bar bushing, Massive RaceTech sway bar end-links [black], and "Alex-the-Machinist" steering-rack bushings too.

6-1152

https://prothane.com/vehicle-applications/vehicle-applications-ford/

MASS'13899.0

MASS'13899.0

Steering Rack Bushings/Delrin

https://www.alexthemachinist.com/collections/2000-2007-focus-parts

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I bought MOOG brand front sway bar end-links with grease-able zuric-fittings but after about 5 years it blew out all the grease; so it's telling me these end-links are done....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
3/4 drive Breaking-bar w/ 3 inch extension
3/4 drive Ratchet -or- 3/8 drive ratchet w/ 3/4 drive adapter
3/4 drive 15mm 6-point socket
3/8 drive 14mm deep socket
Wood stock/piece
3lb hammer
Thin flat-tip screwdrivers [different size small tips]
Brake Parts Cleaner spray can
Penetrating Oil spray can
NEW Front sway-bar end-links

Ramps -or- two lifting jacks
Jack stands

New Strut assemblies [kit I used> M-3000-ZX3A ]
Ford Racing/Ford Performance SVTF Handling Performance Pack


Okay-


So I got the front end of the SVTF in the air and on jack-stands using the subframe.

I had some acetone & brake cleaner which I used to clean off the dirt/grime on the spindle-bolt and surrounding strut shaft.

Afterwards, I went ahead and sprayed "PB-Blaster" on the spindle section around the strut body & spindle-bolt itself.

PB Blaster Spray Can

Think I sprayed two or three times with 5 or 10 minute intervals, then....

I disconnected the ABS sensor at the clip/connector section AND used brake cleaner to remove all the sand & debris. Lay the cable away so it can't be hit or damaged.

14mm socket to disconnect sway bar end-links at both ends.


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With 3/4" drive & 17-1/2 inch Craftsman breaking-bar with a 15mm socket; I was able to break the spindle bolt loose. I put maybe a 3/4 rotation on the bolt & re-sprayed the bolt/spindle area.
I went ahead and "reversed" the bolt back in; to get some oil on the treads. Did this a couple of times [going back & forth]. After reading stories of broken bolts, I took my time working the bolt loose.

With the spindle-bolt removed: I had a leftover piece of 4x4 deck wood block, I gave the spindle "love-taps" with the block & 3lb hammer. Spindle started to separate from the strut.

Sprayed more PB-Blaster on the strut & spindle area and push the spindle back up on the strut. Gave it more love-taps. Went about 5 attempts before I was able to separate the strut & spindle.

Removed the "top" three nuts and with a bit of "wiggling" of the spindle, I was able to slide the old strut assembly out.


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I purchased, years ago, a Ford Racing SVTF kit where the struts/springs are fully-assembled and came with rear shocks/springs on clearance [saved $$] before the big price jump now.

I wiped clean the inner section of the spindle, making sure no sand or debris.
Call me crazy, but I lightly greased the large rubber "hats" and the bottom strut shaft including mounting tab. I also wiped a little grease on the clean inner surface of the spindle mounting point.

Be careful, do not push down to far on the spindle- The brake line hose/tubing is not as long to be stretched or pinched.
I had help from "the-top" to line up the three mounting studs and loosely placed two nuts to hold the strut assembly.

You need to align the "tab" on the strut with the "split" on the spindle [using flat-tip screwdriver] and wiggle abit to slide or position in. It took a couple of tries & with the applied-grease, I got it to line-up and slide in so so.

I took my floor-jack and slowly pushed/lifted the lower control-arm/spindle assembly up to get everything to slide in smoothly. I greased the spindle-bolt up and with a few tries got it through the spindle and passed-thru strut tab to the other end of the spindle.
I gave a slight lift with the jack to put the strut tab directly on the spindle-bolt and tightened with the ratchet. I couldn't find torque specs for this bolt, so I gave the bolt a final 1/4 turn with the breaking-bar.

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Install new end-links.
Using dielectric grease, I put a little on both ends of the ABS connector & clipped in.
Wiped the area off of the excess oil & re-installed the wheel/tire.

-Done-
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's something strange...

I noticed the car seems to seat a tad lower on the driver side.

Did the old finger/gap/tire method and found the driver's side is lower or less of a gap than the passenger side.

Is it possible to loosen the spindle bolt & I guess tap the spindle down any? I looked at the tab that on the bottom of the new strut before installing & doesn't appear to be any "variance".
The tab looks like it lines the spindle & strut assemblies at a pre determined height/distance. No room for any "up-or-down", right?

I wished I had measured the gaps before pulling out the original strut assemblies...
 

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I think you’re correct in their not being much opportunity to leverage any variance by adjusting the knuckle’s height.

Adjusting the knuckle’s position on the spindle would negatively affect the pinch bolt’s ability to slide through the strut tab that slides into the slit on the back of the knuckle.
 

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2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
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If you are in the rust belt it is possible that the front subframe is rusty and sagging.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's not too bad,

I had wired brushed the surface corrosion, used acetone to prep/clean the surface, used paint-primer & Rustoleum Outdoor Semi-gloss black.

But had to been back in 2013 or 2014 though....

I'm going to get back at it again some time soon now.




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